FM Oil Filter Adapter Installation

[170C]

OK, I took the plunge and purchased the adapter this week. Got it yesterday and am going to install this weekend. I am sure open for tips on shortcuts, suggestions, etc.

I already know that when installing mine I will have to mark and file off a small amount of the adapter so it can be threaded into the case due to the engine having an alternator. Any quick suggestions for a source for the DC4 compound? How about the fiber seal, make any difference which way it is installed? Instructions don't address this seals specific orientation, although it probably makes no difference. (Yea I know the crush washer has to be put on in a specific orientation.) I assume that like all engines, by adding a filter I need to add an additional quart of oil to the sump. I normally fill with 7 qts-----should I now go with 8? Finally, suggestions on fiter cutters?

Input will be appreciated. Thanks!

Ole Pokey

[GAHorn]

It's important to torque it to specs, and that will probably require a "crow-foot" or a 1" square socket. Ask your local King Air mechanic to borrow one. They're used a lot on PT-6 engines.
Are you sure you're supposed to grind the adaptor? (Call FM Enterprises in Borger, TX to find out.) I thought the alt. mount is what is supposed to be modified.

[170C]

Bob or whomever the guy is at FM told me both times I talked to him that I would need to file off a small amount of metal on the adapter so I don't guess they have made a mod for alternators. Also they were out of them when I called to order last week and had to wait for add'l ones to be mfg'd so by that I know its not one that has been on the shelf for a while. Should I find out it goes on w/o filing I will advise.

Yea George, I will get a crow's foot from my King Air/ P&W mechanic! Don't happen to know any of those guys unfortunately.

Thanks, Oh, by the way where can I easily get the DC4 compound? Will sources other than aircraft supply houses have it?

Frank

[N1478D]

Bob or whomever the guy is at FM told me both times I talked to him that I would need to file off a small amount of metal on the adapter so I don't guess they have made a mod for alternators. Also they were out of them when I called to order last week and had to wait for add'l ones to be mfg'd so by that I know its not one that has been on the shelf for a while. Should I find out it goes on w/o filing I will advise.

Yea George, I will get a crow's foot from my King Air/ P&W mechanic! Don't happen to know any of those guys unfortunately.

Thanks, Oh, by the way where can I easily get the DC4 compound? Will sources other than aircraft supply houses have it?

Frank

I think Megan has a rabbit's foot, if that will help.

What size crow's foot is it, I can ask the mechanics at GPM to borrow one for the weekend if they have one and are willing. My mechanic wants to borrow one of Megan's keyboards for a while, so I have some leverage working at the moment.

[GAHorn]

A 1" crows-foot is an easily found item. It's the 1" square socket that is best because it won't likely mar the adaptor, and would likely be owned by a Pratt & Whitney mechanic.

Frank, when you change oil, pour in your usual amount, start it and check for leaks. Then after about 20 mins, look at your dipstick and add whatever you wish to bring it up to your favorite level.

(Adding a known qty of oil also lets you check your dipstick for proper calibration.)

Personally, I always start off a new oil change with 8 qts, which with the filter actually tends to measure about 7.5 qts after it's been run and filled up the filter.

[170C]

Thanks to all!

[zero.one.victor]

Frank,as I recall the F&M install instructions state that the alternator case NOT the filter adapter should be relieved if there is any interference. I had to file ever so slightly on mine. Also,save yourself some possible trouble now,when you order the filter adapter from F&M ask to borrow a thread-chaser. It is a big tap that you gently run into the accessory case hole to clean out the threads so that the filter adapter barrel will screw in properly. Measure how far the barrel screws in versus the thickness of the adapter & crush rings so you know that you are gonna get a good crush on the rings.This is all in F&M's instructions.
I usually put in about 7-1/2 quarts,so the dipstick reads about 6-1/2. Much more than that tends to blow out the breather on mine.

Eric

[170C]

Did the installation of the oil filter adapter Sat with relative ease! Was relived to see that although the oil cylinder transfer flange did slightly hit the alternator, I was able to get it installed without having to do any filing off of any metal. Actually the toughest part of the installation is the safety wiring. This brings up a question-------what is the oil filter supposed to be safety wired to? I think I missed something when looking for a lug or other proper place to do this. NOTE: I did find out that the fitting that threads into the oil screen (for the oil temp probe) does have to be used in the filter adapter. You can guess how I found out! The adapter instructions and the oil filter itself both suggest using a bit of Dow-Corning DC4 on the filter gasket. When I went to purchase a tube both the counter salesman and a mechanic both said they had never heard of using DC4 on oil filters???? I purchased it and lo and behold it is for electrical applications! Was told it helps keep moisture out of elec. wiring. Used it anyway.

[zero.one.victor]

1) I use silicone grease on my filter-base gasket.
2) If the adapter barrel rubs on the alternator,even slightly,I think I'd slightly relieve the alt. to eliminate the contact.
3) On mine,I safetied the 1" square drive adapter barrel around the filter adapter body to the oil suction screen. Then safetied the filter itself to the 1" square drive-- it has 2 safety-wire holes.
The filter safety-wire has to be redone every filter change,so pick the more easier accessable location for that safety wire attach.

Eric

[GAHorn]

Yep, Eric's got it exactly correct! (And DC-4 IS silicone grease and is specified by brand-name for Champion oil filter gaskets.)

[170C]

Thanks guys for the input. As it turns out I safetied the adapter itself just as Eric suggested and by happenstance safetied the filter the same way. Sure is a long bit of safety wire. Would be much better if there was something a bit closer to the top of the filter where the "ears" are, but guess there is nothing. I would have thought the adapter itself might have had a lug to safety the filter to. Will look tomorrow and also ask my AI what he thinks.

Eric, the only time the flange on the oil transfer cylinder touched the alternator was when it first started into the oil screen hole. After turning/threading the unit a couple of turns it went past the largest part of the alternator and then has adequate clearence all the way to completion. I did have to turn the filter just a bit off 90 degrees from 6 o'clock (pointing down) to allow clearence between the base of the filter adapter and the engine mount. First flight tomorrow to do a good check out.

[GAHorn]

That all sounds about right, Frank. Except that there is a large square nut (that actually is the central portion of the filter adaptor that screws into the engine) that your oil temp probe threads into. That square nut has two safety-wire holes in it, one to safety itself to the adaptor as you just indicated you did, ...and the other hole is available to safety the filter to.

[170C]

Thanks again for the vrs inputs. I had my AI look at my installation on Sat & he said all looks OK to him. He is doing the 337 & will do a final ck on things when he does my annual in Sept.

I think when it comes time for the 25 hr oil change (yea, I still think I'll change the oil @ 25 hrs----oil is cheap! Not so the oil filter, but still think it is a good idea to change @ 25 hrs due to only flying around 100 hrs a year.) I will safety the filter to the square nut as suggested by George. Because I failed initially to install the oil temp probe fitting in the back of the adapter, I got oil on top of the filter and it is still weeping out. Need to wash it down & reck for possible leak. Filter may still need a slight twist to stop a minor leak.

By the way, for the past several months Sam's has been carrying AeroShell 100W. Here in the Fort Worth area the sales tax brings the cost to $1.79 per quart vs $2.13 at the oil distributor.

Anybody got any source for Champion CH 48108 oil filters? Aircraft Spruce gets $15.45 plus shipping. TexAir locally gets $16.03 each + 8 1/4% sales tax. If one were to purchase 6 filters they go for slightly less and if one were to purchase a case (12) the cost is $14.83 + tax. For me I will only need about 4 per year. Suggestions appreciated.

And yes George, you are correct, the Champion filter box does recommend DC4.

Frank