F&M Oil Filter Installation position?

[fenderjw]

Had an f&M spin on oil filter adapter installed at the last annual by my A&P. He installed it at about the 8:00 o'clock position looking forward from the back of the engine. Problem is that the adapter is loosening from gravity, engine movement, etc. Ideally, I would like for it to hang straight down at the 6:00 o'clock position but the engine mount cross brace gets in the way (C145 Engine). I am thinking of moving it to the 5:00-5:30 position so that the force of gravity pulling down on the heavy end will exert a "tightening" force rather than a "loosening" force as was the case when it was at 8:00 o'clock. The only question is, how much clearance do I need between the filter and the surrounding engine mount and other fixtures? I can get somewhere between a 1/4 inch and a 1/2 inch when located at about the 5:00 o'clock position but I don't get the full 1/2 inch that F&M recommends. At the 5:00 o'clock position, the adapter body is close to the engine mount cross brace and the bottom end of the filter is close to the fuel line fitting on the gascolator. How much clearance do I realistically need?


Anyone care to share your thoughts?

Thanks!
Jim

[lowNslow]

I have mine mounted in the 4-5 o'clock position with no problems.

[canav8]

Had an f&M spin on oil filter adapter installed at the last annual by my A&P. He installed it at about the 8:00 o'clock position looking forward from the back of the engine. Problem is that the adapter is loosening from gravity, engine movement, etc. Ideally, I would like for it to hang straight down at the 6:00 o'clock position but the engine mount cross brace gets in the way (C145 Engine). I am thinking of moving it to the 5:00-5:30 position so that the force of gravity pulling down on the heavy end will exert a "tightening" force rather than a "loosening" force as was the case when it was at 8:00 o'clock. The only question is, how much clearance do I need between the filter and the surrounding engine mount and other fixtures? I can get somewhere between a 1/4 inch and a 1/2 inch when located at about the 5:00 o'clock position but I don't get the full 1/2 inch that F&M recommends. At the 5:00 o'clock position, the adapter body is close to the engine mount cross brace and the bottom end of the filter is close to the fuel line fitting on the gascolator. How much clearance do I realistically need?


Anyone care to share your thoughts?

Thanks!
Jim

Jim it can be installed in any position that is convenient. Most are installed so that it has clearance, then ease of removal. If your adapter is moving then you have two problems. One a new crush gasket is needed and second, the correct torque needs to be placed on the bolt. It can be difficult to get the correct torque because a lot of mechanics use the "It's About Right Method" and do not use a torque wrench. If the adapter is done correctly, they do not move. The biggest problem is that people are to cheap to replace the gasket trying to re tighten after it has been already been exposed to oil. This is one area that due diligence is required or you will have constant problems. Doug

[fenderjw]

Thanks for the info lowNslow and canav8.
That poses another question: I have a new copper crush washer in hand but I was thinking the fiber gasket could be reused. Should I replace it also?

Thanks
Jim

[canav8]

Jim, although it is a common aviation practice to replace all gaskets every time, the thin gasket is usually not the culpret of leaks but I have seen them leak. It is generally the crush gasket that is the suspect. Because the bolt has a one inch square head, most mechanics cannot get normal tools to correctly torque the square head. a custom made socket is usually made. There is a thread in the history on this very topic somewhere. Doug

[lowNslow]

Thanks for the info lowNslow and canav8.
That poses another question: I have a new copper crush washer in hand but I was thinking the fiber gasket could be reused. Should I replace it also?

Thanks
Jim

These filters originally used the copper washers but tended to leak so F&M came out with the fiber gasket. Probably should replace it.

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Square sockets are found as often as hens teeth. Though I know at least 11 members who have fast green sockets and one with specially slow red one. They have them because I made them and donated them to be sold at annual convention auction.

You need a piece of square tube, a old socket to sacrifice. First using a flat file square our the round inside corners of the tube fitting over and getting it as tight as you can on the square head your trying to turn. Then weld the socket to the other end. Overall length should be as short as possible but I've used one as long as 3". Green paint is optional.

[fenderjw]

I happened to have a 1 inch crow's foot wrench that I was planning to use to torque it back down but Just for kicks, I tried my trusty old 1/2 inch drive Craftsman socket set and........yes, they too work on square nuts.

So, 65 foot pounds????? Is the metal on the adapter so soft as to require the 4 sided or 3 sided support of a completely square socket or crows foot?

Since the crow's foot is offset somewhat, will I need to adjust the torque value to equal 65 foot pounds????? WOW, this is getting DEEEEEP!

Thanks for the info.
Jim

[fenderjw]

Wow, thanks for the info.
Jim

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Jim, I would not use a crows foot. To easy to twist of and ruin the square head so no socket will fit nor the crows foot grab any more. I'd think the 12 point socket would be fine but a 4 point would be best. I'm kind of partial to the GREEN myself.

[johneeb]

Jim, If you attach an extension/crows foot (no matter how long) at a 90 degree angle to the handle of your torque wrench, you zero out the effective length of the adapter and also need no correction factor applied.

TorqueFacts.jpg

Arish, what if the value is given in "Newton-Metres"

[johneeb]

Arish,
"Newton-Metres" is such an esoteric subject I cannot recall it being covered when I was in A&P school (50+ years ago). I have a torque wrench that is calibrated in "Newton-Metres" and if it weren't for the fact that it is also calibrated in "Inch lbs." I would be using it for a door stop.

[blueldr]

In making a 1" square socket for an oil filter wrench, if you use a 1/2" eight point square socket, bolt end for the drive end, you will have a wrench that can take a new bite at 45 degrees instead of 90 degrees.

[GAHorn]

Had an f&M spin on oil filter adapter installed at the last annual by my A&P. He installed it at about the 8:00 o'clock position looking forward from the back of the engine. Problem is that the adapter is loosening from gravity, engine movement, etc. Ideally, I would like for it to hang straight down at the 6:00 o'clock position but the engine mount cross brace gets in the way (C145 Engine). I am thinking of moving it to the 5:00-5:30 position so that the force of gravity pulling down on the heavy end will exert a "tightening" force rather than a "loosening" force as was the case when it was at 8:00 o'clock. The only question is, how much clearance do I need between the filter and the surrounding engine mount and other fixtures? I can get somewhere between a 1/4 inch and a 1/2 inch when located at about the 5:00 o'clock position but I don't get the full 1/2 inch that F&M recommends. At the 5:00 o'clock position, the adapter body is close to the engine mount cross brace and the bottom end of the filter is close to the fuel line fitting on the gascolator. How much clearance do I realistically need?


Anyone care to share your thoughts?

Thanks!
Jim

Jim...if you read the FM installation instructions (which are included in the kit and the STC) you will see that 1/2" of clearance must be provided. If you can obtain that in the 5-5:30 position (as you indicate you prefer anyway)...then do that.
<edited by myself>