Building a glove compartment (box)
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- Bruce Fenstermacher
- Posts: 10313
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:24 am
Building a glove compartment (box)
Just realized I never posted the pictures to a article I wrote for the 170 News 4th qtr 2013 with the dimensions to build a glove box. Attached are PDFs of that issue.
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Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
Thanks Bruce. I have this on my to-do list.
1952 170B
N8180A s/n 25032
N8180A s/n 25032
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
Thanks!
That is exactly the data I'm going to need soon.
That is exactly the data I'm going to need soon.
- Bruce Fenstermacher
- Posts: 10313
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:24 am
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
Below are pictures of a door with the hinges broken off which is what they do. David is right the hinges are a bear to make. I've made one. We need someone to get pictures of the hinges and dimensions cause thats about all that works. Mine is currently installed.
In the example there are 3 holes with no measurement. These are not standard holes. In fact they were added on the bottom for a piano hinge and the side for a chain when my glove box was mounted under the hat shelf in the back. I'm glad someone did that otherwise I wouldn't have a glove box either.
The material thickness measured with a mic is .043 so .040 to .045 would work though the thinner material will form easier at the knob. The dimple for the knob is 1/4" deep.
I show the back side so everyone can see there should be fuse holders and the holders and the hinges where spot welded on. I repaired the door on my plane nicely with flush rivets and filler putty. The decal on this one is one I made as a test that matches those found on glove box doors of all years.
In the example there are 3 holes with no measurement. These are not standard holes. In fact they were added on the bottom for a piano hinge and the side for a chain when my glove box was mounted under the hat shelf in the back. I'm glad someone did that otherwise I wouldn't have a glove box either.
The material thickness measured with a mic is .043 so .040 to .045 would work though the thinner material will form easier at the knob. The dimple for the knob is 1/4" deep.
I show the back side so everyone can see there should be fuse holders and the holders and the hinges where spot welded on. I repaired the door on my plane nicely with flush rivets and filler putty. The decal on this one is one I made as a test that matches those found on glove box doors of all years.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
Do know the radius of the dimple?
- Bruce Fenstermacher
- Posts: 10313
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:24 am
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
No, I didn't think to measure it. Well looking at it is is not a perfect round dimple like one would press with a sphere. It is also not a cone but it is more cone than round dimple.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
Here's some info on the door hinge from a scrap door I had laying around. I don't have the other part of the hinge handy.
1952 170B
N8180A s/n 25032
N8180A s/n 25032
- Bruce Fenstermacher
- Posts: 10313
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:24 am
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
And there it is. The holy grail almost. What a shame to find a door with good hinges but the top cut off. Even had the decal.
From the IPC we can see what the missing hinge half looked like. Probably the easiest part to make. On mine I can't remember if I made it or it was on my good door but the two individual hinge brackets where replace by a side of piece of piano hinge that spanned both bracket holes. This piece had all the hinge pin ears remove except that required to hold the hinge pin on each side of the door hinge part. The flat of the piano hinge is bent to the ears are elevated from the mounting structure and I used washers to adjust that spacing to put the door in the correct location.
Here is a quick drawing not to scale what I'm trying to describe.
From the IPC we can see what the missing hinge half looked like. Probably the easiest part to make. On mine I can't remember if I made it or it was on my good door but the two individual hinge brackets where replace by a side of piece of piano hinge that spanned both bracket holes. This piece had all the hinge pin ears remove except that required to hold the hinge pin on each side of the door hinge part. The flat of the piano hinge is bent to the ears are elevated from the mounting structure and I used washers to adjust that spacing to put the door in the correct location.
Here is a quick drawing not to scale what I'm trying to describe.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
http://www.cessna170.com/forums/viewtop ... f4c#p98132
That was a thread talking about the little bend hinge things. I made one from a broken example - They are tedious to make and difficult to get right. A tiny error and the door is cooked or wont close flat.
When I make my door for 95D, I plan to re-think the hinge all together. I want it to open the same so it will be an offset hinge but I dont want to make those little brackets again. And I'm not trying to make it 100% original.
That was a thread talking about the little bend hinge things. I made one from a broken example - They are tedious to make and difficult to get right. A tiny error and the door is cooked or wont close flat.
When I make my door for 95D, I plan to re-think the hinge all together. I want it to open the same so it will be an offset hinge but I dont want to make those little brackets again. And I'm not trying to make it 100% original.
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
I'll try to remove my door this weekend and verify measurements on the door and hinges. Assuming I can get it out without breaking it.
Christine in Boston
N2481D - '52 170B
N2481D - '52 170B
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
I know. Who would do that? This was the original door on 8180A. Someone cut it off to install an old Norco transponder. I was able to find another door from a TIC170A member.Bruce Fenstermacher wrote:And there it is. The holy grail almost. What a shame to find a door with good hinges but the top cut off. Even had the decal.
1952 170B
N8180A s/n 25032
N8180A s/n 25032
- Bruce Fenstermacher
- Posts: 10313
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:24 am
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
Christine. Those screw heads you can see hold the hinge to the structure under the instrument panel. They screw into Tinnerman nuts. Removing them should release the lower door hinges. Unfortunately, at least in my case cause the lower hinges are one piece as I described, the sequence for removing the door is to remove the box first. I'm not sure the original lower hinges will come up through the slots in the box with the box installed.
Another part we need pictured is the spring clip that holds the door closed. Christine almost got a picture of it but her finger is blocking it. Christine you didn't happen to get a shot of the clip did you?
Another part we need pictured is the spring clip that holds the door closed. Christine almost got a picture of it but her finger is blocking it. Christine you didn't happen to get a shot of the clip did you?
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
I don't have a side view of the clip handy right now.Bruce Fenstermacher wrote: Another part we need pictured is the spring clip that holds the door closed. Christine almost got a picture of it but her finger is blocking it. Christine you didn't happen to get a shot of the clip did you?
Christine in Boston
N2481D - '52 170B
N2481D - '52 170B
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
My B model doesn't have the dimple and has a piano hinge, is that not original??
Karl
'53 170B N3158B SN:25400
ASW-20BL
'53 170B N3158B SN:25400
ASW-20BL
Re: Building a glove compartment (box)
The lower half of the hinge on 81D is a bent up piece of aluminum half the size of your thumb. There is one for each hinge.Bruce Fenstermacher wrote:Christine. Those screw heads you can see hold the hinge to the structure under the instrument panel. They screw into Tinnerman nuts. Removing them should release the lower door hinges. Unfortunately, at least in my case cause the lower hinges are one piece as I described, the sequence for removing the door is to remove the box first. I'm not sure the original lower hinges will come up through the slots in the box with the box installed.
Another part we need pictured is the spring clip that holds the door closed. Christine almost got a picture of it but her finger is blocking it. Christine you didn't happen to get a shot of the clip did you?
They will come out by removing that screw but I would recommend against it as I had one seriously wonderful time getting those things in there to properly pivot the door.
Here's a shot of that lower hinge hammered flat (with a broken arm)
The two arms bend up 90 degrees at the relief cuts and the lower portion with the hole is bent 120 or so degrees under. There is also a small piece of aluminum that slips under the hinge pins to keep them pressed into the hooks.
I wish I had taken photos of the original and the one I made up before I installed them but I remember a lot of time trying to get them just right.