TCM training video for cylinders

[Vertical]

I’m seeing references to a training video made by TCM covering the removal and installation of cylinders. It’s noted on form X30653 rev3 (Continental Cylinder Installation ready reference guide).

Here is a link to the guide:
http://nctc.tk/Continenl/Miscellaneous% ... lation.pdf

Does anyone have any familiarity with the video in question? Other detailed resources to study for swapping jugs would be appreciated.

Thanks

[dstates]

Where else but YouTube???

https://youtu.be/chnIMTCHKbA

https://youtu.be/NUkwqqtX5hg

Then for fun... here is a video from Mike Busch. He has a good reputation, although some people are not a fan of his. https://youtu.be/3-3pkRLqoGw

Also, if you have the Real Gaskets pushrod tubes, this is a good video from them... https://youtu.be/fVSzSF4b4sk

[Vertical]

Thanks! I've actually watched all those already. For some reason I was expecting that the official TCM training videos would be a little more modern and with extensive content and details. Those are a pretty quick run through. Appreciate you linking them.

[hilltop170]

More modern?

[GAHorn]

I don’t like to see the crankshaft rotated when the thru-bolts aren’t at proper torque such as they apparently did in the vid. (I worry about main bearings shifting.).

I also do not pull the hyd bodies or deflate them and have never had a problem with that.

[Vertical]

So if you were replacing #4 and #5, you turn crank accordingly, pull jug, replace, re-torque, turn crank, repeat? Or would you pull both, install and torque one, then rotate and install the other?

Thinking out loud -I Wonder if there are through bolts that connect 4 and 5. I need to look into that.

[GAHorn]

Well, when building up an engine from scratch (repair or ovhl) it cannot be avoided, of course. I’m just expressing a paranoia of mine based on stories of spun bearings after cylinder repair. I don’t know if perhaps worn bearings are more susceptible or not... When the clamping pressures of the thru-bolts is relieved it was thought perhaps rotation of the crank moved the mains, which lost their lube-hole alignments. In some cases it resulted in bearing failures, in others it was suspected to have caused a cracked bearing support when the bearing moved out of position and the bolts retorqued may have crushed the bearing-bed.

[c170b53]

You could take the U/S cylinder, cut the base off and now you have a plate to torque up mains. Then take the top of the barrel cut off the head, cut the barrel again two inches below the top. Cut a 1 “ wide by x 2 “ long vertical section out of the side and flare out one end of the barrel. You now have a simple and effective ring compressor. Hopefully you don’t have to replace or use all you barrels

[c170b53]

FFC879F3-DBA7-4677-90C1-39D8E52B75BC.jpeg (43.55 KiB) Viewed 3416 times

Make something like this, if you have spare time.

[Vertical]

Looks great! I’m going to do it!

Wait...how do you get the ring compressor back off once you’ve partially inserted the new piston?

[c170b53]

The slot is for the rod. Actually a barrel with the fins removed is a bit easier to handle. I guess its a bit of work to make but what else can you do with a u/s jug ?

[Vertical]

Oh, yeah. That makes sense.