Floor cleanup

How to keep the Cessna 170 flying and airworthy.

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rmnelson
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2002 4:02 pm

Floor cleanup

Post by rmnelson »

At the last annual I just couldn't stand putting the old dumpy carpet back into 30C. So I removed all of it and threw it away. I then made a template of the floor with freezer paper, transferred the pattern to a new piece of carpet, and cut it out. I'm now ready to install it. (I have FAR 23.853 certification on the carpet.)

My problem is that the previous carpet had a foam back, and was installed with contact cement. How can I remove the bits of foam and glue residue from the floor? I don't want to remove the existing primer if I can avoid it. In some areas (particularly the hard to get to ones) there are pretty good chunks of this stuff, and they seem to really be stuck. I plan to install the new carpet with a few little velcro strips in strategic locations to avoid this problem in the future.

Thanks!
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GAHorn
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removing glue/foam

Post by GAHorn »

If I were you, I'd want to beat up the nut that glued carpet down. MEK or some other solvent will remove the zinc chromate primer. Alcohol might work. Have a fire extinguisher handy. (You can't see alcohol-fed flames so be careful.) Do it outside the hangar.
Even if you have to touch up the primer, get that glue and foam out of there. Foam is only good for absorbing moisture and causing corrosion.
bward
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2002 4:15 pm

Re: removing glue/foam

Post by bward »

gahorn wrote:If I were you, I'd want to beat up the nut that glued carpet down. MEK or some other solvent will remove the zinc chromate primer. Alcohol might work. Have a fire extinguisher handy. (You can't see alcohol-fed flames so be careful.) Do it outside the hangar.
Even if you have to touch up the primer, get that glue and foam out of there. Foam is only good for absorbing moisture and causing corrosion.
You also might try some of the differing "Goo-Off" type products, especially ones that use a citrus base. However, some of these will readily remove the chromate as well. Get the old stuff out/off and then at least touch-up the areas devoid of chromate. You might try kerosene as well with a bit of elbow grease. Also, I'd agree with George that the foam is good for moisture absorption if it is Open-cell type foam. Otherwise Spruce sells a foam of various thicknesses that is rated and is closed cell.
Bryan
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skylking
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Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:17 am

Carpet Pad

Post by skylking »

As long as we are on the subject of carpet padding, let me throw this in. Be very careful if you decide to do your own flame retardant treatment. Don't make the mistake that I did that cost me around $3600. Read the label carefully on the treatment that you choose to see if it's corrosive. After treating my pad myself with a powder that dilutes with water, I found severe corrosion at the first annual which required replacement of most of the floor pans. Sorry, I don't recall the specific name of the product. FYI
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lowNslow
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Re: removing glue/foam

Post by lowNslow »

gahorn wrote:If I were you, I'd want to beat up the nut that glued carpet down. MEK or some other solvent will remove the zinc chromate primer. Alcohol might work. Have a fire extinguisher handy. (You can't see alcohol-fed flames so be careful.) Do it outside the hangar.
Even if you have to touch up the primer, get that glue and foam out of there. Foam is only good for absorbing moisture and causing corrosion.
George, how is your carpet held down? I am embarrassed to say that I still have the original carpet. The rear half is glued, and the forward half has screws along the edge to allow access to inspection holes. I am getting ready to replace the carpet and would like some alternatives. (Or maybe it'll be all right for another 50 years.)
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GAHorn
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Re: removing glue/foam

Post by GAHorn »

George, how is your carpet held down? I am embarrassed to say that I still have the original carpet. The rear half is glued, and the forward half has screws along the edge to allow access to inspection holes. I am getting ready to replace the carpet and would like some alternatives. (Or maybe it'll be all right for another 50 years.)[/quote]

My carpet has foam pad backing integral to it. It is not attached to the floor except by things that naturally hold it in place. Things like the front scuff floorpads (metal plates for pilot/copilot feet), the rear seat, etc. The seat rails keep it from moving around quite naturally. If I were to desire to attach it more firmly (I don't) then I'd use small strips of self-adhesive velcro (hook and loop) on the floor with the counterpart velcro stitched to the carpet underside.
rmnelson
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2002 4:02 pm

re: removing glue/foam

Post by rmnelson »

Thanks for the ideas on glue/foam removal. I hope to get out to the airport in the next few days and take a shot at it.

I bought my carpet at the local carpet store. It is all wool. I sent a sample off and had it tested; it passed and so needs no treatment before use. I found a web site filled with good information on redoing aircraft interiors. I followed the instructions for making a template; the carpet fits beautifully.

http://www.bitchin-stitchin.com/trimtips.htm
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N1478D
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Post by N1478D »

If you need adhesive for say attaching the carpet to the tunnel with all of its curves, Airtex sells aviation approved carpet adhesive that works great. They sell both fitted carpet and by the yard. I bought it by the yard and cut it out myself saving quiet a bit of money. Other than on the tunnel, there is not a need for adhesive.
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
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GAHorn
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adhesive

Post by GAHorn »

The most common adhesive used in aircraft is probably 3-M, 1300L. It can be diluted and/or reactivated with MEK.
BloomerJohn
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Post by BloomerJohn »

To remove old backing, I used an air powered rotary tool with the 3-M Rollock pads that look like porcupine nubbs. Like G. the only place I used any adhesive was on the tunnel; there I used 3M 8088 spray adhesive.
John
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