Sudden Engine Vibration

hilltop170 · Post by **hilltop170** » Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:43 am

AR Dave-
If you're going to use it, just do what it says on the bottle. Don't put it in the oil.

Post by **Bruce Fenstermacher** » Fri Dec 21, 2007 2:58 pm

Dave

I might suggest that if one valve stuck there are others about to do the same. I would recommend scheduling an afternoon cleaning them all.

After you've done the first one the rest get easier. The last 3 will probably go as fast as the first one took.

I made 2 tools to compress the springs. I don't have pictures but made some drawings. The first is a simple flat plate with notches to clear the valve stems. I use 1/4 screws going into the valve cover screw holes to compress the springs down and remove the keepers.

The other tool is more like a commercial valve spring tool. The hook goes around the rocker arm shaft, the 2 flat plates are held tight to the side of the top of the valve spring buy a wing nut and bolt. The drawing doesn't do the tool justice but again if youv'e seen a commercial valve spring tool you will get the idea.

Post by **GAHorn** » Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:07 pm

I have a valve-spring compressor/tool purchased from the chinese tool store. Paid $7. Haven't needed it and would be happy to loan it to you for your "user report".

Here's a link if you want to simply buy one.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=92900

Fri Dec 21, 2007 11:30 pm

George

Have you actually tried to use that tool on a 0-300 cylinder and spring and valve?

I have and have found they don't work well if at all but can't remember just why at this moment. I think it has something to do with not being able to get the fingers engaged far enough down the spring to enable the compressor to compress the spring enough to release the keepers.

Anyway I have one of those compressors and designed my own so I've had some type of problem with it.

lowNslow · Post by **lowNslow** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 12:20 am

N9149A wrote:George

Have you actually tried to use that tool on a 0-300 cylinder and spring and valve?

I was going to ask the same thing.

AR Dave · Post by **AR Dave** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 5:54 pm

I'll go get some MMO in a bit and read the directions, hadn't thought about that. Thanks for the offer on the spring pulling tool - will be watching discussion. Might borrow it between Midyear and Branson. We did used something similiar to what Bruce is showing, but it didn't quit fit the 0300. Thanks for confirming what I was thinking, a saturday spent cleaning all the valve guides might be well spent.

Post by **GAHorn** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:27 pm

lowNslow wrote:
N9149A wrote:George

Have you actually tried to use that tool on a 0-300 cylinder and spring and valve?
I was going to ask the same thing.

OK, Guys.... to repeat.... "Haven't needed it and would be happy to loan it to you for your "user report".

Post by **Bruce Fenstermacher** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 3:27 am

gahorn wrote:OK, Guys.... to repeat.... "Haven't needed it and would be happy to loan it to you for your "user report".

Sorry George. It's amazing how much clearer something is after you read it the second time.

Doesn't change my "report" that a similar one did not work well for me on a 0-300 cylinder, spring and keepers.

HA · Post by HA » Sun Dec 23, 2007 7:56 pm

spring compressor - I have a high tech device that I use. Screw an aye-bolt into one of your rocker screw holes (after removing the rocker cover of course). Stick a big, flat-blade screwdriver through the eyebolt and use that fulcrum to compress the spring with the screwdriver blade. With your free hand (you'll get it without much practice) use a small magnet-on-a-stick to pull the keepers out, and your valve is loose.

reverse process to reinstall. of course, you've got your rope holding the valve in place during all of this. If you have the cyinder off, then plop it onto a cut-down 4x4 held in a vise to hold the valves.

if you want this tool to last a lifetime get a welded eyebolt so it doesn't spring open on you at a bad time.

if you want to get real fancy and avoid the occasional bloodletting, make or find something that has 2 tines (like a fork) that would go on either side of the valve stem. But then it doesn't slide through your eyebolt as easy, whatever you wish.

I've also used a chunk of angle iron with a couple holes drilled in it, one for the screw and one for the screwdriver. But that isn't as easy.

AR Dave · Post by **AR Dave** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:31 pm

Flew about 25 miles south to get plane yesterday evening. Took off from home base with winds 3-5 mph, landed in winds 30 mph. This was in a 1960, 172. Didn't realize the wind was that strong because we did a straight into the wind landing, no pattern. Anyway I was so glad to get out of that 172. I havn't been in them much but it just didn't seem as solid. Now my 170 is on 180 legs, 8.50's tires, and has the V-brace in window, so that might make some difference in the feel. But what really caught my attention was not being able to taxi in the wind. Ya'll know all my flying has been done in taildraggers. My observation though was that the 172 tail, being up in the air when we tried to turn, was a liabitlity. We had to get out and man handle that plane and tie it down immediately. I would have been confident turning and taxing in my 170. That just suprised me because I thought the Tricycle Gear was the answer to windy days! Perhaps I just feel more comfortable with what I'm used too.

Flew back this morning, wheel landed and turned into first taxi, 360 ft from edge of asphalt. Traci became irritated with me when I made her drive back down there to walk it off, but it had to be done. Also did a static runup, which I've never really recorded but hear ya'll discussing, was 2300 rpm. Did I get off the subject? Somehow 170 fever has slipped up on me again. Well I'm off to work in the morning - Happy Holidays to everyone!

170C · Post by **170C** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:54 pm

Now Dave, your going to hurt my 172's feelings

I can understand how you felt in that wind yesterday. I had flown back from E. TX late Friday and didn't want to take time to top off the tanks. Yesterday after lunch I needed to do so and needed to get the oil hot to change it. By the time I taxied up to the other end of the ramp to the fuel pumps (going North with a 30 mph wind from the West) I made a decision that I didn't want to go fly just to heat up the oil. A 5-10 minute runup with the nose into that wind got the oil hot enough to drain and a taxie back South to the hangar gave me all I wanted of that wind. However the whirlebirds were instructing in it. That verticle in a straight tail 172 catches a lot of air in a crosswind even on a taildragger like mine. I know that having that V-Brace makes less noise when the wings are being rocked up and down .

Have a Merry Christmas up in North Pole Land.

PS: Have you set a definite date for Petit Jean 2008?

AR Dave · Post by **AR Dave** » Thu Feb 14, 2008 1:22 am

I'm reading on a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil.

For best results add 4 oz to 10 gallons of gasoline. MM combats internal motor (should read engine) rust and corrosion, lubricates valves, piston rings, and upper cylinder walls, and eliminates valve sticking!

"Added to Crankcase Oils" - 1 quart of MM added to crankcase oils will prevent gum, sludge, varnish, and harmful residues. Will neutralize acid formations and improve viscosity index, protect hydraulic valve lifters, and will reduce harmful effects due to crankcase oil dilution.

"Winter-Proofing other lubricants" - 4 to 8 oz of MM per quart makes winter starting quick and easy.

Good stuff huh?

Post by **GAHorn** » Thu Feb 14, 2008 1:38 am

AR Dave wrote:..."Added to Crankcase Oils" - 1 quart of MM added to crankcase oils will ...

...violate FAR's and result in complete denial of any positive attributes or authorized use in airplanes by Marvel Mystery Oil company.

Seriously... I don't think it will "prevent gum, sludge, varnish, and harmful residues" or any other deposit. I also do not believe it will "fight dilution", but instead will contribute to it. (How can anyone believe a SAE 5 wt solvent will increase viscosity index?) However, it will wash varnish residues off existing static surfaces (where it protected against rust and corrosion) and send it throughout your engine's lubrication system.

Post by **Bruce Fenstermacher** » Thu Feb 14, 2008 2:10 am

Oh Boy. Here we go again.

I like the stuff. It has a cool color and smells nice. These facts I CAN assure you.

doug8082a · Post by **doug8082a** » Thu Feb 14, 2008 2:37 am

I can remember sniffing the can of MMO my Dad had in the shop when I was five... always liked that smell... maybe that accounts for my present fringe-like condition...