Tow Bars

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KG
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Tow Bars

Post by KG »

It seems that most discussions about tow bars for tailwheel airplanes refer to bars that attach to the tailwheel and the plane is pushed or pulled with the tug at the rear. A previous employer of mine had a tow bar for the Beech 18 that was a long V-shaped bar which attached to the main gear and extended forward of the airplane so the tug could be positioned in front of the plane. This allowed the plane to be pushed backwards into a hangar where there wasn't enough room behind the plane for the tug.

I'm faced with that situation, and I expect others are too. I don't have enough room in the hangar to position my "tug" behind the plane.

I just ordered two "Tow lugs - main gear" from Air Repair (as advertised in our quarterly news). I'm hoping these will allow me to mount them and fabricate a bar that I can use to push / pull the plane with my "tug" positioned in front of the plane.

Have any of you used such a tow bar? Or fabricated one? Any suggestions?

This is a picture I copied from the internet to illustrate the type of tow bar I'm thinking of.
towbar.jpg
Thanks! Keith
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DWood
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by DWood »

Keith
I am considering putting an electric winch in the back of my hangar and pull it in.
Dan
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KG
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by KG »

DWood wrote:Keith
I am considering putting an electric winch in the back of my hangar and pull it in.
Dan
HI Dan,
I've thought of that but I don't have a good place to mount a winch. I'm sure I could come up with an anchor of some sort if I decide to go that route. I have a light weight block and tackle with a rope that would work too.

If I can fabricate a tow bar that will work I'll also use it to pull the plane out of the hangar and could tow it around the airport to the wash station, mechanics hangar, etc.

This is probably going to be a winter project to see if I can make something that works well. We'll see...
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DWood
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by DWood »

Keith:
Looks like Brackett might make what you are looking for.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ps/ ... ckett.html
Dan
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by 170C »

Keith, that tow bar from AS looks pretty good, but I am sure you can fabricate one like it for a whole lot less than $710.00 + shipping. I recall moving a Beech 18 in and out of a community hangar at the fbo I worked at while in school. It was so loosey goosey that it allowed the tail of the plane to move around too much on its own. If you change your mind and want a winch, I have one that can easily be mounted to the floor of the hangar, as I have done in several hangars, and I would make you a deal on it since I use a gas powered tug on my plane. Guess you are back with the 170 at MBT?

Frank
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KG
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by KG »

HI Frank! Yes, I'm back! I got in late Saturday, just before the football game TFR took effect. Worst landing I've made in the 170 in a long time. I'm glad you didn't see it. :D

I'll be around next week Tue - Fri...... I'll give you a call next week.

How are you mounting the winch? I'm assuming I shouldn't drill holes in the City's hangar.

I do have my Dad's vise, which is mounted to a pipe with a truck wheel half filled with cement as a base. I've thought of placing it at the back of the hangar and mounting a winch to it. I think it's heavy enough that the airplane would roll before it moved the vise stand.
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GAHorn
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by GAHorn »

I made my own tow-bar using 1-1/2" square tubing and a trailer-hitch-coupling from Tractor Supply. I had also installed the L-Tow brackets and the system works really well with my Lawn Tractor. You'll need to attach them at the hitch end so they'll "hinge" or "Pivot" so the two legs can spread to any width. (Harbor Freight has a D-ring hitch attachment which was perfect for making that hinge by inserting the square tubing in it and welding it.)
DringHitch.jpg
A 1" bolt welded vertically will work well for the spuds. Leave the threads on the bolts to create friction so they won't "pop" up out of the tow brackets.
(The weight of the tow bar also keeps them in place.)

I drilled a hole thru one leg and stuck a rod thru it to create and axle, and installed two 10" wheels on the axle. That way, when not towing an airplane, I can lift one leg onto the axle (which is stuck thru the other leg) and tow it behind the lawn tractor. Zoom in on the pic and you can see those details. If you want I can also take close up pics for you.
click to enlarge, click again to ENLARGE
click to enlarge, click again to ENLARGE
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons. ;)
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KG
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by KG »

Thanks George!

That's exactly what I'm looking for. I like the large wheel to capture and tow the bar without the airplane. Good idea!

I recall the one we used on the Twin Beech as working well. I assume it will take a little practice to master the technique to push it into the hangar without creating extra work for Del Lehman. :D

There is no hurry but if you get a chance to take some close ups of the trailer hitch end of the bar for the details I would appreciate it.

Sounds like a good winter project.

Thanks again! Keith
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GAHorn
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by GAHorn »

Here ya go: as before, click on the once to enlarge then click on them a second time to ENLARGE.
Notice that I ground flats onto one side of the spuds to clear the brake assys. I used two of the D-ring hitches to make the pivot. You can certainly make a pivot much simpler... I just happened to have those two D-ring hitches already in my supplies-box of the hangar and decided to use them for this. Welding a tab and using a simple bolt for a hinge would work just as well.
Next time I build one of these I will not use a trailer ball coupler.... I'll use an open ring... as it's easier to slip over the male hitch on the tractor. (Not as necessary to have things aligned up as well.)
I painted the already-primed square tubing with the yellow hash-marks to make the tow bar more visible. It's an easy thing to trip over in a darkened hangar or ramp.
Attachments
IMAG0780.jpg
IMAG0779.jpg
IMAG0777.jpg
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons. ;)
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KG
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by KG »

Thank you!
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GAHorn
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by GAHorn »

Another note: Do not succumb to the temptation to use ordinary pipe or tubing as it will flex too much under towing pressure. Use square tubing from a metal supply house.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons. ;)
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KG
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by KG »

One more question... approximately how long are the bars on yours? I'm guessing 12 ft or so?
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4583C
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by 4583C »

What gauge tubing?
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KG
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by KG »

I'm planning to go to a local supply house and just take a look at the tubing to decide what I think is strong enough. I see an on-line outlet offers it in various gauges and 3/16 and 1/4 wall thickness. I'm not overly concerned about it being too heavy as it will have wheels so I'm leaning toward a heavier wall thickness. I suppose it would be nice to be light enough to lift into the back of a truck or trailer if I ever need to move it to another location but that wouldn't be done often.

Considering that my list of winter projects is now about three winters long, I might just be daydreaming at this point anyway..... :D
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hilltop170
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Re: Tow Bars

Post by hilltop170 »

Keith-
If you are going to be moving a Twin Beech you might want the 1/4" wall square tubing but for the 170, 3/16" is more than adequate. I was thinking 1-1/2" square tubing with 1/8" wall would be more like it. 10' length would be plenty unless the sticks just happen to come in 12' lengths. I was thinking of cutting a 20' stick in half.
Richard Pulley
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1951 170A, N1715D, s/n 20158, O-300D
Owned from 1973 to 1984.
Bought again in 2006 after 22 years.
It's not for sale!
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