White Paint Yellowed

[MoonlightVFR]

Five years ago I did a paint repair on lower cowl of 170B. White paint highest grade rattle can.

Just noticed under light in hanger that the repainted area has yellowed. Adhesion is still excellent.

Original paint is Dupont enamel. Junior Goodner , Mena ,ARK. Same paint as Fleet/Trucks

I am simply going to mask, sand and respray.

Does the forum have any experiences to share? What brand of rattle can paint is to be preferred?

Would appreciate comments.

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Regular Rust-oleum takes a longgggg longggggg time to dry.

My new favorite rattle can paint is Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Enamel.

7524838_0113_PRO_15oz_HighPerformanceEnamel_Gloss_SafetyBlue.png

I painted my landing gear with this stuff with very little regard for prep on the old paint and it is holding up remarkably well. Best part is it drys to a light touch in 15 minutes, you can work with the parts easily in an hour. Full cure to harness of course is over a few days.

[bagarre]

My whole interior is painted with Rustoleum rattle can.

Even my control yokes are Rustoleum appliance epoxy white.

They even have an aluminum primer that performs well.

It's good stuff, easy to apply, easy to repair and tough enough.

[flyboy122]

If you go to your local auto body supply store they will mix you up auto quality paint and put it in a spray can. It's not really that expensive, especially when compared against the rest of the prep work, etc....

We painted helicopters for years with automotive PPG paints. Worked good. Recently switched to Axalta, but FWIW, Imron (which is now Axalta) was just a heavy truck/commercial vehicle paint.

DEM

[bagarre]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVBvlrjVUtw

[Joe Moilanen]

Krylon, tough stuff, mine hasn't faded in 27 years and is still intact.

Joe

[Kurt Aichele]

Here is something if you already have the paint, but need an application method.
http://store.preval.com/

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Krylon, like many many things chemical, is not the same as it was 27 years ago. It was my go to paint but lately it does not apply reliably. I've had unexplained wrinkling of second coats despite all efforts to eliminate it.

I use the Preval applicators a lot rather than a paint gun. They work well.

[DaveF]

This drives me nuts. Last week I spent an hour at Depot trying to figure out the difference between "High Performance" and regular Rustoleum. Would I use regular on jobs where low performance will suffice? Am I not qualified to use a "Professional" product? They cost about the same, so how do I decide? The Krylon I used on my gear legs is holding up well, maybe I should keep using that, but Depot doesn't sell Krylon and I need some paint now!

And what about the three different kinds of primer? Is self-etching "stops rust!" sufficient, or should I get the kind made just for aluminum? Are any of them really better than the "for professional use only" product I already have?

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Well Dave as I said the difference in the Rust-Oleum products I can tell are the Professional will dry in 15 minutes and the regular 15 days.

[DaveF]

Yeah, but why didn't you tell me that last week?

[Seafeye]

I've used the Caliper paint for years. It holds up almost as good as Powdercoating. And fries fast.
The problem is the limited colors it comes in. White is hard to find.