This stuff is thinnable with MEK (available in qts from any Home Depot or paint store.) Cleans up with MEK also.
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Use the genuine article! Available from Spruce 877-477-7823
PN 05-03623 $59.95
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Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
I think they told you the difference. And I think the difference will be evident when you install it and find that the cheaper one will try to "roll" on you when you install it. Your choice.sea1dww wrote:... They claim that it is the same seal with the flat lip cut off....
I'm wondering what the difference would be between the two? ...Dave
George and Dave-gahorn wrote:I think they told you the difference. And I think the difference will be evident when you install it and find that the cheaper one will try to "roll" on you when you install it. Your choice.sea1dww wrote:... They claim that it is the same seal with the flat lip cut off....
I'm wondering what the difference would be between the two? ...Dave
Hello All,gahorn wrote:I was not suggesting it for a 140/120. (This being a 170-site, and me being a smartazz, I was suggesting it for a 170.)thammer wrote:My 140 still has the original door seal retainer and I don't think this shape will work with it. The retainer is basically a folded over length of aluminum riveted to the door with fold heel to the edge of the door.gahorn wrote:The best door seal / weatherstrip I've found to replace the original is:
Brown Aircraft T-9088 . (Some mfr's call it "Piper" door seal, but don't let that fool you. It's what
Cessna used.)
tye(The doors have different depth at the seal-channels. Also, be aware that later 170's do not utilize the retainer.)
The second link offered should have an appropriate seal for a 140/120.