Good People,
We're starting to look into repainting 50delta this winter and I could use some input on the paint stripper vs bead or media blaster for paint removal.We're considering going back to paint and polish if that has any bearing on which process to use.
Thanks for any & all replys.
Joe..........
Paint stripper or Bead blast???
Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
I'm far from an "expert", but here are some thoughts/ideas.
I know a guy who soda-blasted several Pilatus Porter
carcassas/projects. The results were rather good
(nice, clean aluminum surface when you're done, pressure
wash the soda media out, wait for it to dry, and you're
ready to move on with whatever prime/top-coat process you
want to use). The caveat is that although soda blast
media is far softer than garnet, glass or sand blast
media, from what I've seen, a soda-blasted aluminum
surface will never polish up again (the ultra-thin alclad
layer is simply blasted away). I could be mistaken, but I think
soda-blasting is one of the "kinder" medias you can use.
I've also personally used ground up walnut shell media
to blast aluminum and I'm of the opinion that once this
process is used, it would be difficulut at best to achieve
a highly polished surface.
On to paint strippers. I've tried a number of different
brands (no, I haven't tried them all), but I *can* recommend a product called "Zep". This stuff aint cheap, but stripping paint has got to be one of the most pain in the ass chores to do.... Believe
me when I say cheap / hardware store paint stripper might save
you a few bucks but will definately not save you any time!
Good luck with your project,
Bela P. Havasreti
'54 C-170B N170BP
I know a guy who soda-blasted several Pilatus Porter
carcassas/projects. The results were rather good
(nice, clean aluminum surface when you're done, pressure
wash the soda media out, wait for it to dry, and you're
ready to move on with whatever prime/top-coat process you
want to use). The caveat is that although soda blast
media is far softer than garnet, glass or sand blast
media, from what I've seen, a soda-blasted aluminum
surface will never polish up again (the ultra-thin alclad
layer is simply blasted away). I could be mistaken, but I think
soda-blasting is one of the "kinder" medias you can use.
I've also personally used ground up walnut shell media
to blast aluminum and I'm of the opinion that once this
process is used, it would be difficulut at best to achieve
a highly polished surface.
On to paint strippers. I've tried a number of different
brands (no, I haven't tried them all), but I *can* recommend a product called "Zep". This stuff aint cheap, but stripping paint has got to be one of the most pain in the ass chores to do.... Believe
me when I say cheap / hardware store paint stripper might save
you a few bucks but will definately not save you any time!
Good luck with your project,
Bela P. Havasreti
'54 C-170B N170BP
Stripper is better
I agree with Bela. If you are interested in polishing the plane don't use anything abrassive. Blasting may be faster but it will be hard if not impossible to get a nice mirror polish. Plus you want to preserve as much of the ALCALD as possible for corrosion control.
Zep is a good stripper, but it is still a very very messy job. In addition to the stripper you will need a chemical resisitant paint brush, some wax paper ( to cover the stripper after you have applied it. Helps to keep it in contact with the paint and slow evaporation), something to scrape the paint off of the metal as it starts to lift (a paint stirring stick, and mild scotch brite work well) and lots of soap and water. It is also a good idea to have a bucket of fresh water handy if (I really mean WHEN
) you get some stripper on your skin. It will start to burn right away. Safety goggles and chemical gloves are a MUST.
Another word of caution; make sure you get ALL of the stripper off of the metal. This includes around the rivets and at the seams between two panels. IF you don't you will have a corrosion problem to deal with later. Make sure you keep it off of windows, landing light lenses, tires, and fabric. Good luck.
Patrick Mahaffey
Grand Prairie, TX
Zep is a good stripper, but it is still a very very messy job. In addition to the stripper you will need a chemical resisitant paint brush, some wax paper ( to cover the stripper after you have applied it. Helps to keep it in contact with the paint and slow evaporation), something to scrape the paint off of the metal as it starts to lift (a paint stirring stick, and mild scotch brite work well) and lots of soap and water. It is also a good idea to have a bucket of fresh water handy if (I really mean WHEN
) you get some stripper on your skin. It will start to burn right away. Safety goggles and chemical gloves are a MUST.Another word of caution; make sure you get ALL of the stripper off of the metal. This includes around the rivets and at the seams between two panels. IF you don't you will have a corrosion problem to deal with later. Make sure you keep it off of windows, landing light lenses, tires, and fabric. Good luck.
Patrick Mahaffey
Grand Prairie, TX
Paint Stripping
I enjoyed the 35A paint stripper from Napier Environmental.
US Sales Rep Arthur. 205-266-7365 (and I think 941-629-8151)
It worked well with the newer paints and softened the old chemistry paints. Best to apply and let sit all-day or overnight. Scrape off (plastic putty knife). Using a high-pressure water sprayer worked great on the residual paint and cleaning up.
Available in 5 and 55 gal containers. 5 gal is $112.50 US plus shipping. US customs needs business number or Social Security number on invoice.
This is essentially peroxide and aromatic alcohol. Need protective clothing and good gloves. With the hanger open I did not need a respirator. Rolled up plastic sheets from under aircraft and disposed of.
http://www.removall.com/default.asp
Blasting will damage the AL-Clad and limit a future owners options.
US Sales Rep Arthur. 205-266-7365 (and I think 941-629-8151)
It worked well with the newer paints and softened the old chemistry paints. Best to apply and let sit all-day or overnight. Scrape off (plastic putty knife). Using a high-pressure water sprayer worked great on the residual paint and cleaning up.
Available in 5 and 55 gal containers. 5 gal is $112.50 US plus shipping. US customs needs business number or Social Security number on invoice.
This is essentially peroxide and aromatic alcohol. Need protective clothing and good gloves. With the hanger open I did not need a respirator. Rolled up plastic sheets from under aircraft and disposed of.
http://www.removall.com/default.asp
Blasting will damage the AL-Clad and limit a future owners options.