Have a mission to trailer a 1948 Rag wing project from the northeast 12-15hrs to its new home. Looking for load positioning/tie down tips, tricks and ideas for the mission. Example can I build a coffin box under the bird and stack the rag wings sandwiched with blue 1 1/2” insulation board vs building a sling rack for them to ride on each side of the fuselage?
Rig setup: Silverado 2500HD w/ 25’ Big Tex goose neck. 20’ + 5’ Mega Ramps = 25’ wheel over load deck length. 102” width and a 5k electric wench
Have time to build cradles, crate boxes or whatever might be useful prior to heading up to save onsite time.
Material I have laying around: 2x10x16’s, 4x8 1 1/2” insulation board, carpet, couch cushions, moving blankets…
Pulling wings, lift struts, tail section and prop. Has 6.00x6 tires, Scott tail wheel. Since it is an open trailer, will be looking for a good weather window to reduce road crud/salt.
Respect groups expertise here and appreciate any insights.
1948 Trailer Loading & Hauling
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- Adam.papp10@gmail.com
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1948 Trailer Loading & Hauling
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- johneeb
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Re: 1948 Trailer Loading & Hauling
If you are loading tail first on the trailer be sure to find a way to keep the doors closed besides the aircraft's cabinet hardware door latches. Jiggling the fuselage can cause the doors to open and the wind will surely blow them open and stress the hinges and skin.
John E. Barrett
aka. Johneb
Sent from my "Cray Super Computer"
aka. Johneb
Sent from my "Cray Super Computer"
- Adam.papp10@gmail.com
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Re: 1948 Trailer Loading & Hauling
Thanks John, good tip. Not sure if I’ll do tail first. My gut tells me I should keep the engine weight forward to transfer the weight to the bed of the truck via the gooseneck. Tail first would be a lot easier to wench the bird up but might need to add counter weight in the front of the trailer?
- n2582d
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Re: 1948 Trailer Loading & Hauling
I think the fuselage would have the smoothest ride if the main gear was centered between hitch attach point and the trailer axles. Deflating the tires to 5-10 psi might also help cushion the freeway pothole jolts. I was going to suggest renting a 20’ shipping container if only to keep the “souvenir hunters” away. But that would require removing the engine; my 170B is just short of 20’ from the firewall to the tail end without the tailspring. Carpet padding sponge is what I’ve used when moving wings.
AOPA’s Dec. issue had a short piece on transporting the Husky they groundlooped. They used Whisler Aviation to transport it. I think this was the key paragraph:
AOPA’s Dec. issue had a short piece on transporting the Husky they groundlooped. They used Whisler Aviation to transport it. I think this was the key paragraph:
I’d suggest contacting them or aircraft salvage companies like BAS, Dawson, Wentworth, etc. with any questions you might have.Whisler’s most important tool? Knowledge. During the nine-hour disassembly and loading process, he repeatedly pointed out ways aircraft can be damaged during transport if those doing the work don’t know what to look for—or avoid. Broken wing ribs, bent ailerons, punctured fabric, scratched windows, nicked props, misplaced parts, and many other mistakes can add up to thousands—or tens of thousands—of dollars of additional expense beyond the cost to repair the initial damage.
Gary
- cessnut
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Re: 1948 Trailer Loading & Hauling
I have successfully hauled many airplanes. In fact, I hauled one last week. Your trailer is so beefy that it will not care about how the weight of a 170 is positioned.
The best way I have found to haul wings is to construct a 2x4 framework for each end, kind of like a ladder with the boards flat, if that makes sense. You will be able to stack them under the fuselage. This protects them from each other and from the bed of the trailer. You can fasten through the spar bolt holes to the 2x4s if you want, using screws with rubber hose around the shank.. That helps hold the wings in place since you don't want to be strapping down tight on the ragwings. I have hauled them vertical in slings but I prefer that for enclosed trailers.
I like to put one 2inch strap up and around each main wheel. You're better off fastening the gear down and letting the fuselage do it's thing.
Take more straps than you need, every form of padding you can find, and a roll of quality duct tape.
The best way I have found to haul wings is to construct a 2x4 framework for each end, kind of like a ladder with the boards flat, if that makes sense. You will be able to stack them under the fuselage. This protects them from each other and from the bed of the trailer. You can fasten through the spar bolt holes to the 2x4s if you want, using screws with rubber hose around the shank.. That helps hold the wings in place since you don't want to be strapping down tight on the ragwings. I have hauled them vertical in slings but I prefer that for enclosed trailers.
I like to put one 2inch strap up and around each main wheel. You're better off fastening the gear down and letting the fuselage do it's thing.
Take more straps than you need, every form of padding you can find, and a roll of quality duct tape.
- Adam.papp10@gmail.com
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Re: 1948 Trailer Loading & Hauling
Good info/tips. Anybody have the dimensions of a removed Wing handy? Length, Width and Height (thickness)
- Adam.papp10@gmail.com
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Re: 1948 Trailer Loading & Hauling
Found the measurements in the 1948 C170 Measurements
Thickness is 7 1/2 - 8”
viewtopic.php?p=55654#p55654
Thickness is 7 1/2 - 8”
viewtopic.php?p=55654#p55654
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