Cabin heat with Winterization Kit

[4stripes]

I finally got my Cessna winterization kit installed on my 1952 170B and was happy with the resulting engine parameters. The downside, was the complete loss of cabin heat!
The cabin heat intake is right behind the left cylinder bank intake baffle. The normal ram air is blocked, slowing the airflow to ZERO.
I cut a rectangular hole, to match up with the cowl fins, and opening. I then riveted on a duct to guide the new air opening right up to the cabin air intake. I was careful to not allow much space to let the air "leak"out on its way to the cabin heat intake scoop. A carboard template was easily fabricated within an hour. Once that was done, a thin aluminum copy was cut, and pop riveted to the original winterization plate. The only change to normal cowl removal, is that the winterization plate must be removed before removing the lower cowl.
WOW! My cabin heat has never been better. The air now "blasts" into the cabin, and the front passengers can finally remove their arctic parkas!
I can email photos to assist any cold weather fliers.
Cheers Eric
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[alaskan99669]

I finally got my Cessna winterization kit installed ...
I can email photos to assist any cold weather fliers.
Cheers Eric
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Eric, please e-mail more info / photos. I thought it was just my imagination that the cabin was cooler even though my engine temps were higher after the installation of the winter kit.

[buchanan]

Eric, please e-mail more info / photos to glastar@3rivers.net Thanks, Buck

[Abe]

Eric...No hurry on my end, but could you email me your photos too..... Thanks

[russfarris]

Eric, just checking...your airplane has the stock 1952 cowl and heating system, right? Russ Farris

[pdb]

.
WOW! My cabin heat has never been better. The air now "blasts" into the cabin, and the front passengers can finally remove their arctic parkas!
I can email photos to assist any cold weather fliers.
Cheers Eric
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Eric:

I (pdb@gci.net) would also appreciate any data you can provide .

Thanks

[doug8082a]

Sounds like there is a lot of interest in this... myself included. How about posting the pics here and/or submitting them to the Assoc. for printing in the Fflypaper or 170 News so we can all benefit?

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Here are Eric's pictures.. If you look close you can see the ducting he made to direct air into the heat scope.

With out winterization baffle.

Baffle in place

Side view of ducting.

His stock oil inlet cover.

[doug8082a]

Slick! Thanks for posting those Bruce. Not to split hairs, but that oil cover is stock, but for the '53 & later model years (not the '52 shown in the pics) as the top & bottom edges have the cutouts to fit the late model cowl. The oil cover for the '48-'52 model years had straight edges all around since the cowling did not have anything to interfere with the cover.

I'm not saying it's "wrong", just pointing out the diferences since I know some folks are keen to reproduce these for their aircraft. The late model cover will work on the early model cowls (obviously), but not the other way around.

[4stripes]

Thanks Bruce for posting my pictures!
Thanks Doug for pointing out the oil pan cover differences...(I bought all the plates and covers *** just this fall, not knowing their history).
I'm glad the idea will help other members.
The cabin heat was always anemic prior to this mod. It is stock. My friend has a 1954 model, and the heating system works much better than the 1952 type.
Once the winterization baffle covers the intake, the airflow drops to nothing. I think the later models would have the same problem, as the baffle would cover the heat intake as well.
The air must be directed right into the heat intake. The hardest part was making a thin cardboard template in my freezing cold hangar! I made sure that the air loss was minimized on it's way to the heater scoop.
I was a little sad over cutting a hole in an original plate, but the mod was well worth it!
Cheers Eric

[doug8082a]

Interestingly, even though there are two (slightly) different oil covers, the IPC lists them as having the same p/n

[alaskan99669]

For '53 and later models I took the above idea and modified it for my plane. I bought a 3" ducting elbow which was too long so I shortened it. I also narrowed the one end so it would slide down farther into the heat intake. I built two attaching brackets to secure the elbow in place. Then I cut 1-1/2" out of the winter kit that was blocking air flow into the scoop. I can sure feel that heater working now!

[simatos]

At what temperature is it OK to install these baffles to the cowl intakes???????? I am flying at about 40 degrees and a little more heat into the cabin would be nice G

[alaskan99669]

At what temperature is it OK to install these baffles to the cowl intakes???????? I am flying at about 40 degrees and a little more heat into the cabin would be nice

The winter kits have decals on them that say "Remove above 30 F". But at any temperature if you install a scoop to the heater intake it will increase flow rate. When it gets above 20 degrees I now have to slide the heat selector toward cool.

[GAHorn]

At what temperature is it OK to install these baffles to the cowl intakes???????? I am flying at about 40 degrees and a little more heat into the cabin would be nice G

simatos, the winterization kits (the "baffles" to which you refer) do not improve cabin heating. They interfere with it. Therefore our friends are describing how they worked around that problem by also modifying their cabin heat intakes.