Bleeding Brakes (Cleveland)

Lee · Post by **Lee** » Tue Jun 20, 2006 1:26 am

Any gouge on the best way to bleed Cleveland brakes, particularly if one is doing this solo ... or trying to?

Thanks! R/Lee

mit · Post by **mit** » Tue Jun 20, 2006 1:59 am

Put a rag or paper towel under the master cylinder. take the vent plug out install a AN 816 with a hose that will reach outside into a jar or cup. Hook up your bleeder and pump to your hearts desire. Or if your lazy like me just put rags around the thing and pump a few times look and see if it is coming out, if not pump a few more times, repeat process until it comes out. How's that sound?

Lee · Post by **Lee** » Tue Jun 20, 2006 3:43 am

Sounds good to me ... is it possible/OK to use a pump typr bleeder as found in auto stores? I looked at one in AutoZone and it looks like it ought to work. Spruce has one ... I don't mind spending the money if needed but if I can do it for less, well ... you know the joke about copper wire ... two airline pilots saw a penny on the ground at the same time!

Thanks! Regards, Lee

Post by **GAHorn** » Tue Jun 20, 2006 6:17 am

Pumping fluid into the system from the bottom of the brake caliper is the standard way to do this, but the problem as noted above is overfilling and spillage.
Some guys make their own bleeder/filler contraption with automotive stuff, but I made mine with an new trigger-activated oil can. I filled it with 5606 and used clear plastic hose onto the bleeder valve. Worked great. Overfilling can be dealt with by a hose with a fitting screwed into the maste cyl and leading back out of the cockpit.

IF you simply fill the master cylinders and let it sit overnight, and pump them, and let them sit overnight again, the bubbles usually work their way up to the top anyway, and all is well.

mit · Post by **mit** » Tue Jun 20, 2006 6:18 am

Regular old oil can and a piece clear plasic tubing that just fits over the bleed valve on the brake.

and what George said.

Post by **GAHorn** » Tue Jun 20, 2006 6:22 am

mit wrote:Regular old oil can and a piece clear plasic tubing that just fits over the bleed valve on the brake.

and what George said.

What are you doing up this late!

You and I are typing/entering/editing simultaneously and the post reflects that.

Oh wait. It's not that late in the land of all night day.

mit · Post by **mit** » Tue Jun 20, 2006 6:28 am

gahorn wrote:
mit wrote:Regular old oil can and a piece clear plasic tubing that just fits over the bleed valve on the brake.

and what George said.
What are you doing up this late!
You and I are typing/entering/editing simultaneously and the post reflects that.

Oh wait. It's not that late in the land of all night day.

Ok ok OK so I was working on the plane I still don't have the floats on yet

and I don't have the Annual done

I need a new mechanic!!!

Indopilot · Post by **Indopilot** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 6:08 am

I have made a couple of bleeders for when working solo out of a small garden sprayer, clear vinal tubing and a needle valve. That way I can pump up the sprayer, hook up the tubing, crack the valve and be up top to observe bubbles. Kind of like the little yellow fish on Finding Nemo, if things have been going rough you go nuts when you see bubbles

N170CT · Post by **N170CT** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 8:31 pm

Never tried this though I have thought about it for a long time.....and so I ask:

Has anyone attempted to bleed the clevelands by attaching one end of a long clear plastic tube (FAA Approved/yellow tagged, of course) to the lower fitting on a wheel cylinder and the other end to a plastic funnel/bottle elevated above the master cylinder. Now pouring 5606 into the funnel should allow gravity to do the work and force the fluid through the system to the master cylinder. Actually, if the funnel/bottle is placed at the same level as the master cylinder, there should be no spillage at all or so my understanding of physics suggests. I have seen this done with water by a construction worker to level my deck and it worked very well. Obviously, there is a matter of different viscosity.

Just another of my cheapskate ideas.
Regards,
chuck

Indopilot · Post by **Indopilot** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 9:31 pm

As long as there is fluid flow it would probably work to remove the air. Having a static colume of brake fluid at the same height as the master cylinder I don't see how that would work. As far as no spillage , since there is no seal on the master cylinder cap as well as around the shaft there would still be spillage/ seepage as I would see it. Brian

Post by **GAHorn** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 2:08 am

If there are air bubbles in the fluid lines, then the fluid must be physically moved along with the bubbles until the bubbles reach the master cyl.. Otherwise...it's a long wait for gravity to simply allow the bubbles to be forced upward by the fluid already in the lines ... (no addit'l devices/effort required.) The idea of bleeding the system greatly speeds up an ordinary process...as well as forces bubbles trapped in the calipers up and into the lines where they can migrate up to the master cyl..
Due to viscosity, it's also possible to bleed it like an automotive system, but a continuous supply of fresh fluid must be available to the master cyls. It's much easier to bleed from the bottom, therefore.

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Bleeding Brakes (Cleveland)

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