soundproofing

[Dave Clark]

I don't know why we call it that because you can never get it totally quiet!

I've got the headliner out and have removed some old fiberglass as well as some 1/2" thick rigid foam board that is skinned with aluminum. I don't care for either of these materials.

My research has come up with the black closed cell foam "super soundproofing" at http://www.soundproofing.org . It's FAA approved. I'm thinking of using the 1/2" thickness in most areas.

Any thoughts?

Any other material I should be looking at? What brand or type of contact cement is safe to use?

Thanks

[GAHorn]

3-M, 1300-L is a good adhesive that doesn't absorb water and can be cleaned up or re-activated with MEK.

[N1478D]

AirText sells at least two different thicknesses of soundproofing material. Used the thicker for above the headliner, etc, and the thinner for side panels, etc.

[zero.one.victor]

I might be a little hesitant about gluing the stuff in place. I've heard of moisture being trapped by glued-on insulation,carpet,etc. Is there any way to keep it in place with (double-sided?) tape? That way you could remove it every year at annual,at least the part of it behind the front spar carry-thru that's accessible without pulling out the headliner,and make sure it's dry & corrosion free in there.

Eric

[funseventy]

Most of the glues that are available do not hold up to the heat that builds up on the cabin top. I had a 3M rep here at the office today and we looked through his catalog for temp specs. Spray80 is a spray on contact cement that will be easy to use and holds up to 200 deg F. Most spray adhesives from the hardware store break down at not much over 100F. I am also looking at using the closed cell foam in my 170B.

Good luck, Kelly

[Dave Clark]

I've hearg 3M- 1300L from several suppliers of soundproofing as well as George so I'm off to look for that. I suppose a dark paint job could have a very detrimental affect on the glue. Or the firewall heat. Oh well, gotta use something.

[GAHorn]

3-M 1300L will stand up to the heat from a sun-drenched cabin.
My own airplane is sound proofed with self-adhesive foil-backed foam designed for the purpose and available from Aircraft Spruce 877/477-7823 PN 09-30200. But it's prohibitively expensive at $17.50 per 2-sq. foot sections. The only reason it's completely throughout my cabin area is because it came from someone who had access to tons of it at work (a major airframe mfr.) It's primarily useful for damping sheet-metal and resonant noises. Otherwise you might consider their "Orcotek" fiberglass, moisture resistant blankets at half that price.

[Dave Clark]

George
Yep you've got the best. If I was still in Seattle I could haunt Boeing surplus but those days are gone. In the early days of the store you could find a lot of items for our GA use including sheets of aluminum at great prices.

I think the "super soundproofing sheet" P/N 09-42715 1/2" is what I'm going to use. Half roll lengths direct from the manufacturer gets about 30% off which works out to a little over $250 for 100 square feet. I think it'll work a lot like yours and it's closed cell also. If I have enough left over I'l put it on the floor in front of my workbench. I don't like the idea of fiberglass in the plane because I don't think you could effectively seal out moisture. I'm tied down outside in the NorthWest all summer. Of course I guess it would dry out in Arizona in the Winter, just like its' owner!

I'll be using the 1300L.

[flyguy]

Dave, We wouldn't have as much to worry about if we all lived in Arizona as opposed to the central US or the Pacific northwest. Drier is much better but not available to all of us. I had occasion to be way up under the panel on my '52 back in 1975. The original fiberglass batting had corrosion at each point where there was adhesive applied. I suspect it may have been a combination of rain seeping around the windshield and condensation that induced the moisture but I don't know why the glue would have contributed to the problem but it did.

I thought at the time about alerting the 'friendly feathered aviation' (FAA) but just never got around to it. I chromated the entire surface after removing the corrosion and changed to an airline type foil backed batt.

[Dave Clark]

Since my plane was rebuilt it has been zinc chromated in the wings and fuse back to the rear of the cabin. It had some of the old foam board stuck in place with silicone which didn't corrode it due to the chromate but it also didn't stick it on very well either. The silicone peeled right off the chromate at least. What you experienced is very common. I would try to have a look for that on a prebuy inspection and also get the glass out asap after the purchase of a new plane. Most has been removed by now except for the headliner area in a lot of planes is still there.

[flyguy]

I had to deal with the insulation material in the sidewalls and cabin roof area for a different reason. NO DAM GOOD MEECE! I had related that story a while back. The only corrosion I discovered at that time was over the upper door frame. That was because of the mouse pee and some condensation. The mice had almost completely stripped all the f-glass from the cabin sidewall batts and carried it up into the headliner for a wonderful nest!

[OTIS]

I have another question concerning interior's. I'm looking to repaint my door post, inside door edge and rudder pedals. They are currently a
tan/light brown.

Was there a standard color for interior trim? If so, what was it and where
can I buy some. Thanks in advance. gerry (N8072A - 1952 C170B)

[GAHorn]

The specs for interior/exterior paint was contained in Cessna literature and documents. But there were no actual paint numbers that can be simply ordered from a paint supplier. Who knows what "Tooper Tan" was in your interior, other than to look at what is underlying the upholstery, and taking a chip of it to be mixed at the paint store.
Dupont Imron is easily mixed and matched. Check your local Auto paint store/supplier that handles Imron.