control wheels
Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
I still have not taken the bolts out of my yokes to see where the wear is...too cold and no hangar here. Glad other folks are using JB weld...my shop would grind to a halt without that stuff...I buy the BIG tubes. Now using in on the yoke to control tube joint....hummm....I am tempted. I can see no reason for anyone to ever take the yokes off of the tubes. I have the original yokes in good condition. Perhaps I can indeed clean up the holes, use new AN bolts along with JB weld and be done with play in the joint forever? I have detected, however, some play in the U-joints behind the panel. How much play in this U-joint is OK...and where is a good source for replacement joints?
John, 2734C in Summit Point, WV
- Bill Venohr
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- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 1:42 pm
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I'm curious about that too, Joe. I plan on removing my control wheel shafts for re-chroming soon.
I did get the proper rivets a while back, much cheaper than the usual outrageous price from some outfit in Arizona, but I've forgotten who!
I think they were in Tucson. I'll look around and try to find out...Russ Farris
I did get the proper rivets a while back, much cheaper than the usual outrageous price from some outfit in Arizona, but I've forgotten who!
I think they were in Tucson. I'll look around and try to find out...Russ Farris
All glory is fleeting...
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Russ
It was probably Premier Aviation in Tucson. 520-889-6327 They have the online @ iwantcessnaparts.com . I went there at Christmas when we were down in Tucson at the kids for the holidays. Nice people. If they don't have it it will be there the next day from Cessna stock. You can check out the parts prices online with them but it's impossible to tell online if it's their stock or Cessnas.
It was probably Premier Aviation in Tucson. 520-889-6327 They have the online @ iwantcessnaparts.com . I went there at Christmas when we were down in Tucson at the kids for the holidays. Nice people. If they don't have it it will be there the next day from Cessna stock. You can check out the parts prices online with them but it's impossible to tell online if it's their stock or Cessnas.
Dave
N92CP ("Clark's Plane")
1953 C-180
N92CP ("Clark's Plane")
1953 C-180
The two shafts/yokes that I traded for have very interesting parts in place of rivits. They appear to be aluminum and look like rivits when assembled. But, they are threaded with rivit looking ends and fit very tightly into the 4 holes. One of the heads broke, so I only have 3 now, and have not checked out what is used in the shafts/yokes in the plane yet. Here in Dallas there is an outfit:
Aircraft Supply Company
7204 Parwelk
Dallas, TX 75235
214-637-3598
They specialize in AN-MS-NAS hardware and I will show them these parts and see if they have a source. A friend from Cleburne who rebuilt his 170 found a supplier who had an old stock of the rivits that you are talking about, but do not believe they have any more. He said that even Aircraft Supply did not have them, they usually have everything. I am hoping, and not expecting, that when I remove the yokes in the airplane, I will luckily find the same thing as the two that I traded for.
Aircraft Supply Company
7204 Parwelk
Dallas, TX 75235
214-637-3598
They specialize in AN-MS-NAS hardware and I will show them these parts and see if they have a source. A friend from Cleburne who rebuilt his 170 found a supplier who had an old stock of the rivits that you are talking about, but do not believe they have any more. He said that even Aircraft Supply did not have them, they usually have everything. I am hoping, and not expecting, that when I remove the yokes in the airplane, I will luckily find the same thing as the two that I traded for.
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
- Bill Venohr
- Posts: 90
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 1:42 pm
I also have two "original" 170 control wheels and shafts that I want to refurbish (and get the "Mooney" looking control wheels out). I haven't gone ahead to get the shafts rechromed or refurbish the wheels until I've figured out how to reassemble them correctly (or acceptably). I welcome any input and advice from those who have done this project. Also if anyone has come up with an innovative way to do push-to-talk buttons. I know my mechanic looked my control wheels over pretty hard the last two annuals in light of the Cessna problems with their control wheels. By the way, how hard is it to remove/reinstall?
Bill Venohr
N4044V
Aurora, CO
N4044V
Aurora, CO
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Bill,the original 170 yokes that were in my airplane had a minature PTT button mounted in the center of the yoke,in line with the hollow shaft (tube). The wires went down the inside of the shaft and came out thru a hole in the shaft behind the panel.Very tidy installation,but difficult to hit the PTT switch without taking your hand off the yoke,unless you hand onto the top of the yoke like a motorcycle's handlebars.
I don't care for the standard 170 yokes,to me they're very uncomfortable and awkward,so I installed some early "bow-tie" style yokes from an early 172. I hated to do it,but I used a standard PTT which velcro's onto the yoke,mine's mounted where I can hit it with my thumb. I drilled a hole in the shaft just forward of the yoke and ran the wire inside the shaft,it emerges behind the panel thru a similar hole. I used a ty-wrap to secure the PTT in place (along with the velcro) and another to secure the wire to the socket area of the yoke just aft of where it goes into the shaft. Very tidy.
If yoyu're uncomfortable drilling the shaft,you can just ty-wrap the wire to the shaft adjacent to the yoke,and to the panel adjacent to the teflon ball,then run the wire thru a hole in the panel or just under the panel to where it hooks up. The PTT wire should be curly,like a telephone cord,leave some slack (but not too much!) to allow fore/aft movement of the yoke.
Like I said before,the PTT switch is something that a lot of people just slap in without putting any thought into it,and it shows.
Eric
I don't care for the standard 170 yokes,to me they're very uncomfortable and awkward,so I installed some early "bow-tie" style yokes from an early 172. I hated to do it,but I used a standard PTT which velcro's onto the yoke,mine's mounted where I can hit it with my thumb. I drilled a hole in the shaft just forward of the yoke and ran the wire inside the shaft,it emerges behind the panel thru a similar hole. I used a ty-wrap to secure the PTT in place (along with the velcro) and another to secure the wire to the socket area of the yoke just aft of where it goes into the shaft. Very tidy.
If yoyu're uncomfortable drilling the shaft,you can just ty-wrap the wire to the shaft adjacent to the yoke,and to the panel adjacent to the teflon ball,then run the wire thru a hole in the panel or just under the panel to where it hooks up. The PTT wire should be curly,like a telephone cord,leave some slack (but not too much!) to allow fore/aft movement of the yoke.
Like I said before,the PTT switch is something that a lot of people just slap in without putting any thought into it,and it shows.
Eric
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Joe,they sound like something I saw at the local hardware store,I think they were labelled "post screws". I've seen them used on something,just can't remember exactly what---maybe leather,like where a belt hooks to a (detachable) buckle? Oh,just remembered,it was a rifle sling.N1478D wrote:The two shafts/yokes that I traded for have very interesting parts in place of rivits. They appear to be aluminum and look like rivits when assembled. But, they are threaded with rivit looking ends and fit very tightly into the 4 holes................
Seems like they'd work fine for the yoke,tidier than bolts and nuts,should be plenty strong enough. Just might not be real approved,know what I mean? If ya use them,don't tell George......
Eric
Exactly Eric,zero.one.victor wrote:Joe,they sound like something I saw at the local hardware store,I think they were labelled "post screws". I've seen them used on something,just can't remember exactly what---maybe leather,like where a belt hooks to a (detachable) buckle? Oh,just remembered,it was a rifle sling.N1478D wrote:The two shafts/yokes that I traded for have very interesting parts in place of rivits. They appear to be aluminum and look like rivits when assembled. But, they are threaded with rivit looking ends and fit very tightly into the 4 holes................
Seems like they'd work fine for the yoke,tidier than bolts and nuts,should be plenty strong enough. Just might not be real approved,know what I mean? If ya use them,don't tell George......
Eric
With his slow speed, there is always time to put the signs "DON'T LOOK HERE" at the various locations on the airplane before he arrives.
Do you think he can see past his paradigm?
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
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- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 12:11 am
Joe,there was an assortment of different lengths. They were all threaded for 10-24 or 10-32 or maybe it was 8-32,I can't recall. The post itself is bigger,and threaded internally for the screw. There was an assortment of different length posts,as well as extensions -- a straight piece with male thread on one end and female on the other. I'm sure you could come up with the right length if that's the way you decide to go. I might pursue the rivet idea if it were me,I think the nut & bolt arrangement described by George would be kinda funky looking. Of course,as fast as the A models are compared to the B's,you wouldn't have to look at it for as long as George does!
Eric
Eric