Last minute advice before major overhaul(my first!)

How to keep the Cessna 170 flying and airworthy.

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sanships
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Last minute advice before major overhaul(my first!)

Post by sanships »

Will be sending my O-300A to the USA in two weeks for overhaul and would like to get last minute advice before going ahead. This is the first time I will be doing this since this is my first airplane.

The engine is still the original engine since new with about 1500 hours on it. After trying to get the engine to run after 4 years of inoperation, it just developed leaks and other problems too numerous to be comfortable flying around small islands here in the philippines which airports are far apart in between.

AI would like to know what is an average cost for a good overhaul and what to watch out for. I have contacted the major players and the shops george has recommended and awaiting their reply.

My whole exhaust system is shot, can it be procured be the overhauler? or should I purchase it and send it to the shop for installation.

My mechanics pulled out the cylinders for "spare" in the future just in case, will it affect my overhaul cost? I want brand new cylinders anyway.

Do I have to send my Tach for calibration?
What to ensure on the accessories overhaul?
What shops will accept warranty if I use mogas?
What are my options if my crank or case has damage?
What ad's or upgrades should I look for during overhaul?
Should I the premium packages of major overhaul shops? Is it worth it?

Thanks for the Advice!

Alvin
Alvin Sandoval RPVM Cebu, Philippines
1952 170b, RP-C399, SN. 25287
2001 Robinson R22BII
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GAHorn
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Re: Last minute advice before major overhaul(my first!)

Post by GAHorn »

sanships wrote:Will be sending my O-300A to the USA in two weeks for overhaul and would like to get last minute advice before going ahead. This is the first time I will be doing this since this is my first airplane.

The engine is still the original engine since new with about 1500 hours on it. After trying to get the engine to run after 4 years of inoperation, it just developed leaks and other problems too numerous to be comfortable flying around small islands here in the philippines which airports are far apart in between.

AI would like to know what is an average cost for a good overhaul and what to watch out for. I have contacted the major players and the shops george has recommended and awaiting their reply.

My whole exhaust system is shot, can it be procured be the overhauler? or should I purchase it and send it to the shop for installation.

My mechanics pulled out the cylinders for "spare" in the future just in case, will it affect my overhaul cost? I want brand new cylinders anyway.

Do I have to send my Tach for calibration?
What to ensure on the accessories overhaul?
What shops will accept warranty if I use mogas?
What are my options if my crank or case has damage?
What ad's or upgrades should I look for during overhaul?
Should I the premium packages of major overhaul shops? Is it worth it?

Thanks for the Advice!

Alvin
You should obtain all requests for quotes and warranty directly from the shop ...in writing. No one on the forum can be relied upon to quote for a shop nor can you enforce any warranty promises except those you've obtained in writing directly from the shop.
Buy a new tach. It will therefore reflect the correct total time since rebuild.
Overhaul all the accessories. The shop can arrange that. (mags, gen, starter, and buy a new 5-roller starter clutch from Niagara.
ALL the AD's must be complied with at overhaul. The shop will see to that.
Premium packages are mostly a waste of your money. Tell the shop you want a "new limits" overhaul/rebuild and you should be fine.
The shop will explain your options in case of crankshaft or case damage. Most likely your crank (being a first-run crank) will be fine. At worst, it will probably only need re-grind and nitride. A new cam is a good idea. (At the least re-grind/re-face and nitride your old cam and hydraulic lifter units.)
I'm sorry your mechanics have removed your cylinders. I personally feel that is false economy. My personal choice would have been to overhaul your orginal, first-run cylinders possibly boring them out oversize and using new pistons. If those old cylinders are not worth rebuilding, then what possible future use would they be to you?
If purchasing new cylinders, they would have been worth some money in exchange. (And now the shop must guess at the technique for removing them and the engine condition they would have given information on.)
My personal choice for a shop is Western Skyways in Montrose, Colorado http://www.westernskyways.com/
Cerainly there are other good shops, but Western Skyways has earned my respect. (They can also acquire a complete new exhaust for you, but you might also save a bit of money by purchasing directly from a supplier such as Aerospace Welding http://www.awi-ami.com/ or Knisely (mentioned elsewhere in the forum.)

While you are obtaining a 170 IPC from Spruce, you can also get a C145/O300 Overhaul manual and also a parts manual. They will be helpful to you now and in the future.
Good luck.
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sanships
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Post by sanships »

George, how much should I budget for a typical overhaul? Should I go for ECI or Superior cylinders? Have read the other posts and articles in aviation consumer but would like to hear your opinion.
Thanks!
Alvin Sandoval RPVM Cebu, Philippines
1952 170b, RP-C399, SN. 25287
2001 Robinson R22BII
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GAHorn
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Post by GAHorn »

Alvin, it is really such a simple matter to contact overhaul shops directly to get the correct information on such matters rather than rely upon guesswork. Have you actually looked at the website I offered in my previous post? There is an opportunity there to recieve a direct quote.
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Curtis Brown
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Post by Curtis Brown »

I paid $16,500 for an overhaul with new ECI cylinders and new light weight push button starter. I paid near $1500 for new exhaust.
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sanships
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Post by sanships »

George, I have already contacted the major shops you have suggested and am awaiting all the quotes before I decide. The range of prices is quite a spread from 15k to 23k. I've read all I can at Aviation consumer and the other posts in this forum and others in CPA and AOPA. But since you have direct and specific information, I would like to get your opinion in general costs and guidance. I have now included the cylinders and pistons my mechanics have taken out with the engine shipment, as you adviced, to the overhauler which I must decide on by this week. I will be going to California for christmas and would like to be able to visit the shop to see the progress. With the differences in the quotes I'm getting, it's really confusing what I must do. Thanks for any advice you can give.
Alvin Sandoval RPVM Cebu, Philippines
1952 170b, RP-C399, SN. 25287
2001 Robinson R22BII
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sanships
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Post by sanships »

Curtis, where did you get the overhaul from? and the exhaust system?
Alvin Sandoval RPVM Cebu, Philippines
1952 170b, RP-C399, SN. 25287
2001 Robinson R22BII
Dave Clark
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2002 6:25 pm

Post by Dave Clark »

Alvin

I've built a few engines. (A&P, IA)

It's not that confusing or difficult. Read carefully George's original response to your post. Memorize it. He's right on. Reputable shop, New Limits overhaul. They all understand that. A Service Limits overhaul is where they can put the engine together using parts that are worn near the end of their legal service limits, basically worn out, and is a waste of money. Any large variation in money will come from the quality of the overhaul. In other words, to a point you'll get what you pay for assuming it's a reputable shop.

I also agree with George about the cylinders. Try to use them by having them bored to oversize and if they don't make it consider channel chrome. The main reason we like new cylinders is that most of the time you don't know the total time in service of the cylinders. They have a cycle limit where after several overhauls and thousands of hours they are no longer reliable and are prone to cracking. Especially if they have required welding repairs. That's the first step down the slippery slope. You know the time on yours and they should be just as reliable for the next 1500 hours as they were till now assuming they are properly overhauled. I think it could save you up to $2000.

I prefer steel cylinders however if you will not be flying regularly and especially in your climate Channel Chrome can be a benefit as the cylinder walls will not rust. Of course the rings, camshaft, cam followers, etc. are also prone to rust from even short periods of sitting. They can have problems breaking in in that they can glaze and the rings don't seat. The best method is to run the engine hard, at least 75% power and a lot of people go full throttle. The first hour is especially critical and there should be minimal time at idle. A lot has been written on this. Some are using Nickle plate now and I hear it breaks in easier.
Dave
N92CP ("Clark's Plane")
1953 C-180
JDH
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Post by JDH »

Alvin, while the engine is off, now is the time to look at the firewall blanket and possibly change it (Airtex). Spend time looking at other wiring and cables going through the firewall, now is the best and easiest time to change or update. Clean, inspect and paint the engine mount and maybe change the bushings.
JD
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sanships
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Post by sanships »

JD, I am currently doing a full teardown/ refurbishment of the entire airframe as we have found some corrosion inthe aft portion of the fuselage and wings need some previous patches repaired and reskined. Will have all parts corrosion proofed and reassembled. I will post the this in another subject matter. Thanks!
Alvin Sandoval RPVM Cebu, Philippines
1952 170b, RP-C399, SN. 25287
2001 Robinson R22BII
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