What paint for tail leaf springs?
Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
What paint for tail leaf springs?
After reading all about tail wheel leaf spring failure, I ordered new set for my '54. Looks like it has been 12 years are so since they were replaced. I ordered new parts for my Scott 3200 wheel as well as it is not unlocking in a left turn. I have only had the plane for a month now. Last week I thought the stearing was especially hard due to a cross wind requiring lots of power and brake. After reading posts here on the forum, I thought maybe the wheel needed grease. I jacked up the tail and hand swiveled the wheel. It went to full swivel one way, but not the other way. I greased the fitting but was of no help. I took the tailwheel apart and took a look. The thrust washer with the notch cut in it was not engageing the release pawl. I reassembled the wheel and ordered new parts, Thurst washers, shimmy springs and pawl and spring. (#3,5,7,9, & 18) As long as I was working over the tail, I ordered a set of leaf springs as well. I will take the edge off the spring above the main spring before I install. My question is what paint should I use to paint the leafs? Should all surfaces be painted? I would like them to be white like the ones I have now. I saw a post abut Zinc chromate primer. How should I paint the springs? Thanks GARY N1909C
It's considered not a bad idea to "deburr" the ends of the
springs, as they are typically received as-cut/sheared with
precious little hand-work done to them to remove sharp
edges. A sharp edge can cut into an adjacent spring over
time/use and this tends to create a stress riser (spring
will eventually fail at this point).
I used BMS10-11 (Boeing skydrol resistant primer) and PPG
catalyzed urethane to repaint my new springs, but I'll admit
that this might be a bit on the overkill side... (what can I say....
I had the primer/top-coat on hand so I used it). For what
it's worth, rattle can zinc-chromate primer isn't very durable,
but I suppose it offers what one might call a minimum acceptable
level of corrosion protection.
I'd suggest using a quality epoxy primer (i.e., PPG DP50LF) and
whatever top-coat you'd like to use to match the existing
paintwork.
I primed all surfaces of the springs, but only top-coated them
once the whole shootin' match was assembled.
Bela P. Havasreti
'54 C-170B N170BP
springs, as they are typically received as-cut/sheared with
precious little hand-work done to them to remove sharp
edges. A sharp edge can cut into an adjacent spring over
time/use and this tends to create a stress riser (spring
will eventually fail at this point).
I used BMS10-11 (Boeing skydrol resistant primer) and PPG
catalyzed urethane to repaint my new springs, but I'll admit
that this might be a bit on the overkill side... (what can I say....
I had the primer/top-coat on hand so I used it). For what
it's worth, rattle can zinc-chromate primer isn't very durable,
but I suppose it offers what one might call a minimum acceptable
level of corrosion protection.
I'd suggest using a quality epoxy primer (i.e., PPG DP50LF) and
whatever top-coat you'd like to use to match the existing
paintwork.
I primed all surfaces of the springs, but only top-coated them
once the whole shootin' match was assembled.
Bela P. Havasreti
'54 C-170B N170BP
Thank you for the information on paint. I will look for the primer today as it rainy here in VA today and not a good day to work on the plane. My parts should be here tomorrow and I will take the tail wheel off and bring it home to work in the shop. I don't like being grounded. I wonder if the tail wheel was damaged in a wind storm we had just before the wheel stopped working properly. I came to the plane the next morning the the tail wheel was cocked to one side as the wind had blown it off to the side. The chocks had slipped a little and the tail was not tied as tight as it should be. Hope the new parts I ordered will solve the problem. Thanks again. GARY N1909C
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I used a canned spray paint called Hammerite and put it right on over the black primer that was on the main spring when received from Spruce. Before intalling the mainspring to the rest of the stack, and after the Hammerite had cured, I slathered it with ACS-50 to make sure it worked smoothly with the the smaller leaves in the spring pack.
John, 2734C in Summit Point, WV