The International Cessna^® 170 Association

I just replaced my hoses last year.
Putting some kind of lube on the hoses will save you HOURS of frustration.
Getting the old hoses off was far worse than putting the new hoses on as they were frozen to the tubes off the fuel tanks.
While I was up there, I stuffed some closed cell foam around the hose where it penetrates the airframe. It seemed to help cut down on cold air Drafts last winter. I ended up doing it for everything to include the fuel gauges.

I imagine this will be much more difficult with the headliner installed.

When I changed my vent line hoses the most difficult thing was getting the old hoses off. They were the original ones installed in 1955/56 and were hard as could be. Had to cut them with a serrated kitchen knife. No room to work in the opening. My 56 172 may have had a different vent line setup since the fuel tank vent is on the top of the left fuel tank and thus the vent line going across the cabin by the windshield is a solid piece rather than connecting to a center fuglage roof. Did not have to remove the headliner. Once is enough

Thanks Guys!!

For Pt 91 US operators buying aircraft quality supplies which meet standard or mil specs... don't bother. But if you're a foreign operator...you'll want the certification to prove eligibility.

The deed is done, it wasn't any fun and its a good thing I decided to replace all 4. It still beat working on a front wheel drive car!!! Plus I was able to shed the intercom speaker, not much weight but it counts!! Here is a pic of the two old center tube lines.. Now to button everything back up!!

What's holding the speaker frame to the top of the cabin if you removed the speaker?! BTW if you have an original speaker, don't get rid of it no matter the condition. They can be rebuilt and are a hard to find item.

The original speaker had a couple screws through the top of the cabin.

jmurtap wrote:The deed is done, it wasn't any fun and its a good thing I decided to replace all 4. It still beat working on a front wheel drive car!!! Plus I was able to shed the intercom speaker, not much weight but it counts!! Here is a pic of the two old center tube lines.. Now to button everything back up!!

IMG_1560.JPG

I feel your pain Jason. I just got through pulling both tanks, replacing all the gaskets and vent hoses, cleaning and painting the fuel tank bays and replacing all the tank cushion strips. It's amazing what collects in there after 60 some years.

Bruce Fenstermacher wrote:What's holding the speaker frame to the top of the cabin if you removed the speaker?! BTW if you have an original speaker, don't get rid of it no matter the condition. They can be rebuilt and are a hard to find item.

It is in rough shape, I don't know if its original or not judging by the condition I would assume so.

edbooth wrote:

jmurtap wrote:The deed is done, it wasn't any fun and its a good thing I decided to replace all 4. It still beat working on a front wheel drive car!!! Plus I was able to shed the intercom speaker, not much weight but it counts!! Here is a pic of the two old center tube lines.. Now to button everything back up!!

IMG_1560.JPG

I feel your pain Jason. I just got through pulling both tanks, replacing all the gaskets and vent hoses, cleaning and painting the fuel tank bays and replacing all the tank cushion strips. It's amazing what collects in there after 60 some years.

I can only imagine Ed!! Hopefully I wont have to find out anytime soon!!!

jmurtap wrote: It is in rough shape, I don't know if its original or not judging by the condition I would assume so.

If it fit the frame you left in the airplane, had two holes drilled and tapped into the speaker magnet with screws through the top skin to hold it in place, it is likely to be original.

And as long as you have the metal frame and magnets, it can be rebuilt.

Without a speaker, how are you holding that frame to the top of the cabin. That frame also holds your headliner up. In other words the speaker is an intrical part needed to hang the headliner.

Jason, that's an easy repair with clear RTV silicone. Smear glue all along the tears, front and back. Apply multiple thin coats. Make patches from heavy paper. I've repaired a few airplane speakers this way, and it really works. Not as well as sending it to a guy who does speaker re-coning, but it's cheap and easy.

The frame is riveted on to the stringers along the roof, I belive you can see them in the photo. The speaker did mount with 2 bolts in the speaker. I would venture to say it is original then. Can't imagine I'll ever do anything with it. Idk I'll rescue it from the trash and save it just in case.

Jason,

If you don't want that speaker, I'll take it and pay the shipping. Early in my ownership of '98C, a mouse ate the cone completely out of mine, and I threw mine away before I knew it was repairable. I had to glue a hardwood block to the back of an old stereo speaker, then use wood screws through the original mounting holes in the roof to hold the speaker, just to have a place to mount the overhead instrument lights.

My speaker frame was not riveted such as yours is and is only held into place with the speaker. I've always thought this is the way it was installed from the factory.

I think someone riveted yours. I could be wrong. What have others found?