The International Cessna^® 170 Association

But it's not likely to be locked in flight. One your not applying the brake. Two the offending brake lever tab thingy is, or is unlikely no where near the firewall for it to be engaged.

I think a lot of this is due to full pedal control movement after or near touch down on aircraft that, over time, have not had the rudder control cables adjusted properly. That is right, the rudder control cable adjustment sets the distance of the pedals from the firewall.

Think how many cables have been adjusted and the adjuster not making that connection and allowing the pedals to close to the firewall.

Say what?

In my case, the parking brake was partially set on short final in gusty crosswinds.

since removed.

I had this hang up on park brakes and was very concerned about disconnecting my park brake. I was informed by our Australian authorities that is was a major modification. After reading this web site about park brakes I came to the conclusion that some body [pervious owner ]had some fore sight. I have a cable that runs down to each piston and via the hand brake handle pulls both Pistons down with the handle maintaining the tension on the cables. To put the park brake on depress both pedals and pull on the handle until it locks. This system is similar to other Cessna models. Easy enough to get recertified as a mod. As it is fitted to other similar Cessna models. However the rudder pedals must be rigged correctly regardless of park brake installed. This including sound proofing being clear of all controls.
It's my belief the park brake set up come off a Cessna 180/185

So now I can park my BLUE aircraft sideways , uphill ,down hill any way I want to except upside down. Getting out of the aircraft is a little difficult , leaves foot prints on the wing.

In retrospect, I didn't need to remove the parking brake but adjust the rudder cables.
In the end, I did both.
After taking a good look at the brake system, I came to the conclusion that it would work fine so long as everything was adjusted and functioning fine. But if it didn't due to lack of maintenance or a broken spring, you wouldnt know until wheels down.

I'm putting a hydraulic lock in '95D. Someone somewhere on this website posted a really really nice 337 that I intend to borrow.

I just installed new brakes on my 170b with new lower Aeroquip lines . when i was looking at the master cylinders i see that my Parking brake tabs, springs are still there(cable has long been removed). after reading about this on the forum, i understand this is still a problem. can i remove those tabs without complete disassembly? i'm sure many of you have done this before.
also trying to find a few extra vented 1/8" NPT plugs just in case!! any ideas on where?

You need to disconnect them from the rudder pedals so you can lift the tabs off the rods.
The tight spaces make it a fun project but you already know that from replacing the hoses.

it might be worth taking things apart to check for cracks where the lower brackets (look like slices of hat section) attach to the fuselage.
Mine were pretty bent from years of brake usage.

http://www.cessna170.org/forums/viewtop ... e+brackets

Vented caps can be made by drilling a weep hole in an appropriately sized plug which can be either plastic or metal.

Bruce Fenstermacher wrote:Vented caps can be made by drilling a weep hole in an appropriately sized plug which can be either plastic or metal.

This plug, p/n 0541139, is over $36 from Cessna. Unbelievable. For what it's worth, the Service Manual gives specific instructions on pg. 5-37 for drilling this 1/8" NPT plug.

Here's a link to a cheaper plug that will have to be drilled.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/h ... kkey=10833

I have to think that True Value has a nylon plug that will be perfectly satisfactory if drilled as well.

Maybe Fastenal too.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11130579

Or these for 26 cents.

I have those pretty red plastic plugs Gary pictured. Mine have a slot cut into them so they can be removed with a screw driver. Of course there is also a weep hole drilled as well.

Swixtt, to answer your first question, you do not need to completely disassemble the brake master cylinders to remove the tabs and associated hardware (e.g., spring). But you do need to separate the top of the brake shaft from the brake pedal and remove the clevis and nut from the end of the shaft to slide the tab up off the shaft. Also, you need to remove the screw holding the tab to the top of the master cylinder. It's not difficult. Like yours, the parking brake cables were removed from my plane but the tabs were still on the master cylinders. It took me only about 5-10 minutes to remove the tabs and re-connect the shafts to the pedals.

If you buy the aluminum plugs, use a drill press to carefully drill the small vent holes. Don't try to hand drill them. It's VERY easy to break the small drill bit when drilling those holes. I know from experience. I ended up drilling and using the 26 cent red plastic ones from Spruce that Gary identified. They are dirt cheap, easy to drill and work great. Plus, you can easily see them when you drop them.

Thanks guys, i'll be getting a few of the plastic ones from Spruce on my next order.

When that top tab is removed should i put the machine screw back into the top the of the master cylinder?