The International Cessna^® 170 Association

jrenwick wrote: George, by the time you're done with all this, it probably would have been easier to buy a 172 and just stick a tailwheel on it!

Oh John, that's just hurtful....although, just funny .....Brad

Robert,
your not wrong....nut plates are going to take two more (Holes) and rivets per instillation.....But also for a non structural instillation (ie wing root fairings) you can use riv-nuts....which give you the same structural format as the rivets you just removed....and allow access to the root in the future....which makes sense to me...Brad[/quote]

I thought about rivnuts, but then the fairing would not lay flush against the skin like it would with rivnuts.

learaviator wrote: I thought about rivnuts, but then the fairing would not lay flush against the skin like it would with rivnuts.

Right, but you can also introduce chafing strips along the outside (IE small rubber welting)....will fix that problem.....just my thoughts......I like the idea of being able to remove the fairings......Brad

Hey guys, take it easy on us straight tails with tail wheels

I used to go with a girl that had a severe sunken cheeks condition on her butt. Reminded me of a C-172 every time I squeezed 'em! I really prefer a nicely rounded tail like a C-170. (Actually, I wouldn't have given her a second look, or squeeze, except for her bank account and liquor store.)

Brad Brady wrote:

jrenwick wrote: George, by the time you're done with all this, it probably would have been easier to buy a 172 and just stick a tailwheel on it!

Oh John, that's just hurtful....although, just funny .....Brad

But then it'd have straight tail! And THAT wouldn't look original!

Boy you guys are tough on us poor ole straight tail's Especially if they are green

Brad Brady wrote:

learaviator wrote: I thought about rivnuts, but then the fairing would not lay flush against the skin like it would with rivnuts.

Right, but you can also introduce chafing strips along the outside (IE small rubber welting)....will fix that problem.....just my thoughts......I like the idea of being able to remove the fairings......Brad

Hey Brad that is a good idea, I had not thought about that. It would sure be a lot easier to do, and I would not have to remove the headliner. I will investigate some rubber welting, I might actually have some!! Thanks for that!!

learaviator wrote:Yeah, I am afraid a baggage door is in my future. I have not used my baggage area yet, heck I haven't even flown the plane since I brought it home. But I can already tell that reaching over that back seat will get old, at least for me.

Back seat? What is this back seat of which you speak?

170C wrote:Boy you guys are tough on us poor ole straight tail's Especially if they are green

I certainly wasn't meaning to cast any asparagus on straight tails. I was just thinking that if George were to start over again with a 172 TW conversion, he might end up with a more original aircraft than where he's heading!

John

Hey John, no offence taken I was just kidding If we 172/175/180/185 types didn't catch some friendly grief from you guys once in a while we'd think you didn't love us any more At least some us have the training wheel at the proper end of the plane even with those straight tails Besides, we need to accept a bit of ribbing to give George some relief since he is our resident grief/ribbing sink Original baggage door, starboard landing lights and all original thing s:lol: Sorry George, I have to take my shots when I can----just jealous I don't have them on mine

futr_alaskaflyer wrote:

learaviator wrote:Yeah, I am afraid a baggage door is in my future. I have not used my baggage area yet, heck I haven't even flown the plane since I brought it home. But I can already tell that reaching over that back seat will get old, at least for me.

Back seat? What is this back seat of which you speak?

Thanks for shocking me back to reality. Although I may have to have it back in for a bit, still have daughters at home. But other than that, yes it will probably be out right after there departure.

blueldr wrote:I used to go with a girl that had a severe sunken cheeks condition on her butt. Reminded me of a C-172 every time I squeezed 'em! I really prefer a nicely rounded tail like a C-170. (Actually, I wouldn't have given her a second look, or squeeze, except for her bank account and liquor store.)

Wow, she must have had other, uhm, talents. What kind of airplane did she own?


Just to clarify, you guys are talking about the trailing edge fairings in the inboard aft portion of the wing, right? On my ship, the fairings that cover the leading edge, window and wing bottom are already held in place by sheet metal screws and CSK washers (just like on every other single engine Cessna that I can remember.)

Oh, how our minds wander................back to the original post;

What I would recommend and what I have had the repair shop do on wing root trailing edge fairings is to remove the fairings, prep and prime under the fairings and rivit back in place. That takes care of any future corrosion. Rivnuts tend to loose their grip and spin in place if there is any corrosion on the threads. I would not use rivnuts on anything I ever intended to remove in the future. PK screws and flat Tinnerman nuts would be another option to make them removable but would require working behind the headliner.

While the fairings were off, I also had the repair shop crimp a drain slot in the rivit flange at the lowest point in each fairing so any water trapped inside the fairing would drain out. I might be more inclined to make the fairings removable if there was a likely chance they would fill up with anything. When mine were removed, they were essentially clean inside and the plane has sat outside most of the time since 1973.

hilltop170 wrote: Rivnuts tend to loose their grip and spin in place if there is any corrosion on the threads. I would not use rivnuts on anything I ever intended to remove in the future.

Using keyed rivnuts reduces the tendency of the rinuts spinning when removing the screws. If one is just doing a few a small file will work for cutting the key slot. Most shops should have this tool for quickly cutting the key slot: http://www.cardinalcomponents.com/image ... 20Tool.pdf Dipping the screw in zinc chromate before installation will reduce the chance of corrosion. I agree with you though--on a fairing that one intends to remove on every inspection a rivnut is not a good solution. They were originally designed by B.F.Goodrich for the installation of deice boots.