The International Cessna^® 170 Association

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Miles wrote: I'll go with the "single coil spring washer", AKA "split lock washer", technically known as MS35338.

Miles, most of the exterior nuts use the single coil spring washers, at least thats what is shown in the IPC and what was used on my engine at Lycon.

By the way there was an article in the latest "Light Plane Maintenance" (Feb '06) about running a rebuilt engine in sans a test cell. If you haven't seen it is kinda interesting.

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Folks...back to the paint discussion for a moment. I painted my rusted valve covers after sandblasting and the darned things promptly rusted again . Any suggestions other than chroming these things???
regards,
chuck

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We are snailing along getting our Lyc 180 repaired and ready to install. One of the things I did recently was powder coat the rocker covers, intake tubes and push rod housings to match our paint colors using the shops Eastwood Hot Coat Powder coating kit. This do it your self kit costs $100.00 according to their catalog. 8 ounce paint powder bottles cost $9.00 in a host of colors. I set up an old oven to bake the powder( 400 degrees) and you need a regulator that will supply about 8 lbs of air pressure froma bottle or compressor. Looks better longer I believe.
They have a pretty good online site http://www.eastwood.com. Anyway it worked good for us . Brian

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Yep Miles no doubt if you do another engine build up a month from now you be able to do it in half the time assuming you pocket book would stand it.

Hate to say this but the two typs of sealant used together doesn't sound right. I'm not sure I'd have done that without confirming it with an expert which I'm not. I have no doubt the SIL says this I just hope it's not a typo.

Anybody with first hand knowledge of this?

Miles,

Great progress!

What is the lubricant you used on the Cam lobes and Cam followers?

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The only case sealer I've used along with the silk thread in the last ten years or so is Loctite 515 or Yamabond (thin) available at Yamaha outboard shops. Both are similar products and set up in the absence of air. Gives you a nice working time. Since then never had any case leaks. Mixing the Permatex in there is questionable in my opinion.

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I'll bet it was a curious day at the beer-joint the day the Continental guys on the assembly line got together and discussed their error when they assembled a bunch of engines using two different gasket-products, ... and swore to keep it a secret amongst themselves until they learned the results from future warranty claims.

Miles,
I had a similar conversation with a TCM tech rep prior to the assembly of my engine last year regarding typo's, vague instructions, sealants, etc. My call to TCM was prompted by an earlier phone conversation with a well-known engine overhauler who told me the best sealant on the case halves was the blue colored RTV and sold at auto parts stores. I don't remember it's name. The TCM rep was quite adament about following the SB which specifically lists the two sealants to be used on the case halves. I have had no problems with mine to date one year and 85 hrs.

Steve

One thing to consider, especially on case-halves, is fretting....the "working" of the case halves against each other over the years/hours of operation in which thermal expansion/contraction, vibration, and stretching/pulling/pushing of cylinders/rods/pistons etc.. This causes a great deal of stress at the case halves.
For many years, TCM recommended only Hylomar....a Rolls-Royce product, which resembles the blue RTV found at automotive stores....but is NOT the same. Automotive RTV's are usually silicone-based and do not offer much friction to combat fretting of the case halves. I would not use it.
RTV also has a bad habit of pressing out between the cases when they are torqued down, and bits of RTV can become loose and circulate within the lubrication system. Not a good thing.