The International Cessna^® 170 Association

Does anyone know where to find an oil sump for an O-300 C?

Thanks.

Be aware there are two types. Three hole and five hole sumps. Number of bolts that attach the sump to the engine.

Yes, we need the five- holer.
There is a 3- hole one on eBay for $400.

If the sump has never been repaired you have two options. Epoxy type repair or welding. I personally would weld only as a last resort. If the sump has been welded then you can only reweld.

Here are the major threads that talk about repairing a sump.

http://www.cessna170.org/forums/viewtop ... f=2&t=3746
http://www.cessna170.org/forums/viewtop ... 24&t=10325

I have 1 of each.
The 5 hole has an airworthy weld repair. $400.00

I'd have the interior coated

I want your's in trade.

T. C. Downey wrote:I'd have the interior coated

Okanagan Aero Engine will not "coat" a welded repair. At least they wouldn't when we visited then 5 or 6 years ago. This is why I'd coat first and only weld after the coating wasn't an option.

Do any US repair shop use this epoxy repair?
Seems Canadian to me.
Why can't this be done once the pan has been welded before? Temperature changing the Mg surface?

Thanks.

Gmanic wrote:Do any US repair shop use this epoxy repair?
Seems Canadian to me.
Why can't this be done once the pan has been welded before? Temperature changing the Mg surface?

Thanks.

There is no reason the sump can not be coated after a weld repair.

Canadians work under different rules then we do, and the coating isn't epoxy, it is a two part paint that requires a bake to cure. Okanagan Aero believes that if heated the weld repair will crack.

My belief is if it didn't crack when it cooled after welding it won't crack at the temps they use to bake.

BTW their prices are way high for the procedure.

my old sump.

T. C. Downey wrote:...Okanagan Aero believes that if heated the weld repair will crack.

My belief is if it didn't crack when it cooled after welding it won't crack at the temps they use to bake.

BTW their prices are way high for the procedure.....

Ajax (long-standing, FAA-approved aircraft welding service in San Antonio) is no longer making weld-repairs on magnesium sumps due to failed-longevity/re-cracking issues.

Since Okanagan Aero are the only folks who perform this refurbishment-repair under any kind of approval-basis it's difficult for me to agree they charge too much for the quality work I've seen them do.

Of course, one could always attempt the process on one's own sump.... but Okanagan is who I would send mine to, and plan to do so as a preventive measure regardless of the condition of my sump at next overhaul.

gahorn wrote: Since Okanagan Aero are the only folks who perform this refurbishment-repair under any kind of approval-basis

Show me the approval they send with the sump.

Aryana wrote:Here you go Tom.

APPROVED Sump repair.jpg

That 8130-3 tag is not from Okanagan Aero.

They are canadian the FAA will not except their STC until it has been authorized thru the NY FSDO.

Aryana wrote:Once Divco welds it, it's good to go. No STC needed as they are an FAA approved repair shop.

It is good to go because the repair is not a major modification of the part. (see FAR 43-A) The welding of a nonstructural part of an engine is not a major repair, the sump is not a structural part of the 0-300. It can be legally welded by any A&P and returned to service on a log book entry.

Addition of a coating is a modification of the design of the part. and requires a field approval or an STC authorized by the FAA. not transport Canada.

In order to use a Canadian STC you must gain approval from the NY FSDO.

If you are going to use a sump coated by Okanagon Aero, your A&P best be comfortable signing it off as a minor repair, because the NY FSDO will ask what the coating is, and I doubt Okanagon Aero will tell ya. Plus you will be in testing for a while before approval is issued.

Just talked to DIVCO - they will on;ly weld it if is a crack, not caused by corrosion - $300.
However, if it is caused by corosion they can get it over to Drake, which is a mile a way.

I wonder if Teflon coating would work. We use it in the oil field to protect from salt water bound to keep the bottom of the sump healthy, with only condensate and oil. Only have to heat it to around 300 degrees to cure the Teflon. A light blasting to rough it up. sand or aluminum abrasive? probably could use some type nut shell. I'll talk to the coaters!! anyone got a junk one to experiment on? the coating would actually get into the corrosion pits ( sincevthey would be clean after heating to burn out contaminants). process: burn out contaminants--blast with media type?-- spray with Teflon-- bake on. thoughts??? Ron

ron74887 wrote: thoughts??? Ron

Yes you've been quiet for months. You been thinking about this process or to busy feeding your pet alligator I still think could have been a log.