The International Cessna^® 170 Association

I should have asked this at the maint. forum in Bardstown, but forgot to do so. Previously posted that I had replaced my Aeroshell 100W with Aeroshell Fluid 2F (anti rust formula) due to my engine not being operated for several months. My question is, would it possibly aid my engine to start it up occasionally long enough for the oil pressure to come up to its 45 psi, then shut it down before the engine really gets heated up? I have had someone tell me they thought recirculating the oil every so often would be benefical. I am open for suggestions/opinions.

Shell sugest you bring the engine to normal operating temperature before shutting down. It probably doesn't hurt to repeat every now and again to to keep everything coated.
http://www.shell.com/global/products-se ... es/2f.html

Hmmm lets see. What do the instructions say? Not that I'd follow them after all what could the Manufacture know that we don't. I'm just curious.

I've always been told that if your not going to get it up to operating temps to burn off any condensation it's not worth running it. When I deploy for long periods of time I put in anti rust oil, spray down the cylinder walls, and instal, desiccant plugs. Probably a little overkill but my oil samples have always come up free of rust.

Mike

LowNslow, Bruce, I tend to agree with Aeroshell's instructions. They say it is permissable to fly the plane for up to 50 hours with the anti rust oil installed, but to limit any one trip to about two hours. One would hope that the initial running of the engine to get the oil temp up should be sufficient, but one hears many suggestions and one has to wonder

Frank, an old time mechanic friend showed me a trick he used was to pull plugs and crank with battery until oil pressure came up. However He did this on overhauled engine in longterm storage sitting of work bench every one to two months. It seemed to work for him.

Thanks for all the input guys!

Frank

Once an engine is started, it needs to be brought to operating temp for a period of time to evaporate all moisture in the crankcase from combustion, OR do not start it. The condensation will definately change the chemical makeup of the oil into an acidic condition that will eventually attack the bearings.

Just my 02 cents.

John

Somewhere there's a Contintental service bulletin on what to do for long term engine storage. IIRC, "long term" is defined in the SB as 30 days or more... I wouldn't be surprised if that SB is somewhere in our MX Library.

I think it is in the overhaul manual as well. At least it is for a C-85.

Mike

I personally believe that occasionally starting and running the engine for a short period then shutting it back down ...in the belief that one is re-distributing oil which should help the preservation process....is the wrong thing to do.

The combustion process creates by-products: among other things, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide,....and water vapor. Unless the engine is operated for a sufficiently long period to heatup/expell the water vapor...all you've managed to accomplish is:
1. Create an additonal start-up cycle which has it's already well-known wear pattern and disturbing the coating of existing preservative oil.
2. Add water vapor to the preservative oil already present.
3. The water will condense/settle and contribute to corrosion of the oil sump, cylinder walls, and any other metal parts.

By definition, a "preserved" engine is prepared for in-activity. Any operation other than a complete re-preservation will disturb that condition. The only thing I would suggest is that, when preserving the engine, tape off/shut-off any entry points such as exhaust/intakes, and add dessicant plugs/packages to the spark plug holes and crankcase oil-cap and breather, inspecting and re-freshing the dessicant when it becomes saturated.