The International Cessna^® 170 Association

What is the part number for the main "kingpin" bolt that every Scott 3200 parts swivels about? I look at parts catalog illustrating all the associated parts and p.n. but see no number for the primary part.

This bolt has the castellated nut at bottom that you tighten to add compression and stop shimmy. What is the proper terminology for this part and why isn't it listed in illustrated drawings?

Just looked at Aircraft Spruce illustrated drawing and they show ALL parts with a number and then the list starts with number 2. Why is is part number 1 not listed?

I dont think you can buy the king pin separately.
Isn't it part of the upper body pn 06-01291?

I have what you need. 7857387437

You can not buy the king pin alone. It is a component of the bracket.

And I'm not sure you would want to buy one. The king pin is a press fit and should not come out. If it does there is wear that may not allow a new one to be press fit in. It will not work very well loose in my first hand experience.

If the king pin hole it out of tolerance,it is a damn sight cheaper to have the upper 3200 tailwheel casting bored and bushed than to buy a new one.

blueldr wrote:If the king pin hole it out of tolerance,it is a damn sight cheaper to have the upper 3200 tailwheel casting bored and bushed than to buy a new one.

Chances are it is just not the king hole that is worn. Chances are the king pin got loose and then cocked in the bracket allowing uneven wear of the parallel machined surfaces of the bracket. At least that is what I found on mine that I bushed. Your experience might be different.

Now if the king pin snapped as my other one did, and one only wanted to replace the king pin for that reason, and the rest of the bracket was found serviceable, then I could understand wanting a king ping. Heck I want one to fix my spare bracket.

I also understand that there is a good chance pressing in the new king pin will crack the bracket which is why I haven't spent much time finding a king pin. Though it is something I'm keeping my eyes open for though to be honest I'm hoping when I find that good kingpin it is already inserted in a good bracket.

If you are still getting the cool WX back east you could put the pin outside for a few minutes and keep the casting in where it is warm and the pin would probably drop right in the hole. Many years ago did that with the bearing race for the tail wheel, -40 outside and + 60 inside and had to keep the race in position until the temperatures equalized and it tightened up.

I did a similar number on an old Ford small block.... Put the starter ring gear in the oven and the flywheel in the deepfreeze .... quickly dropped the gear onto the flywheel, drank an adult beverage ...and reinstalled it. My friends drove that car another decade.

We used to use an insulated drum and freon to freeze what we wanted to shrink, cylinder liners to install into blocks. Dry ice will also work. Works wonders to install machine fit parts.

John

Now that gives me an idea. We have liquid oxygen (LOX) at work. The mechanics fill the aircraft bottles about every other day or so. I could place the king pin under the bottle bleed valve while it is being filled. Wonder how cold I can get that bolt before it shatters? Hmmm.

Bruce Fenstermacher wrote:Now that gives me an idea. We have liquid oxygen (LOX) at work. The mechanics fill the aircraft bottles about every other day or so. I could place the king pin under the bottle bleed valve while it is being filled. Wonder how cold I can get that bolt before it shatters? Hmmm.

Don't drop it while it's cold.

Another answer, Bruce, ...and perhaps just as available to you... is to bless it with liquid Nitrogen (commonly used by doctors to freeze tissue.)