Paint Systems

doug8082a · Post by **doug8082a** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 1:06 am

I'm researching paint shops and the like in preparation for paint next spring. In doing so, i've found shops that do Imron, Jet-Glo, Acry-glo, etc and I'm wondering... Just what IS the difference in these paint systems? Are they just different types of paint or are they truly different enough that I should consider what each has to offer? And if they really ARE that different.. just what are the differences, anyway?

Post by **GAHorn** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 3:00 am

Most of them are patented types of polyurethanes with proprietary catalysts and application systems. (Although, Imron is an old stand-by acrylic by DuPont, and hard to beat for uniformity and later touch-up, especially for color matching two years down the road.) Most of the polyurethanes are equally good, and glossy with plenty of resistance to chemicals, and chipping. They have short shelf lives (means expensive) and are a bit more trouble to touch up because you have to mix the paint with the catalyst, and anything mixed you don't use in a few hours has to be thrown out.
The polyurethanes are famous for the "wet" look. Imron can do just as good with a clearcoat.

Dave Clark · Post by **Dave Clark** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 11:53 pm

There are some very real quality differences between brands of polyurethanes that would make it worthwhile to research. Although Imron is well known, easy to apply, and one of my favorites it is far from the best in terms of color fading and dullness over time. The German produced paints have been noted for their high quality. I once heard that a true poly is a 1 to 1 mix ratio and the closer you get to that the better. Sterling is a good brand, I have not heard of the others you mentioned but I've been out of the trade so to speak for ten years or so. The ecofreak mandated reformulations for low VOC and the new HVLP paint systems have perhaps changed the favored paints from an application standpoint.

Asking the painter might just get you an answer based on which one applies the easiest or has the most profit for him. You should be able to do research with a google dearch for starters. I would stay away from any of the automotive basecoat/clearcoat systems.

spiro · Post by **spiro** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 10:18 am

>> , Imron is an old stand-by acrylic by DuPont, ... The polyurethanes are famous for the "wet" look. Imron can do just as good with a clearcoat. <<

Imron *is* polyurethane. Centari is DuPont's old stand-by arcylic enamel (which is almost as good, and expensive, as Imron when you add hardener). Basecoat/clearcoat systems are different altogether.

fwiw I've used Imron for about 30 years but painted my 170 w/ PPG's Durathane, and would again.

- paul

Post by **GAHorn** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 8:10 pm

Thanks for the correction, Paul. I had a 206 painted with Imron and it still looked 95% 18 years later, all the while being tied down outside on the Gulf Coast and central Texas. No complaints from me on Imron.

doug8082a · Post by **doug8082a** » Tue Oct 14, 2003 3:23 am

Thanks for all the info. Looks like I have some researching to do.

doug8082a · Post by **doug8082a** » Sat Oct 18, 2003 2:00 am

OK, I've been researching paint shops and paint systems and I have come across something I find interesting. While aviation paint seems to be all polyurethane, there are two types - Polyester and Acrylic. Some of the shops I talked to said they won't use a polyester polyurethane (such as Jet-Glo) because it breaks down faster over time and the finish tends to get "chalky". Acrylic polyurethanes (such as Imron or Acry-Glo) last longer and maintain their finish.

Any comments?

Dave Clark · Post by **Dave Clark** » Sun Oct 19, 2003 1:11 am

Doug

I have had good luck with Imron over the years with one exception. For some reason the Mid to Dark blue trim on my wingtips of the infamous 181 started to fade after a few years. It was also fading on the rest of the plane but not as bad
. It was outside four months in the Summers in NW Washington and hangared in AZ in the other months. It shouldn't have done that. I still contend there are a lot better polyurethanes out there.

The cost of the material would be what for the Best..... $1000 more? Look at the total cost of Alumagrip or the Randolf polys. To me I'd pay what it takes to get the best. It's more years you'll get on the paint job.

Having said that the Deltron on my 1991 paint job was starting to loose its shine. I also show some cars and found a product that is a clear coating that goes on like a wax but is not a wax. It lays a clear film on that is incredible. No silicones or anything, it's a hard coating and gives a very deep gloss.I'm now using it on everything. This Summer when the plane was outside a rainstorm would actually rinse it off so well you'd think it was washed. Do a google search for Zaino Bros.

doug8082a · Post by **doug8082a** » Sun Oct 19, 2003 1:32 am

Dave,

Thanks for the info. I know even less about paint than I do about electrics.

I agree about paying for the best you can get on the paint job. To me, it's just as important as a good engine overhaul. If you can't protect the airframe, what's the point of getting a top of the line engine job?