The International Cessna^® 170 Association

Is everyone satisfied with the way their ignition KEY turns?

I am almost satisfied but have questions. New key , just cut. Moves to all four positions smoothly, however sometimes when I move from Off to R mag it does not want to move to L. Easily detents from BOTH to L.

I do not like having to jiggle the key to move to BOTH for engine start.

It always ultimately moves to Both but the question in my mind is what if I need to do a mag check while in flight? RARE , But could the key prove to suddenly NOT move to BOTH I am in trouble.

This is not a new issue it has been there for years sometimes the key just does not move as smoothly as I would like.

So the question remains does your mag ign key operate smoothly? Do you sometimes jiggle?

I think you know that you should fix this.

Mine moves thru all locations sans jiggle.

If it's just the new key, put it on a wire wheel or a fine file and smooth over the cuts. it's probably just hanging up a little.

Your key is not properly adjusted for your tumblers. A re-cut is likely necessary.

A key that is right on the edge will do this. It may need one of the cuts filed down a bit, or added on (new key). You may be able to spot this just by looking closely at the key. Google "impressioning locks". It's been years since I tried it and I know enough to do it, but not really explain it, sorry.

The other thing it could be is a broken pin or wafer. That can cause the shearline to intermittently not line up. Easy fix for any competent lock smith. Otherwise google may walk you through how to do it on your own, but with the cost of these switches you may not want to learn on yours!

Finally, if someone stuck WD40 (the worst) or another wet lubricant in there at one time, that can cause the pins/wafers to stick. Most people know that wet lubricants on sticky locks only make them worse, but some people haven't gotten the memo (or they are just lazy and know it will fix it now to get it out the door). Only thing you can do at that point is take it apart and clean it. Lube with dry graphite.

DEM

I thank you all for the replies.

Now I really know what to do.


I watched my locksmith spray MAG IGN lock cylinder full of WD 40, said it was all he has used for over 30 years.


I will purchase several of those small spray Tubes of Graphite powder seen at auto parts counter.

When I purchased my '52 170B a little more than a year ago, I only received one ignition key. Seeing that it was a standard Y11 key, I decided to have a spare cut. It took me 3 or 4 attempts (at different shops) before I had a decent spare. After about the second attempt, I compared the original to the new (bad) key and noticed that the new key was slightly shorter from the shoulder to the tip. The new Y11 blanks have a more blunt tip than my original key, accounting for the difference in length from the shoulder. The spare that I ultimately settled on works decently most of the time. But occasionally when it hangs up, I need to pull it out slightly (just apply slight back pressure really) to turn it. Good enough for a spare for now. (BTW, I doubt that my "original" key is truly original to my plane. But it appears to be at least 20 or more years old.)

So, you might want to have your locksmith consider the length of the blank from the shoulder and adjust the cuts as necessary.

MoonlightVFR wrote:I thank you all for the replies.

Now I really know what to do.


I watched my locksmith spray MAG IGN lock cylinder full of WD 40, said it was all he has used for over 30 years.


I will purchase several of those small spray Tubes of Graphite powder seen at auto parts counter.

I'd be worried about the WD40 gumming up worse with the graphite (making a mud)

On modern bicycle shifters, I use Boeshield T9 Super Bicycle Lubricant to un-gum them from years of use or someone using the wrong lube (like WD40).
It's good stuff and doesn't dry sticky at all.

I think the LOCKSMITH got it right! Use WD 40 on locks. It is specifically recommended for electric switches and will dry out any mosture.
Graphite will attract MOISTURE and freeze in winter.

Continental recommended Cramolin Paste Type 20Kd from Caig Laboratories as an ignition switch lubricant. That is now known as DeoxIT Grease L260Np.

The best way to go is to just take the whole lock switch out and install a couple of toggle switches. They never screw up. An ignition lock only keeps the good guys honest. An airplane thief will just snip cut the "P" leads.

blueldr wrote:The best way to go is to just take the whole lock switch out and install a couple of toggle switches. They never screw up. An ignition lock only keeps the good guys honest. An airplane thief will just snip cut the "P" leads.

I'd prefer to toggles and a push button.
It'd keep the keychain from scratching the lower panel and look better.
It's also save me the 30 smackers folks try to charge for a Cessna blank.

bagarre wrote: I'd prefer to toggles and a push button.
It'd keep the keychain from scratching the lower panel and look better.
It's also save me the 30 smackers folks try to charge for a Cessna blank.

I don't keep my key on a chain, I just take it out and leave it in the hand-hold above the panel. Also, If you'd be OK with toggles, why bother with an original Cessna blank?