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Re: Tow Bars

Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 11:48 pm
by GAHorn
Richard hit the nail on the head. Mine are 10' long and 1/8" (11 ga.) The total length with the ball-hitch-coupler is 10' 7". They weigh about 30 lbs with the wheels included. You can step on them midway and they'll flex... but not bend.

Square tubing is typically sold in 20-24' lengths. I recommend that if they ask if you want them "black" or "primed"... you want them "primed". It only costs a few pennies per foot and they won't rust if primed.

Re: Tow Bars

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 12:48 am
by 170C
George, I'll be visiting with Keith (we are on the same airport). I'm wondering what diameter the "rid/axle" is? Is it all thread? How long? With the drag of the outboard wheel, dies it have a tendency to bed the axle ?

Just curious.

Frank

Re: Tow Bars

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 3:51 pm
by GAHorn
170C wrote:George, I'll be visiting with Keith (we are on the same airport). I'm wondering what diameter the "rid/axle" is? Is it all thread? How long? With the drag of the outboard wheel, dies it have a tendency to bed the axle ?

Just curious.

Frank
I purchased some solid-rubber wheels from Harbor Fright Aviation supply which had 1/2" bearings in them... so I purchased some TSC 1/2" steel rod for the axle. Drilled holes for cotters to hold the axle within the square tubing and also to locate/retain the wheels in position. When the tow bar is attached to the tow lugs on the airplane.... the tow-bar axle/wheels are "airborne"... suspended in air. No bending occurs. Look at the pic with the tow bar attached to my 170, zoom in by clicking/etc....and you can see it works fine.
click to enlarge, click again to ENLARGE
click to enlarge, click again to ENLARGE

There's sufficient "slop" at the pivot/hitch-end to allow the non-wheeled leg of the bar to be lifted to rest upon the axle for pulling around without the airplane.
It's not really necessary to drill a hole thru the square tubing... one could also weld the axle/rod to the lower surface of the sq.tube . I only did it this way because I was unsure of where to place that axle since this was a prototype. My first attempt had the bars too close to the ground using 6" wheels on-hand, so I had to go get 10" wheels to raise the bars sufficiently so the spuds/lugs would clear terrain while towing the bar only. I used solid tires because I've got way to many pneumatics to keep inflated all the time. It works out fine since ride-comfort isn't an issue.
IMAG0779.jpg

Re: Tow Bars

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 4:07 pm
by 170C
Thanks George. Sorry for some of the wording. I used my iPhone to ask the question and it often changes words or spelling and I failed to proof my question before sending :oops:

Re: Tow Bars

Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2019 5:31 pm
by Jtramo
George how is the stability with towing with your setup? I built one of my own and the tailwheel just slops left and right and threatens to smack into my hangar mates and the door on the way out. How do you keep it going straight?!

Re: Tow Bars

Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2019 3:18 pm
by GAHorn
Jtramo wrote:George how is the stability with towing with your setup? I built one of my own and the tailwheel just slops left and right and threatens to smack into my hangar mates and the door on the way out. How do you keep it going straight?!
I’m wondering why you’re experiencing this problem... My set-up doesn’t have that issue and my hangar is pretty crowded also. The “spigots” that enter the tow-eye-adaptors of my tow-bar slip easily into them yet do not allow “slop”. Perhaps your “hitch” end has excessive slop? (Mine uses a common trailer-hitch and ball .... not the typical overly large “ring” that commercial tow bars often have.)