The International Cessna^® 170 Association

I’m seeing references to a training video made by TCM covering the removal and installation of cylinders. It’s noted on form X30653 rev3 (Continental Cylinder Installation ready reference guide).

Here is a link to the guide:
http://nctc.tk/Continenl/Miscellaneous% ... lation.pdf

Does anyone have any familiarity with the video in question? Other detailed resources to study for swapping jugs would be appreciated.

Thanks

Where else but YouTube???

https://youtu.be/chnIMTCHKbA

https://youtu.be/NUkwqqtX5hg

Then for fun... here is a video from Mike Busch. He has a good reputation, although some people are not a fan of his. https://youtu.be/3-3pkRLqoGw

Also, if you have the Real Gaskets pushrod tubes, this is a good video from them... https://youtu.be/fVSzSF4b4sk

Thanks! I've actually watched all those already. For some reason I was expecting that the official TCM training videos would be a little more modern and with extensive content and details. Those are a pretty quick run through. Appreciate you linking them.

More modern?

I don’t like to see the crankshaft rotated when the thru-bolts aren’t at proper torque such as they apparently did in the vid. (I worry about main bearings shifting.).

I also do not pull the hyd bodies or deflate them and have never had a problem with that.

So if you were replacing #4 and #5, you turn crank accordingly, pull jug, replace, re-torque, turn crank, repeat? Or would you pull both, install and torque one, then rotate and install the other?

Thinking out loud -I Wonder if there are through bolts that connect 4 and 5. I need to look into that.

Well, when building up an engine from scratch (repair or ovhl) it cannot be avoided, of course. I’m just expressing a paranoia of mine based on stories of spun bearings after cylinder repair. I don’t know if perhaps worn bearings are more susceptible or not... When the clamping pressures of the thru-bolts is relieved it was thought perhaps rotation of the crank moved the mains, which lost their lube-hole alignments. In some cases it resulted in bearing failures, in others it was suspected to have caused a cracked bearing support when the bearing moved out of position and the bolts retorqued may have crushed the bearing-bed.

You could take the U/S cylinder, cut the base off and now you have a plate to torque up mains. Then take the top of the barrel cut off the head, cut the barrel again two inches below the top. Cut a 1 “ wide by x 2 “ long vertical section out of the side and flare out one end of the barrel. You now have a simple and effective ring compressor. Hopefully you don’t have to replace or use all you barrels

Make something like this, if you have spare time.

Looks great! I’m going to do it!

Wait...how do you get the ring compressor back off once you’ve partially inserted the new piston?

The slot is for the rod. Actually a barrel with the fins removed is a bit easier to handle. I guess its a bit of work to make but what else can you do with a u/s jug ?

Oh, yeah. That makes sense.