Stall Horn info needed

[Wyoming1]

Hey all, my stall horn has failed. Despite my search of these threads, I’m struggling to find the right thread, although I’m sure it’s been addressed. Can someone please direct me to the location of the “buzzer” or whatever that part is called? Perhaps post the thread discussing this? Thank you

[GAHorn]

It would help if you posted the model and serial number of your airplane…to know where the “buzzer” may be located.

Since only the B-model Required a stall warning…. chances are that’s what you have (although some “A” models also had as an option.)

Most are installed beneath the left yoke shaft…but some are located in a hidden location, mounted on top of the glove box (if you still have a glove box.)…otherwise… it could be anywhere if it’s been relocated.

The most common problem with these things is a Loss-of-electrical “ground”… Start at the Lift-Detector out on the left wing and check the ground-terminal which is usually screwed to the D-rib. While you’re out there…also check for power TO the detector using a VOM.

These things are typically wired thru the same circuit breaker as the T&B…and most of those were a self-resetting 2A breaker which looks like a small black hockey-puck about 1” dia…. also hidden behind the panel…. although it’s not uncommon for them to have been changed-out and served with a standard fuse or C.B.

[Wyoming1]

Thanks a bunch George. I’m an A model. with sn 19842 I do have a glove box. I opened the panel on the left wing. It appears that the ground wire is attached directly to the lift detector. I’ll look under the yoke. Appreciate the help.

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Just a few links:
viewtopic.php?t=16722
viewtopic.php?p=151569#p151569
viewtopic.php?t=6964

If you have an original style horn, not a more modern sound making device like a piezo horn or buzzer, beside external ground and power wire issues, they fail from inactivity allowing corrosion to form on the points that must open and close to activate the electro magnet moving the diaphragm. Mush like old B&S engines points prior to electronic ignition. The action of the horn in operation keeps the points clean. If you can get the points to even momentarily close by taping the side of the enclosure with power applied, the action will clean the horn and it will continue to work.

I've had good success reviving these horns. PM me if you need help.