Help Me With My Harness Please, and Do I Have The Right Plug

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N1478D
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Help Me With My Harness Please, and Do I Have The Right Plug

Post by N1478D »

There are a few different brands listed in Spruce and Trade-A-Plane, has anyone had bad/good experience with any certain ones. I need to replace the harness to the top plugs. The mag is a Bendix Type S6LN-21 P/N 10-51365-39 Serial No A127665.

One thing that is not clear in the Spruce catalog is whether left means sitting in the seat facing the prop, or if it means standing in front of the airplane facing the prop. Sitting in the airplane makes it the right mag firing the top plugs in mine. Spruce catalog says standard is for the left mag to fire the top plugs. Does anyone know which way they determine right/left?

Spruce is not showing a part number with an option for a 90 degree elbow for my application. Due to the baffle, it looks like an elbow would help, my leads are bent nearly 90 degrees coming off of the plugs.

The engine is the C145-2, and it was running Champion REM40E 's when I bought it. Spruce calls out for the REM38E. What would be the difference and are there reasons to run a different plug :?:

Hoping for advice and maybe source for best pricing.
Thanks in Advance.
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
zero.one.victor
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Post by zero.one.victor »

A couple years ago,I replaced all my spark plugs. They were p/n REM 40E,so that's what I repalced them with.
I also replaced the complete ignition harness back in 98. I was running Bendix mags,don't recall the model but probably the same as yours (I switched to Slicks when I majored the engine last year). The new harness for the Bendix mags was Champion p/n CH12130.Price was $273 from National Aviation in Seattle. Im think Chief &/or Spruce prices were about the same. The new harness didn't have elbow-type plug connectors,but they flexed the required 90 degrees no problem. My ragwing has the same airbox-type baffling as your A model. I would go ahead & replace the complete harness if I were you.

Eric
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N1478D
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Post by N1478D »

zero.one.victor wrote:A couple years ago,I replaced all my spark plugs. They were p/n REM 40E,so that's what I repalced them with.
I also replaced the complete ignition harness back in 98. I was running Bendix mags,don't recall the model but probably the same as yours (I switched to Slicks when I majored the engine last year). The new harness for the Bendix mags was Champion p/n CH12130.Price was $273 from National Aviation in Seattle. Im think Chief &/or Spruce prices were about the same. The new harness didn't have elbow-type plug connectors,but they flexed the required 90 degrees no problem. My ragwing has the same airbox-type baffling as your A model. I would go ahead & replace the complete harness if I were you.

Eric
Hi Eric, did some research at lunch. You do save a little $ by replacing both harnesses - they sell them as a kit for less. The shop demonstrated the flexability of the new material vs the old and looks like I don't need the extra expense of the elbows. Same with me on the plugs, replaced with what was already installed - not sure why Spruce calls out 38's. Thanks :!:
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
Tom Downey
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Why replace the entire assembly?

Post by Tom Downey »

This bendix harness has a replacable leads at $25 per lead, why change the whole thing? are all the leads bad?
Tom Downey A&P-IA
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N1478D
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Re: Why replace the entire assembly?

Post by N1478D »

Tom Downey wrote:This bendix harness has a replacable leads at $25 per lead, why change the whole thing? are all the leads bad?
No, just two Tom. Was looking at a hangar neighbor's spare parts and although it was not exactly the one for mine, the leads looked like they were assembled at the factory to the part that attaches to the back of the mag! I'll pull mine off of the mag tonight and check that, I would much rather just buy two leads at this time. Thanks :!:
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
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N1478D
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Post by N1478D »

Oh, think I knew this at one time - the 38 vs 40 is the spark plugs heat range with the lower number being colder. So Eric and I are running hot plugs, not sure what that is doing for me here in the Texas summer.

The engine has handled the Texas heat well for the last 4 years (500 hours). It has blast tubes, one on each side of the oil screen area, that look factory original. It also has cooling to the generator. There are an additional two air scoops behind the grills that direct air into the exhaust system. The metal baffeling fits very well, but eventually I will need to replace the flexable material between the baffles and the cowling. On the hottest of days it stays under 200 degrees but I watch my climb rate and if I see an increase in temp I richen the mixture for a while.
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
Tom Downey
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Re: Why replace the entire assembly?

Post by Tom Downey »

N1478D wrote:
Tom Downey wrote:This bendix harness has a replacable leads at $25 per lead, why change the whole thing? are all the leads bad?
No, just two Tom. Was looking at a hangar neighbor's spare parts and although it was not exactly the one for mine, the leads looked like they were assembled at the factory to the part that attaches to the back of the mag! I'll pull mine off of the mag tonight and check that, I would much rather just buy two leads at this time. Thanks :!:
After you remove the cap at the back of the mag look at the interior, you will see a cone inserted into each lead holding it in the cap. The wire it's self will protrude thru the cone with a spring or rubber end attached to make connection with the distributator block.
Snip the interior end off of the bad lead, cutting as little off as necessary to reliece the connector, then pry out the cone using a flush cutting side cutters.
OR
pull out the old interior wire, and replace it with out replacing the entire shielding. use all your old hardware. napa has the new wire. be sure to pull in a messenger line to pull the new wire in with. that is, tie a string to the end of the old wire and pull it into the shielding, then use it to pull the new wire in with, cut the new wire long and trim as needed later.
Tom Downey A&P-IA
doakes
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Post by doakes »

E-mail me at doakes@Qserve.net and we will talk about what you need as far as leads are concern. I have an old set-still in good shape that I will let you have what you need-two leads-you pay for shipping.
Take care :D
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GAHorn
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Post by GAHorn »

Joe, all positions are measured/derived from the pilot's viewpoint. If you are talking about engine #1, it's the one to the far left of the pilot. (#10 is on the far right wing. ;Þ) The prop is a "clockwise" rotation (on American aircraft) as viewed from the pilot's seat. So,...the left mag, is the one firing the bottom plugs on a 170, and is on the left side of the accy case when viewed from the pilot's flying position. (And the co-pilot is on the right and the passengers sit in the back.) ;Þ
REM-40E plugs are slightly hotter running than 38E's. The R refers to a resistor type plug (helps alleviate radio interference), the E means it's a shielded plug (and also a 5/8 inch -24 thread plug, vs 3/4-inch-20 thread, all-weather plug). , and the M means it's an 18 mm thread size with a 1/2" thread reach. The hotter plug does not make your engine run hotter. It refers to the temperature that the plug electrodes run. (This is controlled by insulator internal length.) The 40's are usually preferred because they deal with oil and lead a bit better than the 38's do.
The final "E" at the end of the designation means it's a double massive electrode type (as opposed to a single, three, four, or wire or other electrode type.)
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N1478D
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Post by N1478D »

gahorn wrote:Joe, all positions are measured/derived from the pilot's viewpoint. If you are talking about engine #1, it's the one to the far left of the pilot. (#10 is on the far right wing. ;Þ) The prop is a "clockwise" rotation (on American aircraft) as viewed from the pilot's seat. So,...the left mag, is the one firing the bottom plugs on a 170, and is on the left side of the accy case when viewed from the pilot's flying position. (And the co-pilot is on the right and the passengers sit in the back.) ;Þ
REM-40E plugs are slightly hotter running than 38E's. The R refers to a resistor type plug (helps alleviate radio interference), the E means it's a shielded plug (and also a 5/8 inch -24 thread plug, vs 3/4-inch-20 thread, all-weather plug). , and the M means it's an 18 mm thread size with a 1/2" thread reach. The hotter plug does not make your engine run hotter. It refers to the temperature that the plug electrodes run. (This is controlled by insulator internal length.) The 40's are usually preferred because they deal with oil and lead a bit better than the 38's do.
The final "E" at the end of the designation means it's a double massive electrode type (as opposed to a single, three, four, or wire or other electrode type.)
Thanks George, I think :oops: Could not determine if Spruce determined right/left the same way because the catalog calls out for the left mag to fire the top plugs as standard. Glad you guys made it back, guess there was a reason you didn't climb up to cooler air to avoid operating at redline.
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
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