Well Valt I hope you've learned something from this
Use PM's to ask for comparisons 170 A vs B, early yrs vs later yrs..
Allthough everytime they go back and forth I do learn from it.
Think for yourself, why would there be such differences in 52 vs 56?
Is there any difference in 2003 and 52?
Planes just keep getting better and better don't they?
exceptn them with green speed streeks
The problem with the early latches is if the "clip-latch lever" p/n 0452111 that holds the latch in the closed postion quits doing just that. It's a sorta spring that the latch lever snaps down onto.
You can safety these latches several different ways. My ragwing has u-shaped pieces of aluminum that saddle the latch lever when it is in the closed position,with a cotter key across the saddle to keep the latch from opening accidently. I've seen others that use a screw thru the latch lever itself,of course then you need a screwdriver to open the latch.
The #1/1995 170 News has an article about safetying the latches on the early cowls. I think I've seen some other articles on these safety's in other 170 News issues,or maybe in The 170 Book or the SRAM book.
Probably half of the early 170's and the 120/140's I've eyeballed have safetied cowl latches. Check out any that you see for ideas.
Eric
Forgot to mention,I think that Univair sells reoplacement latches & latch parts. I seem to remember Dave Clark posting something about latch repair/replacement recently.
Also,I noticed that someone is advertising a replacement Camloc latch set-up in the 170 News,$189 for a set of four. "Dip" Davis birddr@mc.net
Never seen a set,though.
My prior post was that the latch parts cost half that of a latch assembly and you'll only need a few parts to rebuild them so it gets better yet. And it's easy. So no longer will I put up with my safety pins because once rebuilt the latches are really secure in their original design. If you can use a rivet gun I think $189 would probably be enough for parts for the four latches. I think I used the set from a brake pad tool and a hammer to rivet the pins. Besides the clip Eric mentioned you'll need the pins, spring maybe, and who knows what else. I had a lot of elongation of the pin holes in one of the components. Since my latches had been worn out for some time and relying on the safety pins they had the opportunity to wear a bunch. If yours are stock and just starting to become questionable you'll probably get by with far fewer parts.
Despite all the reports of latch problems, I've never had any problem with my originals. I had one latch where the "clip latch" had one broken side, but still seemd to work (oddly enough). They can be had from Univair for $10 ea (what a bargain ). I replaced it, had one episode where it didn't hold the latch closed so I just bent the prongs outward a little more and it's working fine. I'll probably replace the rest at some point.
My free advice--well worth the price!-- to anyone whose latches are at all shakey,is to replace them. I've heard of people crashing their airplanes when the passenger or boarding door pops open in flight--imagine the ruckus if that top cowl lets loose! Even if you kept your cool & landed safely,it'd trash the cowl. Play it safe, repair &/or safety those latches!
I ran across this in Barnstormers.com. Anyone familar with what he's selling and have an opinon on it?
CESSNA 120/140/170 OWNERS! • AVAILABLE!! Latches? You Don't Need No Stinking Latches! Worn cowl latches let the cowl shake and chafe and hurt itself, and occasionally pop open and stop your heart. NOW, for less than the cost of ONE original style latch assy., you can have a complete set of re-engineered cowl closure devices. No modifications required. You can put the old stuff right back on if you're foolish enough. The VICCL Cowl Latch Kit is STC'd, FAA/PMA'd, investigated by the IRS and no doubt sniffed at by the ATF and CIA. Our personal 120 has been running these for more than five years, in perfect harmony. We have never been asked to return the purchase price, but we will if you're the first. Phone,
Fax or e-mail sourcer@innw.net STAMP OUT COWL FLAP! Contact Jim Davis, Dragonslayer - SOURCERAIR, INC. located Walla Walla WA USA. Telephone: 1 509-529-2476. Fax: 1 509-529-2476. --
Posted 14 September 2002
Farnold wrote: Flyguy, what is the mod you performed for your cowling latches you refer to. One of my rear latches is misbehaving and giving me fits on my '52.
I drilled a #10 hole through the toggle latch and on through the cowl stiffner. Then I inserted a 10-32 a stainless steel (braisier head) screw from inside the cowl and threaded it through a loc-nut. I let it protrude just enough to allow a knurled stainless steel cap nut over the end of the bolt to bottom out inside the cap nut when the latch is firmly closed. I only did it on the front latches because they are the ones that will cause problems when they come open in flight. The mod will work on either one though.
Gar,
That is how my latches are all modified, except a hole was drilled through the end of the screw so I could insert a pin rather than screwing a nut on the end.
Flyguy, what is the mod you performed for your cowling latches you refer to. One of my rear latches is misbehaving and giving me fits on my '52. 
). I replaced it, had one episode where it didn't hold the latch closed so I just bent the prongs outward a little more and it's working fine. I'll probably replace the rest at some point.
