The International Cessna^® 170 Association

I remember some time back a discussion on new weatherstrip for the cabin doors but I've searched and can't bring it up. I'm going to do some repainting of the door inside edges and will need to replace the weatherstrip. It looks like 0711010-1 is superceeded by R860005. At around $5+ per foot the 76 ft would be nearly $400 (I want Cessna Parts.com and Cessna Parts.com) which seems really steep to me. A large auto paint store in Phoenix has about all the types made for cars and nothing looked close to me. Any good sources for this or suggestions for alternatives would be apreciated. I know the problem with the wrong type or too big will stress the hinges. Has anyone used the R860005?

Dave
" At around $5+ per foot the 76 ft would be nearly $400" Are you doing three 170s are do you have a cargo door STC? I'm using Spruce P/N 05-00010 about $60 for a 25' roll enough to go around the standard doors on my 53. This has the same dimensions as the seal from Brown's aircraft that George recomends. Worst thing is the name "P****r door seal! Paul

Dave If its the Vee shaped seal you might check on the Cessna 120-140 site as they have a guy who has some. Bill K.

Paul
I guess I was really tired yesterday from a very long commercial flight the day before. 76 feet is a lot of doors. Have you installed the 05-00010 and closed your doors yet? Is it pretty soft? Do the doors close easily?

Bill, I've got a sample of the 120/140 seal coming. Thanks for the tip.

Check out http://www.brownaircraft.com and their T-9088 door seal.

gahorn wrote:Check out http://www.brownaircraft.com and their T-9088 door seal.

On your recommendation, George, this is material I used. I would highly recommend this, it seals well without binding up the door when trying to close it. (also reasonably priced)

I would stay away from any of the solid seals.

Well I thought I could figure it out but one question. I thought it was more like the BA-10012 or the T-4096 that Brown has, not the Piper type.

Are you saying the T-9088 fits well and works better? I assume the bulb goes to the inside corner and the flat will not be too large for the flange right? I'll probably try the one lowNslow got from Spruce then.

The bulb does go into the "inside corner" and the flat goes alongside the inner door flange...NOT the outer door edge. Also, you should install it so that the ends meet at the lower door threshold near the trailing edge of the door. This will allow any condensation within the tube to drain.

Got it. Thanks George.

Dave

I spent a lot of time reasearching door seal when I did my restoration a few years back.....I found what I believe to be an exact match....There is a company in Canada called Spaenaur .... call and ask for them to mail you out a sample of part # 825-220 ...they normally send out a few inches via mail....there phone number is 800 265 8772 you can also view this online at spaenaur.com you are looking to find page K8....Good Luck....Pat Phillips

Now would this same Brown T-9088 weather stripping be the best for the center latch opening windows?

No. For the windows I have an entire roll (more than enough for both windows) of the genuine article from Cessna I'll sell for what I paid for it. $33.
Otherwise, I'd recommend you consider the item # BA-1055-1 from brownaircraft.com

I think I've used hollow quarter round for the doors, like Brown's T-4096, with good results. If memory serves me correctly that's what Cessna sold me.

The Fiends Against Aviation were hot-on-the-trail of those who did not have "PMA'd" weatherstrips/doorseals for a couple of years following the big AD note against the inflatables. It got downright silly, with condition tags and threats being issued all over the country.
Then someone pointed out that weatherstrip fell into the category of "fairings, trim, and upholstry" and that started a whole new argument about the meaning of FAR 43, Appdx A, preventive mx. Then it came to light that the official weatherstrips/doorseals (PN 0711010-1) that Cessna provided were in fact different from year to year for the same PN. First was a hollow "U" shape, then a "V" shape, then a hollow quarterround or "P" (both intermixed in the same year) , then back to quarterround.... (some argue that the quarterround was solid foam. I have no idea for certainty, but I seem to recall the early 140's I flew on pipeline had a solid quarterround....but it was natural rubber not synthetic, and it slowly melted in the southern hot sun and became a runny mess after a decade or so.)
It seems that Cessna used whatever they had on hand and had virtually no specification for what passed as 0711010-1 other than "synthetic rubber weatherstip - cabin door". Some years it was foam and others it was not, some years hollow, some years channeled.
The confusion finally played out with the Fiends being reminded that the AD note only applied to the inflator motor and elec. circuit of the specifically named manufacturer of the inflatable door seal, and the saga faded into the fog of their brains. (It's such a vague specification that even EAA judges don't grade on doorseal and Cessna engineering can't commit anything to writing.)
Be careful that whatever you use does not deform the door, especially upon closing near the doorpost. Considerable pressure can be created at that point with a too-thick or too-unforgiving seal (while insufficient thickness will create a really nice whirlwind of an airleak.) For that reason, I lean toward a hollow, foam seal, and I've got the so-called "Piper" in 3/8" size "P" shape on mine (this is the Brown Aircraft T-9088). It sealed up the air leaks and did not overly stress the door. It's been there for 5 years and seems to be holding up fine. I installed it using 3M 1300L adhesive diluted with MEK.

OK I'm about ready to install some white silicone base P molding intended for Beech aircraft but demensionally the same as the Piper p molding thats been mentioned here.

I've been looking locally for 3M 1300L adhesive which I've not been able to find. Someone else on another thread with the same subject used 3m 8061.

I'm wondering what others have used that might be available at the hardware store like Pliobond or Dap contact cement. I'm also a little worried the cement may not stick to the silicone based P channel.