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Rheostat for panel lights
Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 7:09 pm
by Collin Gyenes
Hello,
I need a rheostat for my B model. Wicks Airchaft has two listed 8 ohm 1.77 amp and 15 ohm 1.29 amp. I have used a Wicks rheostat before but don't remember which one is used. Any comments will be welcome.
P.S. does anyone need any rain?
Collin
http://www.cfiamerica.com
Re: Rheostat for panel lights
Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 9:31 pm
by cessna170bdriver
Collin Gyenes wrote:P.S. does anyone need any rain?
Collin
If you have any extra, send it our way. Winter is supposed to be our "green" season, but the hills up here are as brown as the middle of August. Kern County has taken it upon themselves to ban the use of fireplaces and outdoor BBQ's, for fear of starting a wildfire.
Miles
Re: Rheostat for panel lights
Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 1:19 am
by 4583C
Collin Gyenes wrote:Hello,
P.S. does anyone need any rain?
Texas could use some of that rain also. I've been a volunteer fireman since 69 and never seen a fire season this bad!
Paul
Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 2:22 am
by c170b53
Its greener than Ireland up here. bodes well for summer time.
Re: Rheostat for panel lights
Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2006 6:09 pm
by GAHorn
Collin Gyenes wrote:Hello,
I need a rheostat for my B model. Wicks Airchaft has two listed 8 ohm 1.77 amp and 15 ohm 1.29 amp. I have used a Wicks rheostat before but don't remember which one is used. Any comments will be welcome.
P.S. does anyone need any rain?
Collin
http://www.cfiamerica.com
The original was a 60 Ohm, 10 Watt unit. But I've found what I consider a better replacement unit with greater capacity and greater range for better control of lighting (which would likely cover any additional lighting you want to add in the future.) The rheostat is mfr'd by Ohmite Mfg. Co., Skokie, Ill 60076 (A North American Phillips Co.) and is their model "H", 100 ohms, 25 watt, stock no. 0151.
Their rheostats are listed at:
http://www.ohmite.com/cgi-bin/showpage. ... _wirewound
Notice they also have rheostats which are enclosed, should you be paranoid about open resistance wiring. (Not suggesting anything, here. The original ones were un-enclosed, but if you've modified your airplane and have dimmer-rheostats near flammable upholstery or in unprotected locations.....it's a consideration.)
Ohmite makes lots of other components. Their home page is:
http://www.ohmite.com/
Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 4:37 am
by blueldr
George,
How did you document the traceability and installation of that Ohmite rheostat?
Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 2:10 pm
by Dave Clark
blueldr wrote:George,
How did you document the traceability and installation of that Ohmite rheostat?
I think he modified it by putting epoxy on the windings at the end so it would turn off all the way thereby creating an "owner produced part".
Right George?

Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:01 am
by blueldr
Dave Clark,
That was a very, very astute conclusion.
Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 1:26 pm
by GAHorn
If you purchase a "standard" or industry "equivalent" electrical device such as a switch, circuit-breaker, connector, etc., then no requirement for PMA or OEM pn is required. (Hint: How 'bout those little glass-tube fuses you use in your airplane? Ever see a PMA on one of them? What about those Potter and Brumfeld and Klixon C.B.s you buy from catalogs? Same thing.)
Off the top of my head I don't have the FAA policy letter number memorized,...it's been awhile since I read it, ...but I'll bet someone in our group does. In any case, standard or equivalent switches, fuses, cb's, rheostates, controls, etc., are acceptable.
Just don't use automotive, or Radio-Shack/Chinese/hobby switches, wiring, relays, etc. Ohnmite is the mfr of the original and substituting a similar device of theirs of greater capacity is merely a minor alteration. Record it in the "aircraft records."
Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:33 pm
by Dave Clark
It was a joke George

Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:41 pm
by GAHorn
Dave Clark wrote:It was a joke George

Ha! Yes, I got
your humor, Dave. It's just blu eldr's ribbing I was responding to.

(shoulda used a smiley, I guess.)
(I guess I'm outta control. Sometimes, overlooking good-natured ribbing, my mind flashes over to how it might be read by a newbie who is really trying to do things right and isn't as sure of himself as you guys are,...so I then try to make sure there' no mis-understanding about the advice. Then I get zinged by one of my friends like you or Dick or FlyGuy .... etc... and I forget to jab back. Thanks for the laugh.)
(you wouldn't believe how hard this volunteer stuff is)

Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 3:26 pm
by Dave Clark
gahorn wrote:[(you wouldn't believe how hard this volunteer stuff is)

Yes I would, and thank you for all your efforts and help here. Seems like you've been beat on a bit lately.
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 3:53 am
by blueldr
George, I'm damn serious about this traceability business. I have seen some guys installing tie wraps and cotter pins and they haven't the faintest idea where they came from.
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 9:32 pm
by N170CT
Blu elder,
Not me!!! I get tie wraps only from Home Depot. They come multicolored (non-discriminatory-can't offend anybody) in a large round plastic container that can be used to sump the tanks and wash the Bracket air filter in mogas

. Just remember to staple the Home Depot receipt in the log book for traceability. It's already dated. Wal-Mart has tie wraps too, but they are usually one color

which the politicians ain't noticed yet. So, only use Wal-Mart tie wraps in an emergency (such as securing a broken muffler) lest you arouse the feds. My cotter pins come from Pep Boys unless K-Mart has a Blue Light Special on cotter pins when I am there.
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 3:58 am
by blueldr
N170CT
I can see that you're a very shrewd shopper when it comes to keeping the cost of flying within reason.