Please Help!!!! (Fuel Selector Valve Replacement)
Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
Please Help!!!! (Fuel Selector Valve Replacement)
You Guys were awsome when I needed a gascolator and now I really need help. I'm in the middle of my annual and just found out that i new to find a fuel valve. Now my Mechanic is telling me that the retro fit kit from cessna for my 1950 170A is gonna cost 5400 bucks . He told me i should turn to you guys for help finding one at salvage. Any help would be great. Because the one i got is leaking and may not be repairable.
- Bruce Fenstermacher
- Posts: 10362
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:24 am
Dusty
I'll assume you have the older style valve. This valve has a body that is cast as opposed to machined out of a block of aluminum which the newer style is.
If you have the newer machined block style they are very rebuildable with new o-rings.
While I haven't personally seen the inside of one of the older valves I have seen other valves that use the same principle to work. That is a close tolerance fit. Chances are that something may have gotten in between the 2 surfaces and make a gouge. Perhaps it's just dirty and the barrel just won't seal against the outside surface. You need to clean the parts and lap the 2 surfaces together. Depending on the surface I might use a small dap of valve grinding compound at the worst or even auto paint compounding polish. After polishing, clean it well and lube the barrel lightly with fuel lube before assembly. Unless it is really bad I'll bet you can get it to work again.
If you or your mechanic can't or won't fix it and you can't find a replacement, I'd take a crack at it for you at least before before you went the new Cessna route. My friends and I have been known to work magic. I'm just north of Philadelphia. Most of Maryland isn't that far away.
I'll assume you have the older style valve. This valve has a body that is cast as opposed to machined out of a block of aluminum which the newer style is.
If you have the newer machined block style they are very rebuildable with new o-rings.
While I haven't personally seen the inside of one of the older valves I have seen other valves that use the same principle to work. That is a close tolerance fit. Chances are that something may have gotten in between the 2 surfaces and make a gouge. Perhaps it's just dirty and the barrel just won't seal against the outside surface. You need to clean the parts and lap the 2 surfaces together. Depending on the surface I might use a small dap of valve grinding compound at the worst or even auto paint compounding polish. After polishing, clean it well and lube the barrel lightly with fuel lube before assembly. Unless it is really bad I'll bet you can get it to work again.
If you or your mechanic can't or won't fix it and you can't find a replacement, I'd take a crack at it for you at least before before you went the new Cessna route. My friends and I have been known to work magic. I'm just north of Philadelphia. Most of Maryland isn't that far away.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
I did what Bruce just suggested. I needed to lap just a touch to clean it up and now its great. Mine is a brass body with a tapered fit. Put new seals on the stem and your in business.
John
John
John Hess
Past President 2018-2021
President 2016-2018, TIC170A
Vice President 2014-2016, TIC170A
Director 2005-2014, TIC170A
N3833V Flying for Fun
'67 XLH 900 Harley Sportster
EAA Chapter 390 Pres since 2006
K3KNT
Past President 2018-2021
President 2016-2018, TIC170A
Vice President 2014-2016, TIC170A
Director 2005-2014, TIC170A
N3833V Flying for Fun
'67 XLH 900 Harley Sportster
EAA Chapter 390 Pres since 2006
K3KNT
If you have the older cast imperial style valve (p.n. 0413020-3) there is a good article on them here. http://www.cessna120-140.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2149. I believe they are the same valve used on 120/140's. I could cross reference the part #'s if you want. I had a "very good friend" with a weatherhead valve on his 120. Note that the article is old and refers to a $500-600 Cessna valve. Nice guys that they are they came out with a $5400 replacement.N9149A wrote:Dusty
I'll assume you have the older style valve. This valve has a body that is cast as opposed to machined out of a block of aluminum which the newer style is.
John
N2865C
"The only stupid question is one that wasn't asked"
N2865C
"The only stupid question is one that wasn't asked"
The older 170's used a Weatherhead type brass valve, very simiar to the ones available from Aircraft Spruce (tho' not eactly the same...due to orifice size differences.)N2865C wrote:If you have the older cast imperial style valve (p.n. 0413020-3) there is a good article on them here. http://www.cessna120-140.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2149. I believe they are the same valve used on 120/140's. I could cross reference the part #'s if you want. I had a "very good friend" with a weatherhead valve on his 120. Note that the article is old and refers to a $500-600 Cessna valve. Nice guys that they are they came out with a $5400 replacement.N9149A wrote:Dusty
I'll assume you have the older style valve. This valve has a body that is cast as opposed to machined out of a block of aluminum which the newer style is.
Cessna actually ARE nice guys ...despite the hefty price. The problem is one of obsolescence with the older valve, and the need to convert to the more available, newer style valve. Last year Cessna solicited owners of older 170's that might have an interest in "loaning" their airplane to Cessna for them to develop a repair-scheme for this problem. Cessna offered to modify older airplanes at/near cost to the lender. At the end of the program, Cessna produced a Service Kit to modify older airplanes with brand-new production parts. The price of the mod is reflected in that research and development. (Try getting Piper to do that for your Cherokee.)
The alternative is to simply search thru the bone-yards and locate an early 172 to cannibalize for it's valve and upgrade your older valve to the later standard. You'll run the risk of having acquired another unserviceable valve, but perhaps it'll be rebuildable at least. (And you'll likely have to make up some of your own tubing and fittings to match the original 170-B and 172-A set ups.)
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
- Bruce Fenstermacher
- Posts: 10362
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:24 am
- Romeo Tango
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Tue Sep 02, 2003 10:32 pm
Valve Packing
My '48 170 needed new packing for the fuel valve. There were plenty of official sources that required a mortgage. My friends at Home Depot were more than happy to help out with a teflon packing rope for less than a cuppa at the corner 'high end' coffee shop. I bought four of them to give me a lifetime supply(!)
According to the local (ex-Piper dealer) NEW Piper will not support original Pipers.N9149A wrote:I'm sure Piper would be happy to do this for $5400 a copy, if they had to.gahorn wrote:(Try getting Piper to do that for your Cherokee.)
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.