The International Cessna^® 170 Association

Does anyoen have the parts numbers, or know where I can find the parts numbers for the Cleveland Brakes? Nothing on the Clevelands in my parts catalog. Looks like my right wheel threw the outside puck off (altogteher). I may have to replace the disk.

OK - I did a search and found the Parker web site and now realizeisimply asking for Cleveland part numbers was probably a stupid question. I will have to identify what wheel assembly I have on the airplane and go from there.

Are they Clevelands?? This may help....
http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpag ... 6brake.php

N2865C,

Just what I needed thanks.

I worked on my right brake today and I believe I have identified the brake activation problem being discussed and associated with the hard aluminum brakes lines. I burned right through my exterior right brake lining in about a three week period. Investigating what may have caused the rapid wear on the right exterior lining I discovered that part number 069-00400 Bolt-Anchor, as depicted in the N2865C attachment, was jamming. When the right sort of pressure is applied to the brake assembly the Anchor Bolt jams in the pass through which results in pressure being continuously applied to the exterior lining. After replacing the disc and linings, when putting the brake back together the Anchor bolt jammed - with a light tap of a hammer in functioned normally and seemed to continue to do so. Something I will continue to watch until I change to flexible lines.

Apply anti-seize to the anchor bolts before assembly.

Robert Eilers wrote:... I discovered that part number 069-00400 Bolt-Anchor, as depicted in the N2865C attachment, was jamming.

Robert,

There is a fix for this, but it involves more than lubricating with antiseize. Anything that won't dry up will accumulate brake dust and you'll shortly be right back where you started.

The hole in the caliper housing in which the anchor pin slides must be cleaned-up, as well as the anchor pin itself. To do this, I fabricated a 5" long rod from 1/4" aluminum, in which I cut a slot at one end using a cut-off tool. When you're done, it will look much like a slotted gun cleaning rod. Chuck this in a hand drill, cut and put a 1" square piece of 3M "red pad" in it, dip in lacquer thinner, and run it in and out of the housing until all gunk is removed. Use another piece of red pad and clean the anchor pin. You'll likely have to clean the housing several times before all baked-on gunk is removed.

Let the lacquer thinner dry, then spray the anchor pin and in the housing with a dry moly lube. Alternatively, Cleveland says you may use silicone spray, but a dry moly spray does much better. After the moly has dried, reassemble and you're good to go!

The solid line may be an issue; I don't know. But I guarantee this is the best way to stop an anchor pin from sticking and wearing the lining prematurely.

Whenever I service my brakes I clean the caliper holes with an ordinary gun bore cleaning brush and lubricate with dry graphite. (Same stuff we're supposed to be using on our aileron and other piano-type hinges.)
The flexible brake lines are absolutely necessary, IMHO.

Of course cleaning the bores goes without saying. Have used anti-seize for years and never an issue. Clean the bores at each annual/100hr before applying the lube.