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Stripping paint finish work.
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:17 pm
by 33alfa
OK guys and girls help me out here. Started stripping 33alfa A model. stripper worked for the most part about 90% just little stuff left. Tried some elbo grease and acid etchand scothbrite. tough goin. Tried a wiz wheel and seems to work but a little afraid of marking it up to much. So let me have it! I know im not the first and won't be the last. Just a note. After stripping i was able to see all the original markings still etced in the metal. What a great looking airplane it must of been when she rolled of the line all polished and shiney and, and, and, Oh sorry must of been day dreaming. Anyway any help would be great Roger in Anchorage.
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:35 pm
by pojawis
One mechanic whom I trust implicitly maintained that stripping paint should never be performed by mechanical means (scraping, wire wheeling, etc.) and should only be performed chemically. He says that the only rubbing should be done with a cotton cloth, of which the old time diapers were once made (the kind that had to be pinned after correctly folding upon the litter critter). He felt that on these old birds, one doesn't know how thick the metal is due to previous mechanical stripping. Further 'Scotchbriting' would serve to remove yet more metal, perilously thinning the skins to the point where premature cracking fatique could occur. As far as the chemicals to be used, I have little idea, although... I've yet to find any paint that would stick around long in the presence of lacquer thinner.
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:50 pm
by Indopilot
I like to use a piece of old window plexiglass, broken off so it has a sharp edge. It is softer than the metal and will take those stuborn little spots off. Just don't have fat Aunt Emma lean on it with all 400 lbs. I can't imagine how long it would take to remove a significant amount of aluminum with hand operated Scotch Bright. The only concern there might be the alclad but that is extremely thin when new and on our 50 year old plus A/C has already been breached in many areas. Also the paint will adhere MUCH better after scotch bright. Gives the paint something to grip. Brian
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 10:02 pm
by GAHorn
When a wire wheel is used on aluminum it imparts fine steel particles imbedded into the surface of the aluminum. You cannot prevent it. This is a future electrolysis-corrosion hazard. (And it will cause your new paint to bubble up.) It is not good practice to use anything other than aluminum (such as aluminum wool) or synthetic (plastic) materials for removal tools.
3M Scotch-Brite pads are somethimes used on tough spots. But do so by hand, not by drills or polishers because you risk overheating the aluminum and weakening it.
Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 3:08 am
by bradbrady
As mentioned above, nothing but al. wool or scotch-bright should be used!!! Dipping either in cheep lacher thinner will expidite the cleaning prosess.
brad