Tailspring & Steering Springs
Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
Tailspring & Steering Springs
What ever you do, do not wait too long to inspect/replace your tailspring. If I would have replaced the tailspring 1 day before Saturday, the rudder would not be beat up, and other damage. Please, it is a lot cheaper to replace that spring than it is to repair the damage that can happen if it breaks. The tailspring was on the plane when I bought it a little over 4 years ago, and approaching 600 hours during this 4+ years.
After the tailspring broke, the steering springs really strecthed out and allowed the tailwheel assembly to have a longer distance to travel, thus, beating up the rudder even above the lower rudder skins.
I have heard of shorter steering springs, heavy duty springs, and the original springs. What is the best option? Part numbers would help.
After the tailspring broke, the steering springs really strecthed out and allowed the tailwheel assembly to have a longer distance to travel, thus, beating up the rudder even above the lower rudder skins.
I have heard of shorter steering springs, heavy duty springs, and the original springs. What is the best option? Part numbers would help.
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
Joe, I'm sorry that happened to you. (I thought you participated in the old Yahoo discussion about this. I recommend that anyone who doesn't know the time on their springs change them, and thereafter to change them every 5-years/500 hours.)
I also believe that it's best to stay with the original tension springs. The so-called "compression" spring mod has rec'd too much criticism from many who have tried it. Most have returned to the original set up.
I also believe that it's best to stay with the original tension springs. The so-called "compression" spring mod has rec'd too much criticism from many who have tried it. Most have returned to the original set up.
Thanks George. I did participate by reading and saying I need to get to this. I did not participate by doing the action. I just hope everyone else does the action and saves having the damage done to what remaining original rudders there are.gahorn wrote:Joe, I'm sorry that happened to you. (I thought you participated in the old Yahoo discussion about this. I recommend that anyone who doesn't know the time on their springs change them, and thereafter to change them every 5-years/500 hours.)
I also believe that it's best to stay with the original tension springs. The so-called "compression" spring mod has rec'd too much criticism from many who have tried it. Most have returned to the original set up.
The 170A Parts Catalog lists Spring and Connector Assembly P/N 0442008 under Tail Wheel Assembly. Under Pneumatic Tailwheel they have P/N 0542110-11. A good friends' 170 information was P/N 0442011-4, he has a B model. So, if you have a P/N answer it would be helpful. Trying to get the parts together before the trip back to Reklaw to work on it.
You gave GREAT advice to all of us. Maybe I should post some pictures of how bad it is if that tailspring is allowed to go past it's time.
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
The following parts are the springs and connector assemblies, which should include the chains, available from Hill Aircraft (Genuine Cessna distributor) 1-800-998-7832
0442008 CONNECTOR
(List Price: $ 15.83) Stock Available $ 18.20 (EA)
(Why their price is $3 more than LIST would be a good question to ask.)
0442008 CONNECTOR
(List Price: $ 15.83) Stock Available $ 18.20 (EA)
(Why their price is $3 more than LIST would be a good question to ask.)
Thanks George. Very helpful people there, parts are ordered.gahorn wrote:The following parts are the springs and connector assemblies, which should include the chains, available from Hill Aircraft (Genuine Cessna distributor) 1-800-998-7832
0442008 CONNECTOR
(List Price: $ 15.83) Stock Available $ 18.20 (EA)
(Why their price is $3 more than LIST would be a good question to ask.)
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
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- Posts: 230
- Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2002 11:46 pm
George,
What do you think of replacing the springs and adding another of the long springs? I thought for rough airstrips and off airport scenarios it might be wise. You could remove one of the shorter springs so they'd all fit. A longer bolt to the tailwheel casting would be neccesary as well.
Kelly
What do you think of replacing the springs and adding another of the long springs? I thought for rough airstrips and off airport scenarios it might be wise. You could remove one of the shorter springs so they'd all fit. A longer bolt to the tailwheel casting would be neccesary as well.
Kelly
It took me a moment to realize which springs you were talking of. You mean, of course, the idea of adding a second "main" leaf-spring and using a longer tailwheel attach-bolt.
That wouldn't work. The two springs through which the bolt passed would flex seperately from each other and at every landing they'd try to cut or shear the bolt. It would be a sure recipie for failure even sooner than the original design.
That wouldn't work. The two springs through which the bolt passed would flex seperately from each other and at every landing they'd try to cut or shear the bolt. It would be a sure recipie for failure even sooner than the original design.
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- Posts: 156
- Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2002 11:24 am
Got to know more about this plane!
George,
I saw this absolutely FAST looking 170 today.
It's white with Green Speed Streaks screaming down the sides. I saved it as my screen saver, but I sure would like to know more about this fast plane. The tail number is hard to catch, but it looks like N1478D or B?
Dave
I saw this absolutely FAST looking 170 today.
It's white with Green Speed Streaks screaming down the sides. I saved it as my screen saver, but I sure would like to know more about this fast plane. The tail number is hard to catch, but it looks like N1478D or B?
Dave
Doubling the main spring leaves is not a good idea. A number of people did that back in the 70s' in Alaska. The problem is that you don't get enough flex and the tail cone will break off forward of the brackets that the spring assemblyattaches to. What has worked fine is the L19 main leaf which is heavier than the 170 main springs.
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- Posts: 62
- Joined: Thu May 30, 2002 3:44 am
tail spring
Do you recomend changing out the whole spring pack or just the main leaf? I read the other day about putting in an L-19 bolt for an additional tie down point for the tail. Is this a good move? Still love my 180 gear. Russ
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- Posts: 2271
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 12:11 am
What is the big complaint about the compression springs? I have them & they work just fine. Tailwheel breaks into swivel mode when you kick it around,I had heard that was a problem but that's not the case with mine.
One thing I like about them is that they can not come unhooked accidently like the tension springs can,if there is slack in the steering chains.
Regarding replacement of tailspring(s),the main leaf is the one that always seems to break,also the one that seems to fatigue (sag) and allow the tailwheel assembly to trail (bad). I would only replace the main leaf if it was me. I've heard the theory that the L-19 main leaf may be too stout for the lighter 170,leading to stress on the tailwheel mounting bracket on the tailcone as well as stress on the tailcone itself.I think I'd probably just put on a stock 170 main leaf.
Eric
One thing I like about them is that they can not come unhooked accidently like the tension springs can,if there is slack in the steering chains.
Regarding replacement of tailspring(s),the main leaf is the one that always seems to break,also the one that seems to fatigue (sag) and allow the tailwheel assembly to trail (bad). I would only replace the main leaf if it was me. I've heard the theory that the L-19 main leaf may be too stout for the lighter 170,leading to stress on the tailwheel mounting bracket on the tailcone as well as stress on the tailcone itself.I think I'd probably just put on a stock 170 main leaf.
Eric
Re: Got to know more about this plane!
Hi, Dave! Yes. I've seen that airplane too. It's amazing what optical illusions can be created with paint. That paint scheme is so effective even the airplane's owner believes it's speedy. Poor clod.David Laseter wrote:George,
I saw this absolutely FAST looking 170 today.
It's white with Green Speed Streaks screaming down the sides. I saved it as my screen saver, but I sure would like to know more about this fast plane. The tail number is hard to catch, but it looks like N1478D or B?
Dave
Eric, I only reported what comments I've rec'd from some owners who tried the compresson springs and didn't like them. Here's one danger I see with them- IF your chains are not adjusted properly (and even if they are in some cases) as the airplane is loaded (or simply landed hard) the tension springs will only continue to stretch, while the compression springs will come against their stops, forwarding their now-rigid shock onto the tailspring bracket. The tailspring brackets (especially the earlier steel "box" shaped brackets) are notorious for cracking out the tailcone area due to transmitted stress.
Properly adjusted chains will not allow the original tension springs to go "slack". If your chains go "slack" then your chains or your leafsprings or your tailwheel needs service. The tailwheel should unlock before the chain goes slack.
Regarding the leaf springs- it's only necessary in most cases to replace the main spring. But when you do, take a moment to dress the lower trailing edge of the spring above it. Take that sharp edge off of it, radius it, and polish it with crocus or emery cloth, before installing the new main spring. A sharp edge on the spring above the mainspring will score a stress riser onto the main spring setting it back up for failure. Most mainsprings break exactly at that point.
Properly adjusted chains will not allow the original tension springs to go "slack". If your chains go "slack" then your chains or your leafsprings or your tailwheel needs service. The tailwheel should unlock before the chain goes slack.
Regarding the leaf springs- it's only necessary in most cases to replace the main spring. But when you do, take a moment to dress the lower trailing edge of the spring above it. Take that sharp edge off of it, radius it, and polish it with crocus or emery cloth, before installing the new main spring. A sharp edge on the spring above the mainspring will score a stress riser onto the main spring setting it back up for failure. Most mainsprings break exactly at that point.
Re: Got to know more about this plane!
It IS a speedy paint scheme! And, the airplane has always been able to keep up with the paint.gahorn wrote:Hi, Dave! Yes. I've seen that airplane too. It's amazing what optical illusions can be created with paint. That paint scheme is so effective even the airplane's owner believes it's speedy. Poor clod.David Laseter wrote:George,
I saw this absolutely FAST looking 170 today.
It's white with Green Speed Streaks screaming down the sides. I saved it as my screen saver, but I sure would like to know more about this fast plane. The tail number is hard to catch, but it looks like N1478D or B?
Dave
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX