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door hinges

Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2002 2:19 am
by JMACFLY
Seems like more than a few of us are looking for the upper door hinge for our C170s. The pilots door gets the most abuse and therefore wears faster. Do any of you out there have sources? Have you heard of using door hinges from different Cessna models such as early C172s?

JMACFLY

Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2002 6:57 am
by zero.one.victor
Might be that the (early) 180 upper hinges are the same,except they have covers on them. Probably no cheaper or more plentiful.

Eric

Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2002 11:58 pm
by wa4jr
Regarding door hinges...I read in the Association SRAM about stainless steel hinge pins. Mine are carbon steel, and I can see where they have rusted in the past...accelerating the wear. Does anyone know of a source for the stainless steel hinge pins?

Posted: Sun Dec 15, 2002 11:59 am
by Dave Clark
You need to be very careful to use the same size as the original pin. I took the pin out of a new lower hinge yesterday (it was riveted on each end) in order to easily pull the door without loosing the adjustment. It was brass and I'll mic it tomorrow and post the diameter. It's possible to use brazing rod I've heard. Plain steel when it rusts a little contributes to hinge problems. The upper hinge is formed then heat treated which is disturbed when one does a weld repair.

Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2002 3:54 am
by blueldr
I made my removable ringed hinge pins from .091 music wire. They have a ring on the top so they can be easily pulled out to remove the doors for loading or unloading. Makes it a lot easier when camping.

Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2002 10:38 pm
by Jeff Matthews
I've been toying with the notion of putting captive nuts inside the fuselage for easy door removal. Doesn't look like it would be all that difficult--put a set of F2000/F5000's on a doubler and rivet the doubler to the skin and former. As I recall, it would take a two-layer doubler to get over the flange on the door frame.

The advantage is that the door could only be removed when it's open, so it wouldn't be quite so simple to steal the radio. Maybe the sumbitch would go after somebody else's. Down side is that somebody who really wanted in would do more damage. I could continue to store the radios in the office when I don't need them.

Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2002 4:44 am
by blueldr
Get rid of the King radios. Nobody steals any other kind!

Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2002 7:44 pm
by Dave Clark
I finally remembered to take my mic to the hangar and by golly the original brass pin is .091".

Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2003 6:47 pm
by Curtis Brown
Has anyone replaced a door hinge? Looks like I will need to. I seem to be rusting through were the pin goes down through the top of the hinge. I found nothing in the SRAM about it and was wondering how difficult it is to drill out the rivets and replace with another hinge.
Thanks for any advice.
Curtis

door hinges

Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2003 11:00 pm
by JMACFLY
It's been about 9 weeks since I posted the door hinge message. Still no source of hinges identified.
John

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2003 11:36 am
by Dave Clark
John

I think it's because no one knows. You could be a hero if you figure it out though. I had to replace my pilots side hinges a couple of years ago and it was hard to find then. I've seen some hinges go on ebay that looked promising but they were not cheap either. remember it's a stamped, welded, and heat treated part. Tough to make one correctly.

I've got some .091 stainless hinge pin material coming.

Posted: Wed Feb 19, 2003 6:15 pm
by Curtis Brown
Dave,
What kind of labor are we looking at to replace the upper hinge on the left door. Do you have any advice for me before I get started.

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2003 2:13 pm
by Dave Clark
I was away from home and tools. Shop time was about 1 hour. It's not a big deal. It's a bigger deal if it were to fail in flight though 8O

Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2003 9:23 pm
by GAHorn
Jeff Matthews wrote:I've been toying with the notion of putting captive nuts inside the fuselage for easy door removal. Doesn't look like it would be all that difficult--put a set of F2000/F5000's on a doubler and rivet the doubler to the skin and former. As I recall, it would take a two-layer doubler to get over the flange on the door frame.

The advantage is that the door could only be removed when it's open, so it wouldn't be quite so simple to steal the radio. Maybe the sumbitch would go after somebody else's. Down side is that somebody who really wanted in would do more damage. I could continue to store the radios in the office when I don't need them.
The only thing necessary to steal your radios is tin snips, or hammer, or hole saw, or sturdy wheel chocks, etc. to cut/break through your side windows in a flash.

Posted: Sun Feb 23, 2003 12:47 pm
by Dave Clark
As been said before, keys and locks only keep the honest people honest! The rest will find a way. I've seen the door pins bent at the bottom which would slow a thief as much as anything. You need to use a Dremel tool and cut off wheel to make it easy to get the pin out. I like that system.