The International Cessna^® 170 Association

I have a 170a and looking for details on the rudder cable fairlead under the horiz. stab. Mine are corroded off at the rivits. Are they rolled aluminum or are they aluminum and formica? The B parts book calls them formica but tha A book is not detailed enough.

Jim Wildharber went thru this a couple years ago, and I've asked him to join the discussion. They were originally aluminum brackets with phenolic inserts. Some were nylon. They are still available from Cessna.

The fairlead itself is: Pn S338-10 FAIRLEAD HALF
(List Price: $ 2.90) Stock Available $ 2.47 (EA)

Available from Hill aircraft: 1-800-998-7832

The bracket is PN 0412142, and is depicted on pg 48, item 16 of the 170B IPC.

Are they the same fairlead that is used in other places in the fuselage? If so I have some extras. I may need to make the bracket out of 2024.

DonnieR,

I went through this problem in 2003 on my 1955 C-170B, UGH There is a write up of problem/solution in the 1st Quarter 2004 170 NEWS, if you can find a copy. Looking at the Illustrated Parts Catalog (IPC) for the A (Fig. 22-82) and B (Fig. 25-16) models, it appears the bracket is not the same between the two models. However, on the B model (Fig.65-27) the fairlead part number is #6 Formica which was changed to S338-10. On the A model (Fig. 49-7) the part number is 0510120. Hopefully the part is the same on the A & B models. If George's info is correct on the price for the fairlead I would buy it and try it out.

When I tried to find parts for repair, the fairleads and brackets were not available. So, I had new brackets fabricated, using aircraft hardware, with the correct built-in 10 degree cable alignment angle. I also had new phenolic fairleads turned down, from 1/4 inch formica flat stock, on a lathe, using an old fairlead (found in belly of plane) as a pattern.

On the B model, I had to remove rudder, elevators, and stabilizers, in order to get to the fairlead brackets.

Below is the Left Fairlead and Bracket installed. Note the angle of the rudder cable as it passes thru the fuselage. Also note the slot cut in the tubing. The slot is there so you can slip the rudder cable into the bracket, followed by the fairlead, prior to installing the fairlead clamp.
Below is the Right Fairlead and Bracket installed.
The trick to welding the tubing, in which the fairlead is held, is to tack it at the right angle. I used a protractor to measure the angle between the rudder cable and fuselage to get it right. The original factory part already had the angle built in.....but of course you can not find a new part anymore. Make sure everything is zinc chromated before bolting or riveting the bracket to the fuselage.. Call me if you have questions. I am in the membership directory.

In the Cessna 170 Book on pg. 111 the writer has a blurb about making some phenolic cylinders to fit inside an Adel clamp. I think he didn't realize that his plane was missing the original phenolic guides for he says, "I cannot understand how the FAA bought a metal guide for this control cable: no phenolic, no teflon, no plastic, no composition material for the cable to ride in." Still he has a good idea for making your own fairlead and fairlead attach bracket.

Here's a picture of the rudder fairlead guides, rudder cable fairleads, and the other larger fairleads to compare these to. These are from the B model 170.

CAUTION

At various Board meetings, it was pointed out the article in The 170 Book on page 111 should not be followed. The Board agreed that the next edition of The 170 Book would have this article removed. N2582D pointed out the obvious problems. The subtle ones are if Adel clamps are used, at least on the 170B model, the rudder cables will bind against the Adel clamps. End result is the cable will saw thru the clamp. How does this occur? Because the tailcone tapers towared the rear, the cable exits the fuselage at a 10 degree angle. So, when the Adel clamp is attached flush with the fuselage, the stage is set for the cable to cut thru the clamp. I know, I found a sawed thru clamp in the tail of my plane, that was installed by a previous owner.

Follow the IPC, then you will not have future problems.

n2582d wrote:In the Cessna 170 Book on pg. 111 the writer has a blurb about making some phenolic cylinders to fit inside an Adel clamp. I think he didn't realize that his plane was missing the original phenolic guides for he says, "I cannot understand how the FAA bought a metal guide for this control cable: no phenolic, no teflon, no plastic, no composition material for the cable to ride in." Still he has a good idea for making your own fairlead and fairlead attach bracket.

Here's a picture of the rudder fairlead guides, rudder cable fairleads, and the other larger fairleads to compare these to. These are from the B model 170.

P1010667.JPG

Rudder cable fairlead.jpg

The two parts in the left of the picture and the two parts in top right of the picture are exactly what was installed on my 170A.. As I recall the bracket with the flange was actually manufactured of aluminum. It use the same bracket on both sides. One with the flange installed up and the other with the flange installed down so that the cable was centered in the exit slot of the fuselage skin. In the album on Tail whhel .com are pictures of my rebuilt tail cone. I was hoping I had a picture lookin down into the tail whhel after I re-installed the fairlead brackets but there was not one there. The spring clip that retained the phenolic fair leads was wire. The picture of thw Sir clip snap ring is a good soulutionif nothing else is available. Moderate help I know

Jim

http://www.tailwheel.com/forums/index.p ... m&album=45

Thanks for all the help. I am going to order the fairleads and make the brackets. this is the last part needed to finish the tail rebuild (skin, tailwheel bracket, angles, bulkhead ect........)
Hope to finnish the fus. before long and start the wings.

As a result of participating in this forum I have learned a great deal about my 170. The Rudder Fairlead discussion is a great example. The discussion inspired me to go looking for the Rudder Fairleads on my aircraft - with a little effort and reference to the IPC - I found mine and was able to inspect them, sort of with a flashlight. If I hadn't been monitoring the forum I would have otherwise never known wat a Fairlead was or the significance of it. Mine appear to be in good condition. I would hate to have to replace them, it appears I would basically have to dismantle the tail section.

Just replacing the fairlead isn't too bad if you have small enough hands. When I changed the rudder cables I removed the bellcrank to elevator tube (B parts manual Fig 67 Index 37) which gave me just enough room to get my hand through the opening. I then passed myself a pair of needle nose through the slot. Ended up with a lot of scrapes and a little blood but it was alot quicker than the alternative. The scary part of replacing the cables was when I removed the bolt that attach the cables to the rudder bar. The bolts (Fig 65 Index 2) were worn almost 1/3 of the way through.

Mine is not hard to get to at this time. I started the project 3 years ago. The aircraft had been disassembled and stored for several years. When I first got the plane I thought it would take about a year to clean-up and assemble. After 3 years of part time work the fus. is almost finnished. In my defence I can not do anything the easy way. I had to disassemble from the doorpost forward due to gearbox corrosion so that just got the ball rolling so to speak. Some new skins, control yoke, inst pnl, IO360 and related fuel sys. and before you know it 3 years have past.If anyone would like to see it I will try to post some picts. may start a new thread on the project. I am stuck in Battle Creek MI. babysitting one of our airplanes for a week or two so I have some time to spend online.

Please do post your photo's.

Been trying says image invalid?

trying to post a pict

It has been sugested that sense I am doing a engine conversion, I can tie into that thread and describe what I have been working on. I will try to post some picts there.