The International Cessna^® 170 Association

To the point where I am going to reinstall my wing root fairings, and I was looking for input on maybe installing nut plates and attaching them with maybe AN525 screws instead of rivets. Seems like it would be nice to be able to take them off easier, allow better access into the flap mechanism. But maybe it is not that important??

Well I can't remember seeing any aircraft modified that way, not that it might not be a bad idea. Just that if it was advantageous I'm sure you would see the modification on many aircraft but you just don't see it.

learaviator wrote:To the point where I am going to reinstall my wing root fairings, and I was looking for input on maybe installing nut plates and attaching them with maybe AN525 screws instead of rivets. Seems like it would be nice to be able to take them off easier, allow better access into the flap mechanism. But maybe it is not that important??

Your Idea is quite legal.....It's just the way I'd do it....Brad

I like it.

Thanks for the input guys, I will get started on it soon! I just needed a little push to make me take the headliner out, it needs replacing anyway.

BEWARE the ides of "might as wells."
The problem is knowing where to stop. It takes alot longer but you end up with a lot nicer airplane when you are finally done and satisfied. By the way have you considered putting in a canehandle parking brake? Really nice having a dependable brake in some situations. Baggage doors are really handy too,I haven't got to that one yet but ask George he likes them also. Brian

I will never do a "cane-handle" parking brake because it re-installs the cable yoke and locking levers. (At least the one I'm familiar with does.) I might consider a parking brake valve someday in my spare time, just to give rise to some more needle-ing from you guys.

This style uses a cable attached to where your rudder pedals attach to the brake cylinder. The brake is set when you pull the handle, pulling on another cable attached to a small bellcrank. As the bellcrank pivots, it pulls down on the brake master cylinders locking the brakes. No tabs involved. They were used in " newer" 172's on up. Installed by field approval. Brian

OH, yes! Thanks for reminding me about that particular installation.

Yeah, it probably works just fine. (I've never found myself where I absolutely needed a park brake however, so I probably still won't do that. Maybe if I had one I'd become addicted to it like my baggage door, tho'.)

Yeah, I am afraid a baggage door is in my future. I have not used my baggage area yet, heck I haven't even flown the plane since I brought it home. But I can already tell that reaching over that back seat will get old, at least for me.

I may be mistaken (generally am) when it comes to nut plates, etc. But, if I understand correctly how nut plates are installed it seems to me it would result in three screws per position in place of one rivet? Or, two rivets per nut plate and one screw?

gahorn wrote:I will never do a "cane-handle" parking brake because it re-installs the cable yoke and locking levers. (At least the one I'm familiar with does.) I might consider a parking brake valve someday in my spare time, just to give rise to some more needle-ing from you guys.

I agree with you ,George, I'd never put a chain brake lock back in a 170.....It works fine in my 172, but that is a different instillation. I have been thinking about a way to use a pressure lock system, (ie Piper) but that adds problems also, because the piper system is a Bi*** to bleed.....premilary due to the pressure lock cylinder.....Brad

George, if you do the cane parking brake and wing root fairings, and you did the baggage door & extra landing lights and if I remember you have some back seat, or maybe front seat, reading lamps,etc., you'll be in contension for the"most modified" B model 170

I like the baggage door mod and a cane parking brake, ala 52 + Ford as well as a lot of others. That would be a nice thing to have. Unlike you George, I miss my parking brake. I've managed to get by without it, but there are times when it sure would be nice to have one.

Robert Eilers wrote:I may be mistaken (generally am) when it comes to nut plates, etc. But, if I understand correctly how nut plates are installed it seems to me it would result in three screws per position in place of one rivet? Or, two rivets per nut plate and one screw?

Robert,
your not wrong....nut plates are going to take two more (Holes) and rivets per instillation.....But also for a non structural instillation (ie wing root fairings) you can use riv-nuts....which give you the same structural format as the rivets you just removed....and allow access to the root in the future....which makes sense to me...Brad

170C wrote:George, if you do the cane parking brake and wing root fairings, and you did the baggage door & extra landing lights and if I remember you have some back seat, or maybe front seat, reading lamps,etc., you'll be in contension for the"most modified" B model 170

George, by the time you're done with all this, it probably would have been easier to buy a 172 and just stick a tailwheel on it!