The International Cessna^® 170 Association

Thanks for the suggestions. I like the idea of mounting it up front on the pilot's side for the reasons you shared.

Any advice on the rear seat? Is there a trick that allows you to slide it in/out without gouging wall panels or windows in the process, or is it destined to be a 2 person (or more) job involving blood, sweat, and tears every time?

-Kennet

Next time you have it out...replace those bolts that hinge the rear seat-back with clevis-pins so you can remove the back first. (Many times just removing the back allows the access desired without having to remove the seat-bottom, but either way, with the back removed, the seat bottom is a much-simpler job because it allows the botton to be rotated lengthwise/otherwise-manipulated to be removed.

That's so brilliantly simple! Thanks a lot!

rydfly wrote:That's so brilliantly simple! Thanks a lot!

It is, thanks George .....just got my 45 bucks worth again


W.

W.J.Langholz wrote:

rydfly wrote:That's so brilliantly simple! Thanks a lot!

It is, thanks George .....just got my 45 bucks worth again


W.

That's me! Brilliantly simple!

Don't forget that if you don't use "quick-release-pins" ... you must remember to orient
them correctly or you'll still not be able to remove them and get the seat-back out first.
(You need to be able to pull the pin INWARD to make this worthwhile.)

My seat-back, ...uhmmm..."backing".... is "Velcroe'd"....and therefore capable of being pulled away to
reveal the pin. Here's a pic:
Here's the type sold by Aircraft Spruce:


Here's their link: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/t ... ckPins.php

(But I got mine elsewhere.)

Otherwise, genuine "clevis" pins will work as long as they are inserted from inboard-to-outboard.

Thanks for the photo, George! That's looking at the rear of the seat-back, through your baggage-compartment door, right?

I have custom upholstery on mine, and I've been trying to figure out how to do this. I need to look at it again in light of what you've shown us.

Thanks again!

John

I use an AN392 clevis pin and a lockpin. The corner of my rear seat upholstery stitching is slit enough for me to get a few fingers inside in order to place the pin through the seat frame. Not as large as George's opening and really needing nothing for it to disappear.

When actually putting the back of the seat in place all that is needed is a single finger in the slit to push the clevis pin through the bottom seat frame. Then using my other hand to slip the lockpn through the hole in the clevis pin which can be seen between the seat and the side cabin wall. Much easier seen and done than described. Georges' pin would work as well but perhaps not as positively locked in place.

jrenwick wrote:Thanks for the photo, George! That's looking at the rear of the seat-back, through your baggage-compartment door, right?

I have custom upholstery on mine, and I've been trying to figure out how to do this. I need to look at it again in light of what you've shown us.

Thanks again!

John

That's correct, John. My seat-back uphostery is only VELCRO-ed onto the tubing in the lower-rear corners, so it's an easy matter to peel the backing up at the corner to access the pins.

The small, spring-loaded "ball" holds it in place just fine with no sign of looseness, but relies upon the hole being the correct size and not "wallowed" out. Remember that the seat back is "captive" between the sidewalls and bottom-brackets and does not need a secure fastener to keep it in position. It merely needs a pivot-point which almost any pin, clevis, or bolt will serve. In fact, a common AN-bolt without a nut...using only a cotter thru the drilled hole in the threads... is all that's required.

If one prefers not to purchase the clevis pins from one of the usual aircraft suppliers one can purchase them from their local aircraft (Tractor Supply )dealer

What diameter are the pins you are using? My rear seat isn't currently available for measurements

I is a 1/4" pin and you want about 1-1/4" long.