The International Cessna^® 170 Association

So yesterday my oil temp cable broke right at the F&M adapter where it exits from the probe. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement?
Thank you...Len

if you have the original type gauge that is not a cable.... it is a capillary,
and it is integral with the gage.
you must replace the gauge.
be careful... do not overtighten that fitting, or you
can break it again....and lose ALL your oil infight.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, it appears to be a capillary. Any idea on where to find a replacement for that or is there a better alternative to use with the F & M adapter?
Thank you.

The gauge can also be repaired, if you can stand the down-time. Keystone Instruments in Lock Haven, PA - and other shops that have been mentioned here - can do it.

I used the Rochester gauge available at Spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/i ... auges1.php

I just can't remember if I bought the 60 or 72 inch capillary.

Is it possible to have the markings silk screened onto the face?
I hate having it painted on the glass.

bagarre wrote:Is it possible to have the markings silk screened onto the face?
I hate having it painted on the glass.

Anything is po$$$$ible. If you have the original and want the original markings have Keystone repair it. If you want new or don't have the original have Keystone repaint the face of a new one.

po$$$$ible is right

I just called Keystone and in order to pop it open and silk screen it, they have to re-test/calibrate and yellow tag it.
Even if I sent them a brand new one, they still have to do all that.
And that costs $265.00ish

Suddenly, I don't mind Testors paint so much.

it's quite easy to do it yourself...
the rim is soft aluminum, using an exacto knife,
circumscribe/lift the rim, turn the gauge over,
catch the glass lens as it falls out,
paint the limits on the face,
reinstall the lens, and use a cuticle stick
to re-seal the rim to the gauge.

Recertify the gauge by sticking the bulb in boiling water.

Addendum: BTW, when prying the rim off the gauge, it is best to open the rim from the BACK side of the rim, in order that the completed project not show any evidence of the gauge-rim having been R/R'd.

What George said, and maybe you don't have to use paint: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/c ... kdecal.php