The "BNC" connector comment is telling.... The plain steel "rod" (radiator) antenna is usually a 1/4-wave antenna and has no "gain", while most "BNC" equipped antennas (which are usually metal radiators encased in foam and reinforced with fiberglass) have Gain designed into them. This results from "gain" in capacitance and diminished electrical-loss-of-signal which occurs to plain-rod/radiator antennas. (The plain antenna "leaks" signal back into it's own mount, while the fiberglass antenna is insulated from that problem.)
In other words, an antenna with "gain" is more efficient than plain, monopole antennas. (Hey! I used to be a C-B nut, and if you want to know about antenna gain/loss/SWR (standing-wave-ratios) then you need to find a CB radio nut!)
"Gain" is a term which describes an increase in performance over plain-radiator antennas. An antenna with gain (usually measured in decibles or "dBs", will broadcast and receive farther/thru more interference than a non-gain antenna, other conditions being equal.
The other situation, one to which Bruce's friend was referring, is the radiation
pattern of the antenna. This is affected by what is known as a "ground-plane". Think of it this way: If you skip a rock off the pond, the rock tries to bounce back up into the air and goes farther. Your wing is like the pond, and the radio broadcast signal is the rock. If the antenna is mounted on top of your wing, it will broadcast farther above your wing than below it. If the antenna is mounted beneath your airplane, it will broadcast better to receivers below the airplane. (There's a reason transponder antennas are mounted on the bottom.)

This is also a form of "gain".
Small airplanes like ours, which spend the predominant part of their lives below 12k feet are not likely to benefit from bottom-mounted antennas as much as King Airs/Jets which run around in the Flight Levels. Our Cessnas are also more likely to be operated where grass/weeds/rocks and armadillos might strike and injure a bottom-mount antenna, not to mention the loss of signal from all the engine oil and exhaust residue which may build up on it. When you're within 5 miles of the tower (such as when taxying around on the ground) it rarely makes any difference where your antenna is mounted. It probably makes more difference if you're trying to talk to them while you're parked in a "dead spot" behind the mx hangar...move over 100 feet and try calling them again before you start relocating antennas on the airplane.
Another matter which affects broadcast capability is your transmitters power output. This is typically measured/described as power in WATTS, and usually measured at the point of transmission cable/antenna cable outlet of the radio, and is called PEP for (Peak Envelope Power). This is usually limited by design so radios don't interfere with other nearby radios.
Check YOUR transmitter's output (see the specification brochure which came with it.) Typical low-cost aircraft radios are rated at 5 watts PEP, while better units are rated at 10 watts PEP, and higher quality units (designed for high performance, high altitude aircraft) may be rated at 20 watts or higher.
The FIRST thing you should do is check your antenna-ground to make certain it is properly grounded to clean connection to metal on the airframe. If not, then it will have poor "ground plane" and will not broadcast very far. Also, a related problem will be the cable and connectors between your radio and your antenna. Old cable, and multiple connectors will steal the power from your transmitter. GET RID of unnecessary connectors. Also, do not fall for the old trap of having a "splitter" or second radio and/or antenna attached to the same radio. (Some folks have added a connector so they can patch-in their handheld radio to their outside antenna which is already in-use by their main radio. This deteriorates the performance of their main radio output, and also hazards the final amplifier of BOTH radios.
The NEXT thing to do is have your transmitter checked for power output to determine if it's final amplifier is putting out rated power.
The THIRD thing is to use a field-strength meter (cheap from Radio Shack or borrowed from any CB-Nut) and walk around your airplane while your transmitter is activated to determine the pattern of broadcast. Only then will you know if antenna relocation will improve anything for you. (I suspect your location is just fine...your problem is poor transmitter output, poor antenna performance, or leaking antenna cable.**)
**While on the subject of antenna cables... there is a recent improvement in design, and if you find your cable is OLD...and if you replace it, put the good stuff in there. The OLD cable nomenclature was RG-58 while a more modern/more efficient cable these days is RG-400....it has less loss of signal. Also, if you have multiple BNC connectors between your transmitter and your antenna, get rid of them. Each connector results in loss of signal...eventually you may only put out a fraction of your transmitter's power...AND... transmission losses, such as reflected power and connector losses, is hard on your transmitter and will eventually result in early failure of the radio.
Also, occasionally it is found that a radio transmitter is connected to an improper-length antenna. While an old LORAN antenna may LOOK like a COMM antenna.... if it is so used, it will result in huge loss of signal and MAY damage the transmitter due to power being reflected back into the unit. This will overheat the final amplifier and eventually cause failure.
Anyway.... I didn't mean to tell you how to build a clock when all you want is to know the time...but relocating your antenna a few inches or a foot will unlikely solve the probem any more than cleaning up the electrical-contact with it's present location. (It may mislead you into believing the location solved the problem when in reality what you did was give it a fresh, un-corroded mounting which improved it's ground-plane/radiation-pattern. Address all the issues I previously mentioned, first.)
Here's where my antenna is mounted (right next to all the water-spots that dried before I wiped it down). It's a Dorne and Margolin C63-1/A for a top-mount, ...they also make a C63-2/A for a bottom mount. It actually has no more gain than a standard, steel, qtr-wave antenna, and it's driven by a 10-watt Narco 810+, but I've NEVER had any problems from any facility whether I'm airborne or not, regardless of distance or weather, and it's mounted about the same place as yours.
Here's the technicals and pricing (about $150) from Spruce:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/a ... mC63_1.php
Here's the bottom mount version (about $200):
