Bruce Fenstermacher wrote:.... BTW have you priced a plastic 5 gallon gas can lately. They are like $20 and more and they don't have a vent thanks to the EPA.....
Reviewing this thread I came across Bruce's comment and thought I'd suggest what I did to my ten 5-gallon gas cans I keep avgas in the hangar.
I bought some plastic add-on vents which work like a champ. Dril a 1/2" hole, and snap in the vent. VOILA!
Just be aware some of the plastic shavings from the 1/2" wood-spade-drill
41Cn6bLrO2L._AA160_.jpg
that may fall into the can need to be blown out our removed or filtered next time you use the can.
NOTE: These ones depicted suggest a 31/64 drill bit to make the hole. The ones I got instructions said to use a 1/2" wood bit to drill the hole....which I did and it does NOT leak. I suspect it's due to the straight-sided wood bit that it works so well. If you use common jobber-bits I suspect it may be too large for the device if you use 1/2" and that may be why the instructions stipulate 31/64 bit. In fact, when I used the 1/2" wood bit I had to install the plastic vent by placing it in position...and striking it with a hammer to "snap" it IN...because my hand simply wasn't up to the task.
These are the cat's meow.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention. An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
Or if you are cheap put a used valve stem in the same place. Drill a hole, thread a line through the hole out of the filler and use that to pull in the valve stem. Use the dust cap as the vent lid (no valve).
I hope the duys using plastic gas "Cans" realize that they heed to be "Electrically Bonded" to the airplane when pouring gas in A few years ago, one of the fellows up in his hangar had flash fire start when he was pouring fuel into his Commanche 400. As luck would have it, one of his buddies was standing there with a dry chemical fire extinguisher and caught it instantly. He only got some superficial burns on his hands and arms, but it would have been a fatal catastrophe without the quick action of his friend. He had normally been doing the refueling in the same manner, but alone, for years.
The plastic gas cans need to remain in physical contact with the vehicle whenever gas is being served. Keep the nozzle in contact with the filler neck.
Do not wear synthetic clothing. Discharge yourself against the metal of the vehicle and keep yourself in contact with the vehicle. Never leave the filling operation and return to it, for you may have created an electrical charge in your absence and returning to the vapors can cause a fire.
Keep fire extinguishers nearby and remember....if YOU are consumed in flames you will not likely be able to SEE to retrieve a fire extinguisher. Keep it within easy reach.
These comments are valid even when using public refueling facilities.
Recently I stopped at a truck stop while driving my own pickup and refueled. I inserted the nozzle and locked the trigger and began cleaning my windshield.
Suddenly, someone shouted "Hey ! You're pumping gas!"
I replied in surprise, "Yes.... SO..???"
What had happened is the tank filled and the auto-shut-off failed to stop the flow of gas and about 20 feet of gasoline was pouring out and under my pickup truck. I ran to grab the nozzle and turn it off and of course now had gasoline all over my shoe-soles and lower pants legs from the splash and now I'm standing in a 20-foot circle of gasoline with a truck fuel cap OFF the filler neck. It could have been a horrible disaster.
(And now how do you move the vehicle away from the hazard all beneath it? Start it? Push it? Get away from it?)
I have a re-newed interest in how I go about refueling my cars.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention. An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
Anyone needing to buy new 5gal plastic fuel cans, look at VP Racing cans. They seal without leaking, have vents, flexible spouts, and NO safety valves. Expensive but tough and excellent quality. I have been using them for several years.
Richard Pulley
2014-2016 TIC170A Past President
1951 170A, N1715D, s/n 20158, O-300D
2023 Best Original 170A at Sault Ste. Marie
Owned from 1973 to 1984.
Bought again in 2006 after 22 years.
It's not for sale!
gahorn wrote:The plastic gas cans need to remain in physical contact with the vehicle whenever gas is being served. Keep the nozzle in contact with the filler neck.
Do not wear synthetic clothing. Discharge yourself against the metal of the vehicle and keep yourself in contact with the vehicle. Never leave the filling operation and return to it, for you may have created an electrical charge in your absence and returning to the vapors can cause a fire.
Keep fire extinguishers nearby and remember....if YOU are consumed in flames you will not likely be able to SEE to retrieve a fire extinguisher. Keep it within easy reach.
These comments are valid even when using public refueling facilities.
Recently I stopped at a truck stop while driving my own pickup and refueled. I inserted the nozzle and locked the trigger and began cleaning my windshield.
Suddenly, someone shouted "Hey ! You're pumping gas!"
I replied in surprise, "Yes.... SO..???"
What had happened is the tank filled and the auto-shut-off failed to stop the flow of gas and about 20 feet of gasoline was pouring out and under my pickup truck. I ran to grab the nozzle and turn it off and of course now had gasoline all over my shoe-soles and lower pants legs from the splash and now I'm standing in a 20-foot circle of gasoline with a truck fuel cap OFF the filler neck. It could have been a horrible disaster.
(And now how do you move the vehicle away from the hazard all beneath it? Start it? Push it? Get away from it?)
I have a re-newed interest in how I go about refueling my cars.
I've seen pumps stuck a few times in my life. I don't trust them and alway stand by.
I've also seen a car fire (under the hood) at a pump. Self preservation kicked I and I got the hell away from it.
The attendant walked over, put the pump back and pushed the still burning car away to a parking spot. IMO, dumb as hell cuz if it went up, he had no chance and a car ain't worth a life.
I tried the valve stem trick and it works for while or that is how it worked for me. To me it seems the gas eats away at the rubber and I have had a couple come apart. I have also had them partially pop out with pressure. Just my experience with them. However they are fairly cheap and easy to find so replacement is not an issue.
As for the rest of the conversation. You guys make me nervous about things I've for years. I'm almost scared to walk out of my house. I'm standing on a ladder just hoping it don't give it up on my slightly over weight butt, trying to work the fancy saftey release mechanism on the jug so it will let the gas out plus hold a water/debris filter in place plus somehow keep the spout in contact with the filler next the whole time (if you don't have one of the vents discussed here that could be a long hold time) and I have to be selective of what cloths I wear. I'm doomed.
My playground....
35°58’52.01” N 93°06’27.51” W
'54 170B White and Green with a hint of Red
Yes, gasoline will rot the butyl rubber typically used for inner tubes and valve stems. (Just like tires don't do well with gasoline either.)
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention. An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
I made that tire stem vent post March of 2013. I'd modified my cans before that. So it's at least 2 years and I haven't had to replace a stem yet. A friend gave me a box of about 50 new tire stems. I think I'm set for a while.
I also use bike tire tubes cut in appropriate lengths, stretched over the gas can spout to make a long nozzle that doesn't leak. In this purpose the bike tubes only last about 5 years or so. What usually happens is the ends crack and start to rip and I cut them shorter. Eventually they are to short and I throw them out. I have actually bought brand new bike tubes to cut for this purpose.
OK you guys caught me in a small fib. I don't throw out the short tubes. I cut them into 1/2" wide rubber bands and use them around the garage to bind things. But if they break I throw them out.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
John Renwick
Minneapolis, MN
Former owner, '55 C-170B, N4401B
'42 J-3 Cub, N62088
'50 Swift GC-1B, N2431B, Oshkosh 2009 Outstanding Swift Award, 2016 Best Continuously Maintained Swift
jrenwick wrote:Bruce, I think you could seek help for this!
John I know you're joking but it is not far from the truth.
George and others are right that the rubber will be deteriorated by the gas, specially if it is continually immersed in it. But I have not found it an intolerable trait for the purpose mentioned.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
I wondered who he was binding up in the garage with inner-tubes.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention. An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
I think you might have some higher quality valve stems then I. Although I have not had this issue with all of them at this point but I also don't pull on them to see how close they are to coming apart. Could be I need to not fill them as full as I do so the gas is not in contact as much during transport. I like to make the most of my trip when I go. I think two out of 8 jugs have come apart. The other issue I have with the valve stems is I bought the stems that are around 1.5 inches long. I ended up with some shorter ones around an inch or so but an 1.5 inches sticking out the back of the jug tends to get hit by me or when they are positioned in the back of the truck I tend to make a mistake and set the jugs so the stem either hits my tool box or one of the other jugs and for me they are semi-easily dislodged from the opening. For the jugs I own I had to put the vent right at the bottom or the jug handle or I could not get the valve stem to feed through the hole. Of course thinking about it now I think that was the last flat spot on the jug as the handle is rounding so I don't think the stem would seal there anyway.
As i said they are fairly cheap so I'm just buying the shorter ones now help avoid knocking them out.
Justin
My playground....
35°58’52.01” N 93°06’27.51” W
'54 170B White and Green with a hint of Red
The stems I used are not special or of any particular high quality. They may be better quality however than you have found. My stems are short and meant for use in small wheels such as found on lawn equipment.
If the valve gets dislodged from the hole then the hole is probably too big. As for where you could have installed it, yes you need a fairly flat spot but location shouldn't be a problem fishing the in the valve. Take a suitable fish wire like a coat hanger and fish it in the vent hole and back out the filler hole. Then with the shrader valve removed from the stem, string it on the fish wire. Pull the fish wire back inserting the stem into the hole. Grab the stem and pull it fully into the hole. Remove the fish wire.
When I first did this mod, I hedged by bet that it would work fine. The hole I drilled for the valve stem is the same size required for the plastic valves shown in this thread. I may be lucky but I haven't had to buy any plastic valves yet.
BTW when I fill my string trimmers and other small equipment I actually use the valve stem as the nozzle to get a small stream and avoid over filling and spilling that normally takes place when filling these little tanks.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Cessna® is a registered trademark of Textron Aviation, Inc. The International Cessna® 170 Association is an independent owners/operators association dedicated to C170 aircraft and early O-300-powered C172s. We are not affiliated with Cessna® or Textron Aviation, Inc. in any way.
you guys caught me in a small fib. I don't throw out the short tubes. I cut them into 1/2" wide rubber bands and use them around the garage to bind things. But if they break I throw them out. 
