44C Annual issues - need advice

[bagarre]

can you over drill the holes and put bushings in?

[170C]

Looks like you have a PROJECT No doubt you will end up with really good results based on what we have seen with the RC you are building (Any updates on it?). I am sure we have members who can give you guidance on each of your questions. I have one suggestion regarding cleaning the gunk under the rudder pedals, etc. DON'T USE GASOLINE Yea, I have used it all my life to clean things and 100LL cleans better than most, but it is really dangerous. One spark and BOOM, you have a flash or fire which can do a lot of damage to whatever you are working on, but more importantly TO YOU. Please use caution and find another cleaner.
The other suggestion I have is regarding replacing the rollers on the flaps. I did this several years ago and it was pretty much a bear. You have to work through those small access holes in the flaps so there isn't much room for fingers, etc. You will want to make an alignment tool so you can line up the new rollers, washers, etc. as you install the new ones. Spruce sells a tool for this (p. 230 in their catalogue-$38.90 + shipping), but you can make your own from a piece of bar stock and a bolt that you put a nut on either side of the bar with a hole in it to accept the bolt. The other end of the bolt can be ground to a tapered point to facilitate its going through the rollers and help line up the bolt you removed. I know this isn't a very good description of what I made, but as you open the access holes you will be able to see what you need to use when putting in the new rollers. Having a helper is important for this job. Getting the nut started on the bolt became a challenge for me and my assistant. Had to finally use Super Glue to stick the nut to my finger so I could reach and align the nut to get it started. I am sure there is a tool that will accomplish this task, but we didn't have one available so we used the Rube Goldburg method Good luck with your project. Let us know how it goes.

[DWood]

Arash

The fittings are called out as;

AN837-4D (45 degree) and AN833-4D (90 degree) per the IPC. The nuts are AN924-4D

I would have the airbox welded and also check the shaft / bushings (a kit is available).

Looks like hours of fun!

Dan

[DWood]

Arash:
I understand being busy. Just finished the annual on mine after it was out for several months.
Where has this year gone?
Dan

[Ryan Smith]

Does the yoke on the rudder pedals wear, or just the outside? That looks like a simple enough piece that could be made and re-riveted to your rudder pedal...though a bushing would probably be the easiest retrofit.

Have you been on eBay recently? There have been a set of rudder pedals with the entire torque tube assembly listed on there several times. I haven't checked recently to see if they're still there, and don't know if they'd be any better than yours are now.

[DWood]

Arash
The holes in your rudder pedals look round and are not near the edge. You might talk with your IA about boring to the next size of bushing stock and put a washer on each side. The larger hole will wear less than the original smaller hole as there is more surface area.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/m ... ushing.php

[bagarre]

I have the Flap install tool if you want to borrow it.
Or you could easily make one - but I wouldn't try doing the rollers without something.

If only they put those little inspection holes in a slightly different place

For the outboard rollers, you can get them thru the end of the flap with a really long extension.

You'll also want two universal joints and short sockets with extensions.
Very good ratchets with little play are time savers too.


A 90 degree driver would be a serious help as well if you can find one cheap enough.
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-022 ... B000GV1UJS
or
http://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Tools-482 ... B0067YUYE0



Super glue the washers to the nuts. This one is close to the fuel valve when it comes to patience.

[Lopez]

I think I have a set of old rudder pedals in good shape if you're interested.

Aeropodinc at gmail dot com

[sfarringer]

My rudder pedals were pretty poor shape when I bought my 170.
Here is what we did to repair them.
It was useful to have a lathe and milling machine.
As I recall, it was a bit of a nuisance figuring out exactly where the center should be located.

DSCN1331_smaller.jpg

DSCN1335_smaller.jpg

DSCN1349_smaller.jpg

DSCN1355_smaller.jpg

DSCN1356_smaller.jpg

[bagarre]

My rudder pedals were pretty poor shape when I bought my 170.
Here is what we did to repair them.
It was useful to have a lathe and milling machine.
As I recall, it was a bit of a nuisance figuring out exactly where the center should be located.

DSCN1331_smaller.jpg

DSCN1335_smaller.jpg

DSCN1349_smaller.jpg

DSCN1355_smaller.jpg

DSCN1356_smaller.jpg

That's nice work and looks like a fun little project!

[n2582d]

Steve that is some beautiful workmanship! Here's how not to repair elongated holes:

IMG_1007.JPG

I had the hole welded by a certified welder but, because the aluminum is heat treated, the area around the weld cracked. My thought was to weld the hole then drill it and press fit some bronze bushings in.

Arash, looks like some great projects lined up! Watch out for the "might as well" disease though. For example, as long as you are buried under the panel "might as well" replace that cracked engine mount bushing on the firewall, ... if you're replacing one "might as well" replace them all. And it looks like the master cylinder mounts (0411550 and 0411549) are aluminum which are prone to cracking. The new ones are steel. "Might as well" replace all of those.

The bushings which evaporated are p/n NAS42-6-8 which has been superseded by p/n NAS42HT6-8 -- $2.00 from Premier Aviation. I would try nylon washers p/n 04-00218 from Aircraft Spruce for 3 cents each.

[c170b53]

I replaced my flap bearings two years ago on spec as I thought it was time, like maybe 20 in service or more years. I bought the gauge and tool as well. Really nothing was wrong, tracks were within spec, bearings all rotated and no flat spots. Inspecting for wear of the flap arms caused by the roller ends is a good idea and a good reason for installing the wear washers details in SEB95-3. I have the measuring gauge and install tool which can be mailed to you if you need them. A 2 1/2 nail through a small length of alum tube might work just as well.

[hilltop170]

Arash-
As far as re-bushing the rudder pedals, I would weld in a single piece of aluminum tubing thru both holes of the correct internal diameter to fit the pin. Then cut the tubing away on each side, leaving the remaining bushings as wide as you can, while still being able to re-fit the pin. The wider bearing area would never wear out again.

[c170b53]

I just looked at the previous posts, looks like the install tool can be fashioned in a few ways. For me I found it much easier to work away from the work, using a 1/4" long 12"extension and snap-on flex sockets for the bearing bolts

[blueldr]

Rebushing a set of original rudder pedals in a helluva lot more work and expense than installing a set of the later model plastic pedals that never wear out.
IMHO,Unless you're a stickler for originality. the plastig pedals look better too.