tailwheel spring installation

[buzzlatka]

I am replacing the tailwheel spring on my 52b with a new one from univair. (univair Part # U170ab). I looked at the parts catalog and bought all the normal nuts and bolts to replace the old ones. I already have the L-19 eyebolt to attach the tailwheel to the spring.

My question is this. In addition to replacing old nuts and bolts, is there any other gotchas I need to be aware of?

I read somewhere about a sharp edge on the leaf spring that needs to be dealt with but couldn't figure out what to do to the edge.

Anyone have a basic gameplan for the replacement. I know the one main bolt that attaches the leaf spring to the tail need to be removed. Also the u bolt and u shaped bracket. Do I need to remove the tailwheel spring retainer part #0510000-31 or will the leafs just slide out?

Thanks

[canav8]

I am replacing the tailwheel spring on my 52b with a new one from univair. (univair Part # U170ab). I looked at the parts catalog and bought all the normal nuts and bolts to replace the old ones. I already have the L-19 eyebolt to attach the tailwheel to the spring.

My question is this. In addition to replacing old nuts and bolts, is there any other gotchas I need to be aware of?

I read somewhere about a sharp edge on the leaf spring that needs to be dealt with but couldn't figure out what to do to the edge.

Anyone have a basic gameplan for the replacement. I know the one main bolt that attaches the leaf spring to the tail need to be removed. Also the u bolt and u shaped bracket. Do I need to remove the tailwheel spring retainer part #0510000-31 or will the leafs just slide out?

Thanks

Buzz there is no magic other then it is better to remove and install the spring stack assembled when installing into the tail bracket. If you are only replacing the main leaf spring only and not the entire stack then the burr that is generally located on the bottom of the leaf spring that is located immediately above the main spring is not a problem. The burr that they are talking about is caused from when they sheer the spring to length, it leaves a small burr. It should be filed flat as to not marr the main spring. This sounds like a rookie statement but "Make sure that the spring stack is all the way seated in the bracket before putting the main bolt in the tail." I have seen guys not seat the spring in the bracket and then loose the tail spring. Also, it is a good idea to check to make sure the clamp the goes around the spring stack is secured with the upper and lower part (2 parts) around the stack. This is to protect the steering chain from getting caught in the bottom side of the stack during operation. That is about all there is. I am sure someone else may chime in but I have done a couple and you might cuss a little getting the stack in but thats all. Good Luck. Doug

[GAHorn]

Good words, Doug!
BAsically, just take a file and/or emory and put a "radius" on the lower/aft edge of the spring just above the mainspring, so as to reduce the possibility of that sharp edge from creating a "stress riser" on the main spring.

When removing the spring stack, relax all those AN3 bolts/nuts on the top plate and remove the U bolt and channel, remove the main attach bolt from beneath, and then slide it all out together. You can then remove the tailwheel from the mainspring. (Of course, the first thing you did was unclip the steering chains.)

Reverse the procedure.

Good words: Consult your Illustrated Parts Catalog before/after to prevent incorrect assembly.

[DaveF]

Put a C-clamp on the spring stack before removal, and again before reinstallation. Then the pack slides in nice and easy. Also, as George said, loosen the AN3 bolts. I posted my observations on this job here and here.

[buzzlatka]

Thanks guys, i'm replacing it in the morning. This really helps.

[buzzlatka]

What a difference a new spring makes! Here you can see the old spring sagging big time and the new spring looking good. I did realize that I put the tension springs and chains on backwards when I took the new pic. They have been corrected.

old spring


New spring

[canav8]

Congrats Buzz!

[Bikini]

I'm about to do that same thing.......I'll take pics..........lets have a contest to see who's was worse.........just wait!!!! ha

Bikini

[richard d miller]

Hi folks I'm new because just purchased a 53'. So how/where do I get the new hardware to put in after I replace my tailwheel spring? I know where to get the AN stuff but the brackets, spacers, bushing etc.? Oh note here: they want 750.00 for the 0510000-36 bushing. Luckily it wasn't in stock.....and no luck finding any of the stuff with Cessna numbers..... Thx much

[richard d miller]

Hey guys.... two quotes for the 051000-36 bushing: 850.00???? Univair and Cessna.........

[sfarringer]

Are you replacing that bushing because it is severely worn, or just because?
I would only replace that bushing if the condition warranted it.

[lowNslow]

Hey guys.... two quotes for the 051000-36 bushing: 850.00???? Univair and Cessna.........

I'm guessing that it is standard 3/8"ID x 1/2" OD bushing material. You should be able to find this online or at a bearing shop.

[GAHorn]

Unless you've lost that bushing I can't imagine needing to replace it. There is virtually no wear that occurs on it.

[Kyle Wolfe]

Saw this on the super cub site. Sounds as though the developer is working on the STC.

http://www.supercub.org/forum/showthrea ... Suspension

[n2582d]

For those of us not members on the Supercub website I'm guessing this is the picture we can't view. I also see the horizontal stab attach fitting that Bill is needing there!