Do it yourself upholstery

[pdb]

I finally have to redo the seats in my 170b. I have been looking at the Airtex kits and wanted to know if there are any do it yourself books that will give me an idea of what I am getting into. I only need to do the front seats.

Is this a job I can do in a weekend?

Any tips will be appreciated.

[GAHorn]

It can be done in a weekend provided you spent two other previous weekends preparing.
You'll spend one weekend disassembling, inspecting, removing fabric from sidewall panels, etc.
You'll spend another cleaning up seat frames, painting them and doorposts, etc., repairing sidewall panels, inventory-ing hardware, shopping for miscellaneous items.
You'll spend another (full) weekend laying out, cutting, glueing, stiching, etc.
You'll spend another day reinstalling.
You'll spend the next week commiserating how you should have installed new intercom wiring and passenger reading lights, and wishing you'd gone ahead and maybe done the seat rails.
But you'll be so glad you did it right if you plan all this in advance.

[doakes]

I used Airtex for my seats and they worked out fine.
They do not look as good as if I had taken them to a shop and done a custom job but for the money they work and look ok. It did not take too long to do. Inspect our seats and paint them before re assembly.
Dave

[zero.one.victor]

I like the Airtex kits except for the prices-- "chair upholstery" kit for the 170 lists at $700,per a recent Airtex ad in TAP. Don't forget to add 25% for premium material!
I went a different route-- I bought a set (pair) of blanket-type seat covers for (universal) bucket seats at a local automotive shop,in a brown color combination that was a pretty good match for my existing upholstery. Everything except the front seats was in pretty good shape.
I ended up cutting each one-piece seat cover into a separate bottom & back. The bottoms fit pretty good as is,but the backs required some sewing machine work. They came out looking pretty good, I thought,and the price was right-- 20 bucks plus some time.

Eric

[DensityDog]

20 BUCKS?? Now I KNOW I saw you digging for coins under your seats!

[pdb]

I ended up cutting each one-piece seat cover into a separate bottom & back. The bottoms fit pretty good as is,but the backs required some sewing machine work. They came out looking pretty good, I thought,and the price was right-- 20 bucks plus some time.

Eric

Thanks guys, the $20 price range was what I was looking for. I will try my hand at customizing an off the shelf one before I go whole hog on the Airtex.

[doakes]

Please remember that using off the shelf material must have fire retardent to be FAA approved.
Just a thought that might save you later headache if you are ramp checked.
Dave

[zero.one.victor]

20 BUCKS?? Now I KNOW I saw you digging for coins under your seats!

Max,what you didn't see was me digging for coins under YOUR seats! I love those 170 lunch get-togethers! When's the next one?-- there's a few other upgrades I need to fund!

Eric

[zero.one.victor]

Pete, like I said,the bottom part of the seat cover fit pretty well as is. The top (seatback) was too squared off & too big,so what I did was to turn the cover inside out & lay it on a table blanket-side up. Then removed the seatback from the airplane seat,and laid it on the inside-out cover padding side down. Then traced around the seat back. I ran a double row of stitching along that outline on the inside-out blanket cover,then trimmed off the excess material,turned the cover right-side out again,& slid it onto the seat back. I just went slow & easy,& it turned out pretty good. The hardest part was not sewing my fingers to the work! The seat-covers I bought were "Saddleman" brand,part number 08352-02, but any universal bucket-seat covers ought to work. Good luck with it.

Eric

[GAHorn]

Please remember that using off the shelf material must have fire retardent to be FAA approved.
Just a thought that might save you later headache if you are ramp checked.
Dave

I've never noticed any FAA types carrying burn-test tools during a ramp check, but I've only been ramp checked once in 35 years of flying. I'd landed in 300' overcast and 3/4 mile at AUS in my 206 to pick up a clients Baron and taxi it across the field to take him somewhere. As I taxiied up, I saw the gentleman with a black name-badge and clipboard standing on the ramp. I tried to ignore him as I was running a bit late, but he walked up to me as I unlocked the Baron and said, "Are you about to go flying?" When I said Yes, he asked if I minded if he did the check. I tried to sound calm but replied, "No, if it doesn't take long because I've got a departure across the field waiting for me."
"It shouldn't take but a minute", he said. "May I see your pilots license, medical certificate, and the airplanes registration and airworthiness?"
At that moment my heart probably stopped. It suddenly occurred to me that it was August 1st, and I'd overlooked the annual was due on my airplane in July.
"Which airplane, the Baron?" (The one I was "about to go flying.")
He pointed to my 206. "Do you have the maintenance logs on board the airplane?" *
"No", I said and retrieved the airworthiness and reg. certs from it's holders.
He looked at them, at my license and medical, and thanked me. "Have a safe flight", he said as he walked away.

* Never carry your mx logs onboard if you intend to be ramp checked.

[doakes]

George,
I never have been ramp checked either.
I know of one who did and was sited for not having the carpet in the airplane to be fire rated. The FAA must have not liked him or something.
My only concerned is that if it did happen if an individual was in an accident involving a fire, someone got hurt, would insurance pay off?? I do not know, but why take the chance. If one is going to do the $20 deal great -but at least make it of the fire rated material.
Have a great day
Dave

[GAHorn]

You're absolutely correct, Dave! I didn't mean to imply the rule wasn't important and I'm glad you mentioned it.
The rule is expecially lax with reqard to these older Part 91 airplanes anyway, as it only requires a horizontal burn test. (When Bill did my interior he went so far as to fire-block it!)
Anyway, for those unfamiliar with burn tests, it's a simple matter to have performed and you can virtually guarantee a good test if you use natural materials and stay away from synthetics. Wool and leather are great materials without any special treatment at all.

[DensityDog]

20 BUCKS?? Now I KNOW I saw you digging for coins under your seats!

Max,what you didn't see was me digging for coins under YOUR seats! I love those 170 lunch get-togethers! When's the next one?-- there's a few other upgrades I need to fund!

Eric

Well Eric, I'm sure my aircraft is now coin-free if you have been through it! I'll be over at AWO Friday A.M. snooping for spare change....

[AR Dave]

I finally got my first lower 48 biannual. It was good and we both learned a lot. The instructor said that after many yrs he had gotten ramped checked a couple of weeks ago at our airport. He told me to remember AROW or ARROW which I never forget anyway. I just never remember what it stands for! So what's on the list?

A - Airworthiness
R - Registration
R - Used to be Radio, but N/A now!
O - Operators Manual?
W- Weight & Balance

License and 3rd Class Medical (which is every 3 yrs unless, as I found out, you're over 40 yrs old which is 2 yrs).

Leave maintenance logs at home!

Has that got it?

[zero.one.victor]

Dave, "O" stands for operating limitations,which is NOT the same as the owner's manual,at least for our airplanes. The Assn used to offer an operating limitations sheet.
Just checked my list of Assn 337 copies available--the operating limitations sheet I refer to is listed under "flight manual" ( actually, the proper name is "approved flight manual") and there is a seperate one for each 170 model.

Eric