Hard to Pull Fuel Primer (Primer rebuild or overhaul)
Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
Hard to Pull Fuel Primer (Primer rebuild or overhaul)
This may have been a past topic, but if it was I couldn't find it. It's winter here in NE Oregon and and we're finally beginning to have a "normal" winter with temps in and around zero (I know that's a warming trend for you all up in AK). The last few flights in this colder weather I have had a heck of time getting the primer pulled out for the first time (the subsequent pulls are a bit easier). I was going to work it over with WD 40, but thought you folks up north may have a better "fix" to help make the primer pull a bit easier in cold weather.
It probably could use a disassembly and rebuild. Parker fuel-lube is a good fuel-proof lubricant, but it's expensive, and you'll only need a "dab". Check with your local mechanic and see if he'll let you swipe your finger thru his can of fuel lube.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
- Bruce Fenstermacher
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- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:24 am
I've been battling this problem for a few months now even in warm weather.
It all started when I replaced the shot O rings with new. Worked great for a week then I couldn't get primer out. Thought I might have put the wrong kind of o rings in and they swelled so I replaced them. And this time I put some fuel lube on them, because what the heck, it couldn't hurt. About month later I could get the primer open.
At this point I gave up and I didn't need the primer as the engine started without it. About a month ago I decided it was getting cold and I'd need that primer so I went to a different A&P with stock of o-rings. I told him my story and when I mentioned fuel lube he said that was probably the problem as it was to thick in his opinion.
I cleaned out the primer tube and replaced the o-rings and just used a small dab of DC-4. It's been fine for the last 2 months.
It all started when I replaced the shot O rings with new. Worked great for a week then I couldn't get primer out. Thought I might have put the wrong kind of o rings in and they swelled so I replaced them. And this time I put some fuel lube on them, because what the heck, it couldn't hurt. About month later I could get the primer open.
At this point I gave up and I didn't need the primer as the engine started without it. About a month ago I decided it was getting cold and I'd need that primer so I went to a different A&P with stock of o-rings. I told him my story and when I mentioned fuel lube he said that was probably the problem as it was to thick in his opinion.
I cleaned out the primer tube and replaced the o-rings and just used a small dab of DC-4. It's been fine for the last 2 months.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Thanks for your Responses
Thanks for the information gentlemen, I'll get the hanger heated up the next few days and I'll let you know how things go with the primer...One other thing that I've noticed this winter is that my tack jumps 100-150 RPMs the first 10-15 minutes after I start it up, but settles down after that time....I'm thinking that it to is cold and warms up after abit (like the pilot). The last two winters I've had this airplane were not this cold and I did not see this jumping in the RPMs...does anyone else see this....
yup, Fuel Lube + cold = peanut butter glue
use DC-4 (Dow Corning 4 dielectric grease) on the orings and you'll be fine, your mechanic should have some since that's what you use on oil filter gaskets to prevent seizing
you could maybe use some light lube, like LPS-1, but it will shortly wash off in the fuel and you're back to square uno
use DC-4 (Dow Corning 4 dielectric grease) on the orings and you'll be fine, your mechanic should have some since that's what you use on oil filter gaskets to prevent seizing
you could maybe use some light lube, like LPS-1, but it will shortly wash off in the fuel and you're back to square uno
'56 "C170 and change"
'52 Packard 200
'68 Arctic Cat P12 Panther
"He's a menace to everything in the air. Yes, birds too." - Airplane
'52 Packard 200
'68 Arctic Cat P12 Panther
"He's a menace to everything in the air. Yes, birds too." - Airplane
- Bruce Fenstermacher
- Posts: 10327
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:24 am
No Dale it is very simple.
1. Turn off the main fuel valve.
2. At the base of the primer there is a knurled round nut. This is the part that has the slot that you have to line up in order to pull out the primer.
Turn this nut counter clock wise until it is loose. pulling out the primer will assist this operation.
3. With a rag handy under the primer, pull the nut and the primer all the way out. The rag is to catch the small amount of fuel in the primer.
Caution. If you didn't shut of the fuel or your main fuel valve doesn't work, fuel may start to flow through the primer into your aircraft cabin. If this is the case quickly reinsert the primer.
4. Replace the o-rings if you want then lube with the desired substance.
5. Look inside the primer tube. If there is gunk in there clean it out with a rolled up rag.
6. Reinsert the primer.
7. Tighten the knurled nut finger tight.
8. Turn your main fuel back on.
Total time assuming your knurled nut spins off easily and you don't replace the 0-rings should be about a minute.
1. Turn off the main fuel valve.
2. At the base of the primer there is a knurled round nut. This is the part that has the slot that you have to line up in order to pull out the primer.
Turn this nut counter clock wise until it is loose. pulling out the primer will assist this operation.
3. With a rag handy under the primer, pull the nut and the primer all the way out. The rag is to catch the small amount of fuel in the primer.
Caution. If you didn't shut of the fuel or your main fuel valve doesn't work, fuel may start to flow through the primer into your aircraft cabin. If this is the case quickly reinsert the primer.
4. Replace the o-rings if you want then lube with the desired substance.
5. Look inside the primer tube. If there is gunk in there clean it out with a rolled up rag.
6. Reinsert the primer.
7. Tighten the knurled nut finger tight.
8. Turn your main fuel back on.
Total time assuming your knurled nut spins off easily and you don't replace the 0-rings should be about a minute.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
- Bruce Fenstermacher
- Posts: 10327
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:24 am
In the 170B IPC figure 37 item 11. Looking under Item 11 which is the primer there is an o-ring listed.
It is a AN6227-7 which is also an MS28775-012.
You will need 2 of them and they should cost a little over a half dollar a piece.
It is a AN6227-7 which is also an MS28775-012.
You will need 2 of them and they should cost a little over a half dollar a piece.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
- Bruce Fenstermacher
- Posts: 10327
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:24 am
While it could be a different o-ring but I'd bet not. One reason only one was listed is they may all be the same.
I have 3 different primers on hand, the one in the picture which I think by the knob is from a later 170B, the one in my 170 which has an aluminum knob with Koelher stamped and another Koelher I bought and installed in my Cub.
These all use the same o-ring.
I have 3 different primers on hand, the one in the picture which I think by the knob is from a later 170B, the one in my 170 which has an aluminum knob with Koelher stamped and another Koelher I bought and installed in my Cub.
These all use the same o-ring.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com