PROP GUARD
Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
PROP GUARD
Have any of you purchased the Prop Guard leading edge tape from McFarlane or other sources? If so have you been satisfied with the results? Alternates to this product?
OLE POKEY
170C
Director:
2012-2018
170C
Director:
2012-2018
Hi Frank,
I have Prop Guard on my 172 and am quite pleased with it. There are a couple of issues however. First, it will not stick to spray can paint. Your prop should be painted with epoxy paint (including the tips) recommended by the prop manufacturer. Second, it is there to protect the prop as a sacrificial layer. If you fly in and out of rough strips you will have to replace the tape as some debris impacts will penetrate the tape. Many people think that when you install it that you won't have to touch it again but that is not normally the case and they end up disappointed.
Hope this helps!
I have Prop Guard on my 172 and am quite pleased with it. There are a couple of issues however. First, it will not stick to spray can paint. Your prop should be painted with epoxy paint (including the tips) recommended by the prop manufacturer. Second, it is there to protect the prop as a sacrificial layer. If you fly in and out of rough strips you will have to replace the tape as some debris impacts will penetrate the tape. Many people think that when you install it that you won't have to touch it again but that is not normally the case and they end up disappointed.
Hope this helps!
Happy Flying,
Mark
1958 Cessna 172 N9153B
Mark
1958 Cessna 172 N9153B
-
- Posts: 3485
- Joined: Sat May 06, 2006 6:05 pm
Frank-
I have had the same experiences with prop guard as Mark noted when used on the prop. It's good stuff but not permanent. 50 hours was about all I could get out of an application but it beats chewing up a prop with sand and gravel.
The most effective use I've found for it is to protect the insides of the cowling anywhere the baffle seals touch it.
I use the red silicon baffle seals with the nylon ply and they are a little stiffer and tend to rub on the cowl more agressively than other materials. They are also more effective in sealing and that's why I use it.
If you see shiny metal inside the cowl where the seals rub, eventually there will be loss of metal enough to see and could rub thru if left unattended.
Prop gard will absolutely stop the cowling erosion due to the baffle seals and it wears like iron. I have never had to replace any of it after years of service.
To install, just clean/rub the cowl where the tape is to be applied really well with a rag and M.E.K. until you stop seeing black on the rag. Let it air dry, apply the prop guard, and press/rub it down firmly with a smooth blunt tool over the entire area to bond the mastic to the metal. You can clearly see where it has bonded. No more erosion.
It also works great on the leading edges of the landing gear.
I have had the same experiences with prop guard as Mark noted when used on the prop. It's good stuff but not permanent. 50 hours was about all I could get out of an application but it beats chewing up a prop with sand and gravel.
The most effective use I've found for it is to protect the insides of the cowling anywhere the baffle seals touch it.
I use the red silicon baffle seals with the nylon ply and they are a little stiffer and tend to rub on the cowl more agressively than other materials. They are also more effective in sealing and that's why I use it.
If you see shiny metal inside the cowl where the seals rub, eventually there will be loss of metal enough to see and could rub thru if left unattended.
Prop gard will absolutely stop the cowling erosion due to the baffle seals and it wears like iron. I have never had to replace any of it after years of service.
To install, just clean/rub the cowl where the tape is to be applied really well with a rag and M.E.K. until you stop seeing black on the rag. Let it air dry, apply the prop guard, and press/rub it down firmly with a smooth blunt tool over the entire area to bond the mastic to the metal. You can clearly see where it has bonded. No more erosion.
It also works great on the leading edges of the landing gear.
Last edited by hilltop170 on Sat Aug 25, 2007 9:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Richard Pulley
2014-2016 TIC170A Past President
1951 170A, N1715D, s/n 20158, O-300D
2023 Best Original 170A at Sault Ste. Marie
Owned from 1973 to 1984.
Bought again in 2006 after 22 years.
It's not for sale!
2014-2016 TIC170A Past President
1951 170A, N1715D, s/n 20158, O-300D
2023 Best Original 170A at Sault Ste. Marie
Owned from 1973 to 1984.
Bought again in 2006 after 22 years.
It's not for sale!
Just to add a little perspective to Richard's comments, I have repaired my Prop Guard on the tips twice and replaced all of it only once in seven years (450 hours). Keep in mind the first six years I had a nose gear, and I fly off of paved or grass strips almost exclusively.
Happy Flying,
Mark
1958 Cessna 172 N9153B
Mark
1958 Cessna 172 N9153B
-
- Posts: 3485
- Joined: Sat May 06, 2006 6:05 pm
Mark-
I didn't really qualify my comments. Beach landings and bush strips in Alaska are a little harder on things. It was also on a C-180 with a long 86" prop turning 2700rpm = high tip speeds = faster erosion. Prop gauard did pretty well considering, and it DID save the prop.
I didn't really qualify my comments. Beach landings and bush strips in Alaska are a little harder on things. It was also on a C-180 with a long 86" prop turning 2700rpm = high tip speeds = faster erosion. Prop gauard did pretty well considering, and it DID save the prop.
Richard Pulley
2014-2016 TIC170A Past President
1951 170A, N1715D, s/n 20158, O-300D
2023 Best Original 170A at Sault Ste. Marie
Owned from 1973 to 1984.
Bought again in 2006 after 22 years.
It's not for sale!
2014-2016 TIC170A Past President
1951 170A, N1715D, s/n 20158, O-300D
2023 Best Original 170A at Sault Ste. Marie
Owned from 1973 to 1984.
Bought again in 2006 after 22 years.
It's not for sale!