Tailwheels

Watkinsnv · Post by **Watkinsnv** » Thu Jan 23, 2003 6:15 am

My Scott 3200 tailwheel is tired, rebuilt and during a large windstorm fractured its mounting bracket. Due to heavy side loads. A friend of mine had a used one that I was going to merge the two into one but it was fractured and all the same parts are worn out. So it looks like its time to order a new one. Has anyone installed a Maule tailwheel? Do you like it? I just want to explore all the possibilities before I pay the big bucks.

Lance

Dave Clark · Post by **Dave Clark** » Thu Jan 23, 2003 1:09 pm

Buy the Scott

flyer170 · Post by **flyer170** » Thu Jan 23, 2003 1:55 pm

Buy the Scott
Bob

derf62 · Post by **derf62** » Thu Jan 23, 2003 4:05 pm

BUY THE SCOTT!!!!!

zero.one.victor · Post by **zero.one.victor** » Thu Jan 23, 2003 5:28 pm

A couple of friends have or had them on Pacers & they worked well,but I've never heard of anyone having any luck using them on a 170. Bite the bullet & buy a Scott. Yo can buy just the bracket,p/n 3216,my older Spruce catalog sez $180. But then ya got any other worn-out parts to buy,too--better off buying a new complete tailwheel ($520!!!) & keep the old one for parts or trading stock.
It might be all that's worn out is the notches in the steering arm--you can buy a 3214T arm,my Univair price list sez $115.

Eric

N170BP · Post by **N170BP** » Thu Jan 23, 2003 6:29 pm

If you're going to rebuild the Scott or buy new, check
prices at Sacramento Sky Ranch (http://www.sacskyranch.com).

"Tailwheel Tommy" (at XP Mods) also has Scott parts.
If you want new, make sure you specify such as he might send
you something used that has been bead-blasted and re-cad
plated. XP Mods #'s: Cell 509-670-3677, 509-886-1162 wk,
1-800-819-9270. Cell is best. E-mail is xpmod@tgi.net

You might want to upgrade to the "BirdDog" steering arm,
which is a part # 3214T. This arm is heavier duty and
has the 90 degree up-turned ends (where the cables attach).

Bela P. Havasreti
'54 C-170B N170BP

funseventy · Post by **funseventy** » Thu Jan 23, 2003 8:42 pm

A brand new Maule will shimmy right out of the box.

Buy a Scott, it is impressive how good you'll feel walking past that new tailwheel!! You don't believe me? Buy one and prove me wrong!!

Kelly

zero.one.victor · Post by **zero.one.victor** » Fri Jan 24, 2003 1:41 am

I seem to recall seeing a comment by someone that you can buy a new 3200 tailwheel with the good,heavy-duty (3214T) arm already on it. It is then called a 3200-A or something like that. Seems like a bummer to spend over 500 bucks on a tailwheel,and then having to spend another hundred for the good arm. The stock arm (p/n 3214,no "T") is much lighter duty,and real easy to bend the arms of.
I'd check into that if you buy a new Scott. If ya want to go with a big (10") or wide tailwheel,talk to Tailwheel Tommy,he sells several different models. Very knowledgable guy about both tailwheels and gear legs.

Eric

JDH · Post by **JDH** » Fri Jan 24, 2003 1:05 pm

Eric, you are right, it is a 3200-A. When I bought my 3200 a couple of years ago, the straight arms kept folding (from tension on the chains); twice in a row. Scott people could not understand and it turned out they did not know that the metal had changed to an alloy, from steel (old one). I did end up changing this new 3200 into a 3200-A with the up-turned arms. Cost me more and lots of time and frustration figuring out all the parts (the folks at Scott were very nice but only found one lady that knew what she was talking about). Then I had to go to 3 sources for the parts... So, go for the 3200-A right off the bat, it is the same price as the 3200. It is definitely beefier and improves the angle of steering chains, combined with the eyebolts, you almost end up having a steerable tail wheel... JD

pdb · Post by **pdb** » Sat Jan 25, 2003 5:11 am

So, go for the 3200-A right off the bat, it is the same price as the 3200.

Respect your elders, listen to the wisdom of the ages, "Buy the Scott."

Watkinsnv · Post by **Watkinsnv** » Sat Jan 25, 2003 6:45 am

OK A 3200-A Scott It Is!

Lance

(update) Hold on Aircraft Spruce has the 3200-A at $633.00! I have an mail in to XPMODS about his 10" tail wheel. For the cost and availability STC or field approvals on the 170B. Any information would be helpful. I have 180 gear & a birddog rear spring, so I want to explore the larger tail wheel before placing an order for the 3200-A. Anyone know of a lower current price on the Scott 3200-A.

N170BP · Post by **N170BP** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 7:32 am

Again, check with Sacramento Skyranch. Here's the web-site
http://www.sacskyranch.com/
but call them to check stock for sure.

When I was faced with the rebuild of the 3200 unit on my 170,
about $540 was the best price I could find, and if I'm not
mistaken (age/memory comes into play here), that was from
Sacramento Sky Ranch. I ended up buying parts from XP Mods
and rebuilding my existing 3200.

I suppose it's not kosher to bash Aircraft Spurce on this list but
they're the last place I'll look to for parts... (long story, maybe
other folks have had better luck and/or found better prices
with them.... All I can say is I haven't.....).

Bela P. Havasreti
'54 C-170B N170BP

N3243A · Post by **N3243A** » Mon Jan 27, 2003 5:09 am

It's a myth that the Scott 3214T heavy duty steering arm improves the steering geometry. It actually reduces your steering effectiveness slightly. The arm length from the center of tailwheel head rotation is longer than the regular arm resulting in a less net tailwheel rotation per given stroke by the rudder chains (the shorter the steering arm the more movement). As for the upturned arms of the 3214T bringing the rudder chains more horizontal resulting in more efficient steering, I think if you draw it out, the net change is about 3 or 4 degrees, almost negligible. The 3214T's big claim to fame is it's just stronger. Much larger improvments in steering geometry can be had by fabricating a rudder bellcrank extension as per float equipped 170's that do it so that the float rudders get more throw. It also gives your tailwheel more throw (rotation per given rudder input).

Bruce Christie
'53 170B, N3243A

zero.one.victor · Post by **zero.one.victor** » Mon Jan 27, 2003 6:53 am

Bela,sounds like you had a bad experience with Spruce in the past. That's too bad. I know another guy who has had problems with them every time he's ever tried to buy something there. On the other hand,I've never had anything but good,prompt service from Spruce.Go figure.
Bruce,is the extended rudder bellcrank a manufactured part froma supplier,or is it a build-it-yourself show? And is it an approved mod,for either floats or wheels?
I've seen one case of the 3214T arm being drilled on the horizontal part of the arm (closer to the center) for a steering chain attach point. Your observation about arm length from center of rotation explains why they did it. Makes sense.
I actually don't have much of a problem with the way my 170 steers on the ground--sometimes it needs a little help from the brakes,but that's OK. It works for me!

Eric

JDH · Post by **JDH** » Mon Jan 27, 2003 2:14 pm

Bruce, you are right, the biggest advantage of the 3214-T is that it has alot more beef to it and is still made of steel, whereas the 3214 is made of alloy (put a magnet on it). With the 3200-A and the eyebolts, new tail springs and a proper alignment and rebuilt brakes (incl. master cylinders) it tracks alot better than before. Not enough ponies on the nose and a heavy tail is main reason why the 170 is not a great steering airplane; it takes alot of ground speed before the rudder becomes effective.
I just finished installing the bellcrank extension, yesterday. Today, I am putting on my Flylite tail wheel penetration ski on and finishing the manufacturing of the ski lift for my 3500's (yep, go big or stay home...), for ground handling, before installing the skis. Too dang cold to fly for another couple of days, so, time to get prepared for the good times... JD